Dometic Tri-mode Fridge (gas) Fault |
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poohbill
Groupie Joined: 22 Aug 2019 Location: Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 87 |
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Topic: Dometic Tri-mode Fridge (gas) Fault Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 7:32pm |
For the first time ever, the Dometic fridge in our ‘16 179 refused to light. In fact, the fault indicator came on immediately and there was no normal sparker sound. The manual sez to the Authorized Repairman ye shall go, but before those $$$s leave my wallet, I thought it best to check with you.
Anything I should try first? Bill
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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline |
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poston
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 28 Mar 2018 Location: Nevada Online Status: Offline Posts: 195 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 9:05pm |
Let's assume you've got propane because you lit your stove burners. It's not intuitive, but you need 12V for the refrig electronics. Is your battery good? |
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-- Jim Virginia City, Nevada 2016 R-pod 180 2015 Nissan Xterra Pro-4X |
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poohbill
Groupie Joined: 22 Aug 2019 Location: Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 87 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 10:02pm |
Fresh and trailer is connected to shore power. All other gas systems Go.
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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline |
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poston
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 28 Mar 2018 Location: Nevada Online Status: Offline Posts: 195 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 12:04am |
Not to belabor things, and I know I'm not helping much, but being connected to shore power doesn't mean you have 12V - like if your converter has failed (like mine at the moment!) |
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-- Jim Virginia City, Nevada 2016 R-pod 180 2015 Nissan Xterra Pro-4X |
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jato
Senior Member Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Kewadin, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 3221 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 4:26am |
Do you have the means to check your electrolytic capacitors? Recently spoke to a fellow podder with a 177 who ordered some because 2
out of 3 electrolytic capacitors tested poorly on the upper main
board. The main board only briefly sent 1.5V to the burner control
unit so that looked like a real possibility as to why his weren't firing up. Cost for those capacitors is very reasonable, compared to a new motherboard. And yes, poston is absolutely correct. Don't assume you have 12v power until you know you do. The motherboard will not run without it, ask me how I know.
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God's pod
'11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
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hank*pod
Groupie Joined: 06 Oct 2022 Location: PA Online Status: Offline Posts: 61 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 8:35am |
Without 12 volts you won't even get the fault light so it's a safe bet that the fridge is getting 12 volts. I think.
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poohbill
Groupie Joined: 22 Aug 2019 Location: Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 87 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 10:22am |
Not in my skill set, neither the electronics nor the propane regulation/ignition.
My guess is the Fault light is telling of a detected failure of the propane regulation/ignition.
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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline |
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RP177
Newbie Joined: 06 Jun 2023 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 7:11pm |
I'm the guy, mentioned above, that found weak/bad electrolytic capacitors on the main control board of the Dometic 8501 three way fridge. The main control board is on the top front of the fridge behind your buttons that turn it on and change modes. Two of the three capacitors tested bad. I was hoping that by changing these I'd get my igniter to come back to life but unfortunately I had no return of ignition. The caps now test properly after changing them. I've had luck repairing residential refrigerator motherboards by doing this but no luck this time around on the Dometic. I'm extremely apprehensive about gambling $200+ on a 241278930 Burner Control Module because I have read posts where people replaced them and still had no return of ignition. The service manual says to test two wires (pin 6 & 7) going from the main control board to the Burner Control Module (gray little box attached to the back of your fridge accessible from the vent hatch) to see if you have 1.5V powering the module. When I start the fridge, I do have needed 1.5V but only briefly for about 5 seconds at which time the voltage drops off. No voltage ever makes it to the electric gas (turn on) valve and no igniter clicking occurs. I read somewhere that if any change in resistance are detected (by the Burner Control Module) with the igniter itself (due to it being cracked or faulty) or due to damaged wiring to the igniter, then it will not proceed further or move onto opening the gas valve. What the manual does not indicate is whether the 1.5V to pin 6 & 7 should remain on at 1.5V indefinitely as long as the fridge is powered on. I don't know if my voltage is suddenly dropping because it's not passing some sort of an igniter resistance test or if the Main Control Board is dropping the voltage for some reason. I called Dometic and they will not let their techs speak to the general public for liability reasons. So speaking through a middleman operator, I was told that the 1.5V should stay on...I still suspect this is an incorrect statement if the Burner Control Module detects a problem. If anyone has given up on their RM-8501 Dometic for different reasons and you have a spare 241278930 Burner Control Module or even a Main Control Board, I'd love to test it and see if it is the problem with mine. My fridge still works great in 120Vac mode and 12vDC mode. It's still possible that something else could be wrong on the main control board but everything lights up normally and it is sending the proper 1.5V, though briefly, to the burner control module. I don't like to give up on challenges and Dometic has really put the screws to their customers on this one....with the crazy high cost of replacement parts that should be relatively inexpensive, guessing isn't an option. Aftermarket companies make inexpensive boards for most RV fridges but not this one.
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poohbill
Groupie Joined: 22 Aug 2019 Location: Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 87 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 7:48pm |
Thank you for all the advice. We have relied on propane when boondocking, which has been our main use. However, if we can get the door replaced before the season ends and we head out again, we are very comfortable hauling a cooler around wherever power isn't available. Your experience gives me a heads up on shenanigans the shop may try charging to swap parts, so I'll insist on “fixed is fixed" and save what they take out.
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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline |
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RP177
Newbie Joined: 06 Jun 2023 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 8:18pm |
This may sound like a rant but honestly, I'd be nervous bringing this fridge to an RV shop for repairs. I've spoken to so many different people/shops/Dometic about it and I've searched for others with the same fridge/symptoms who successfully repaired it at a reasonable cost. They don't exist. Yes, a few guys have fixed the Dometic RM-8501 by throwing $500-$800 in parts at it but that's not what I consider reasonable. This is really an odd duck fridge that companies like Forest River/Airstream quit using fairly shortly after they began using them here in the US. I suspect it was a thorn in Dometic's butt but there is no excuse for the lack of support they've given over the years on the RM-8501. Most owners just gave up and bought a different fridges altogether. I won't purposely buy a new Dometic fridge after this. After so many years in business, you'd think RV fridge manufacturers could get it right and make reliable 3 way fridges but they are not and never have been. I've owned about 8 different RV's from travel trailers to Mercedes Sprinter RV's and all of them have had fridge issues at some point in time whether they were Dometic or Norcold. Do they purposely build garbage? I think so...planned obsolescence.
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