creating an instruction & maintenance manual |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
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Topic: creating an instruction & maintenance manual Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 11:20am |
Winterization
Original discussion thread: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=846&title=winterization
Updated 10/19/2015 at the suggestion of Q7-retired, a few steps have been reversed
1) Open both low-point drains underneath the camper. These usually hang down along the left edge under the floor. You will need two crescent wrenches, or equivalent - one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lower nut. 2) Open the hot and cold valves on the kitchen sink, then remove the anode rod plug on the hot water heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure. Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years). The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it with antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the water heater tank. If you don't need to inspect your anode rod you can pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater to speed up the draining process (some people do not recommend doing this due to a fear of damaging it, but others do it all the time w/o a problem). Insert the anode rod, using a layer of teflon tape on the threads. 3) Turn all 3 bypass valves on the hot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back of the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where the water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lines will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open). 4) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection. This has an air inlet on one end like the Schrader valves on your tires, and threads to attach to the water connection. Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs. Apply LOW pressure air (less than 20 psi) until the low-point drains stop sputtering. Close the low-point drains finger-tight. 5) Open each valve inside the camper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it. Don't forget the toilet and shower. Remove the blow-out plug. If your camper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to this connection for several seconds using the blow-out plug. 6) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the water pump (on the 171 its the same location as the water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. A few model years did not include this at all, later models don't have the valve and you must remove the intake hose to attach the antifreeze pick-up hose. If you don't have one you can buy the pick-up hose from any dealer. Flip the valve and put the loose end into your jug of PINK RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE ORANGE OR GREEN AUTO ANTIFREEZE). The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreeze instead of your fresh water tank. 7) Turn on the switch for the water pump. 8) Turn on the taps at the sink and in the shower, one at a time. Let each run until the water is the color of your antifreeze (pink), then close it. 9) Run the toilet until the water is pink. Flush what comes out at first, but leave some of the pure antifreeze in the bowl for the winter. 10) Open the low-point drains again, let them run until you see pink. Close them tightly. 11) Pull the hose out of the antifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any more antifreeze. Turn on the sink again for a second or two until the antifreeze is out of the intake line. This keeps the sticky antifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intake completely out of the bottle. 12) Close the valve near the water pump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off the power for the water pump. 13) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it to empty. 14) Pour some RV antifreeze into the shower and sink drains to fill the water traps. 15) Make sure the black and gray waste water tanks are empty. The last dump of the season fill both tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once. 16) Set the fridge's door latch so it stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, you can slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays open enough to prevent mold from growing. Or just hang a hand towl over the door so it won't close. 17) Open the lower fridge vent and look for the white drip cup. It can be removed by pulling it towards you. Empty and replace. (thanks to Marwayne for that tip) 18) Remove the 9 volt batteries from the smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery is disconnected. (thanks to dsmiths for that tip) Edit: adding a link here to a video kymooses created on this process: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4136
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:57am |
Appliance energy useage
Original discussion thread: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1309&title=measured-wattage-of-pod-appliances
These numbers can be useful when you are plugged into a 20 amp outlet, or even a 30 amp outlet. Wattage equals volts times amps, so you need to keep your total useage below 2400 watts on a 20 amp outlet and 3600 watts on a 30 amp outlet. So for instance if you are on a 20 amp outlet you would be pushing it to have your water heater electric element on along with the A/C, plus a few lights, and the baseline amount that the converter uses at all times.
First number is Wh, the second is VA.
- Converter only, battery fully charged: no measurement (so something less than 100 watts)
- A/C, fan and compressor running: 1000/1100 - Water heater, electric element: 1300/1300 - Fridge, in AC mode: 200/200 - Microwave: 1700/1800 - Every light on: 200/400 - Exhaust fan, low: no measurement - Exhaust fan, medium: 100/100 - Exhaust fan, high: 100/100 - Water pump: 100/200 I forgot to measure the microwave's convection mode, and while I measured the A/C with the fan only I forgot to write it down. I didn't try to measure the television since it is probably less than 30 watts. Obviously the lack of accuracy prevented good numbers on the exhaust fan - someone found the factory-claimed amps for the 3 settings a while ago. Some things are running through the converter (lights, fan, pump) so there are conversion losses as part of the numbers. Edited 9/5/12 to add this link, with much more accurate amp readings @ 12 volts. http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2898&title=electrical-current-draw |
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:43am |
Brake Controllers
Original discussion thread: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1685&title=brake-controllers
There are two types of brake controller used for camper trailers today. The cheap timer-based controllers usually sold to new trailer owners gradually apply the maximum amount of brakes that you have set (from none to locked-up) after a given amount of time. They don't care how much brake pressure you apply. These require constant adjustment of the maximum braking based on traffic conditions.
The newest generation of brake controllers have an intertia sensor. They apply a proportionate amount of braking pressure based on how hard you are braking your vehicle, up to a maximum amount you've set. These rarely require adjustment unless you change to a different trailer (or you have a utility trailer with a variable load). There is one more braking system, but this is built into some trailers and there is no controller in the tow vehicle. They will have an inertia system on the tongue and they apply hydraulic pressure to the brakes. I believe this is usually only found on boat trailers now. I recommend the inertia brake controllers. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy but they have several to choose from now. I towed for years with the older timer style controller and the first time I used the Prodigy I had a V8 moment - hand to forehead and saying "I should have bought one long ago". The difference in braking quality was night and day. If you are a handyman type you can install them yourself. You just need to run a +12 line and negative line from the battery (with a circuit breaker), then find a place to tap into the brake light switch. Finally there is an output wire which needs to run back to the Bargeman connector. You should use high-gauge wire for the +12 line (red) and the output (blue) line. Ten or eight gauge wire is best, you can use 12 or 14 gauge wire for the negative (black) line and brake light wires. |
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:11am |
Axle Risers
Original discussion thread: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1410&title=axle-risers
You can order axle risers as an option from the factory, or have them added post-delivery by your dealer, or you can add them yourself. Many people have found that the R-pod sits too low to the ground and can bottom out on the stabilizer jacks or steps. Adding axle risers raises the whole R-pod approximately 4 inches and eliminates this problem. If you order them from the factory, installed, expect to pay about $100. If you have your dealer install them expect to pay at least twice that. You can order them directly from Forest River for about $75 (someone recently said they now cost $50), just call 574-642-3119 ext 209. They come as two metal boxes which need to be inserted between the axle and the frame of the R-pod, about 8 inches long and 4 inches wide. Additional bolts are included. If you do them yourself you'll need a heavy-duty floor jack and 4 jack stands, expect the job to take about 45 minutes.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:01am |
De-winterization
Original discussion thread: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1634&title=dewinterizing-checklist
A later discussion had me come up with these steps for flushing and sanitizing the water system:
Flushing the system by using the city water connection won't clear out the water pump, you also don't want to send any antifreeze or bleach into the water heater. First change into clothes that you don't care about, then: 1. Fill the fresh water tank, adding 1/2 cup of bleach during the fill process.
2. Open 1 of the low-point drains, turn on the pump until it runs clear, turn the pump off, close the drain (turn the pump off first or you will spray yourself with bleach water trying to get the cap on).
3. Open the other low-point drain, pump on, run clear, pump off, close the drain.
4. Pump on. All the remaining steps assume you keep the valves open until they run clear.
5. Hold the toilet flush valve open.
6. Open the shower cold valve, close, then do the hot water side. Don't do both at the same time, you won't know if one has run clear and the other hasn't. If your pod has the mini-sink in the shower, do the same with it.
7. Do the same with the kitchen sink.
8. If you've added any other water connection (I added an outside shower), do the same with it.
9. Turn off the pump.
10. Top off the fresh water tank.
11. Wait at least 3 hours, preferrably overnight. You now have bleach in every possible nook which will sanitize the system.
After 3 hours or the next day:
1. Drain the fresh water tank using the drain hole on the bottom.
2. Refill the tank.
3. Repeat steps 4-9 from the last checklist (I would skip the low-point drains, but you may not want to), waiting about the same time on each valve that you did when you were waiting for the pink to disappear.
4. You may want to repeat steps 1-3 once or twice more, I don't. I let the remaining bleach odor just work its way out during the first trip of the season.
5. Now change the valves on the water heater - hot and cold lines parallel to the water pipe, the valve in the middle perpendicular.
6. Open the hot water valve on the kitchen sink. Wait for the air sputtering to stop. Your water heater is now full. I would let it run another minute to flush it out.
7. Either top off or drain the remaining water in the fresh water tank as desired.
Seems like a lot of steps, but the "day 1" checklist only takes 10-15 minutes. "Day 2" is maybe 15-20 depending on how many times you rinse the system.
[All that said, I plan on cheating this year. The RV antifreeze is in the alcohol family (which is why it doesn't freeze), so everything but the fresh water tank should be sanitized already. I drain my fresh water tank and the feed line to the pump just as much as possible in the fall so I'll probably just fill it, clear out all the antifreeze in the pump and water lines using that water, and then drain it. There's little opportunity for something to grow in the tank and certainly no way for it to grow in the water lines.] - Make sure the tire pressure is at the max pressure shown on the sidewall of the tire.
- Grease your wheel bearings if necessary. Official word is do this every year, with the few miles put on every year I usually go 2-3.
- Refill propane tank if necessary.
- Reinstall battery if you kept it elsewhere over the winter (storage outside on the tongue is fine and can actually extend the life of the battery as long as you charge it twice over the winter).
- Add chemicals as necessary to the black tank, filling with several gallons of water.
- Check/replace the batteries in the smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector.
- Hook up the Bargman connector to your car and check all exterior lights.
- Check caulk and seals around windows, clearance lights, roof, etc.
- Check the torque of the wheels (and again several times throughout the season), aluminum and alloy wheels tend to expand and contract more than steel wheels causing the lug nuts to loosen over time.
- Lube the tongue jack, stabilizer jacks, stair steps, door hinges, etc.
- Repair paint chips with Rustolium semi-gloss black comes in handy for touching up chips on the tongue, frame and steps.
- Clean the coil on the A/C unit; unless it is really bad, compressed air or just a garden hose should do the trick.
- Clean the interior A/C filter with soap and water.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Pawpod
Senior Member Joined: 10 Jan 2011 Location: Regina Sask Online Status: Offline Posts: 137 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:41am |
Just a thought... Links to online manuals for microwave, tv, Ect..
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Ready to pod around!
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:18pm |
LOL, yeah I get at least twice what you do Terry. 0 x 2 = David's instructions for winterization: Change the valves, put the hose in the bottle, do the rest of the stuff. Everyone else: What valves? What hose? What else do I need to do??? |
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Guests
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Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:01pm |
Great idea!
Let's not give them too much info, though........... I kind of like answering the questions of the new members and those new to camping and travel trailers. I can volunteer to tell the folks how NOT to do a lot of things
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TerryM
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 16 Nov 2009 Location: Saint Augustine Online Status: Offline Posts: 1950 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 5:08pm |
That is why he gets the BIG bucks!
Terry |
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RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4
Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
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Hodge-PODge
Senior Member Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Location: Calhoun, GA Online Status: Offline Posts: 539 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 2:07pm |
Excellent idea, techntrek. I find myself jumping around the forums, thinking, "Now WHERE did I read that?" To compile all that info into one "manual" would really be efficient. Good thinking!
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2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
2011 Mercedes ML350 "A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it." |
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