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Dometic Tri-mode Fridge (gas) Fault

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jato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Dometic Tri-mode Fridge (gas) Fault
    Posted: 30 Jul 2023 at 7:06pm
Well that is great news!  ALL of us on this forum are in the 'learning mode' and hopefully we don't make the same error twice.  My 10 year old RM 8501 died due to an ammonia leak and it was unfixable as far as I knew at the time.  So it was replaced by another RM 8501 in August 2020 at a price of $ 1150 delivered direct to me from FR.  Many complaints have been made concerning this fridge, I guess we have been more than fortunate.  A few mods have been made to the point that with  it running on 4 bars the fridge temp remains at 36-37 when outside ambient temps run 85 - 90.  Back of  fridge has to be facing N. or E. and I also have 3 muffin fans on the rear side to keep the air moving over the cooling fins.  A baffle (using 1/8" luan) was made and has 2 muffin fans just below the upper cooling fin.  The lower fan runs just below the lower cooling fin.  Also the bi-metal switch was moved to within 2" of the chimney so that the fans run sooner and longer than when the switch was left in its original position which was about 6" away, in essence the fans never run when the switch is that far away with a result of having a fridge that doesn't cool worth beans, even in cooler weather.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2023 at 6:28pm
Don't be embarrassed. At least it turned out to just need a reset. Mine totally died which is why I replaced it with a 2-way. I never was happy with the way if cooled (often, failed to cool adequately) in hot weather anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote poohbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2023 at 12:58pm
Update. We tried an old technique, not as old as the Bigger Hammer but as old as electrical switching - push all the buttons; in this case it was the Fault, which I thought was simply a light. It (switch)ed off and the propane indicator stayed on.

I AM embarrassed.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gpokluda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2023 at 9:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RP177 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 8:47pm
I've only heard people suggest replacement 2 way fridges and I'm not aware of a great 3 way option that is the same size.  That's why I've worked so hard to investigate the Dometic RM-8501.  Sorry
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Post Options Post Options   Quote poohbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 8:24pm
May I pick your brain further? If I don't like what I hear from the shop and replacement is on the table, have you found a good candidate? My neighbor just outfitted a boondocking cargo trailer and is experience with gas and 12v electrical. He is willing to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RP177 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 8:18pm
This may sound like a rant but honestly, I'd be nervous bringing this fridge to an RV shop for repairs.  I've spoken to so many different people/shops/Dometic about it and I've searched for others with the same fridge/symptoms who successfully repaired it at a reasonable cost.  They don't exist.  Yes, a few guys have fixed the Dometic RM-8501 by throwing $500-$800 in parts at it but that's not what I consider reasonable.

 This is really an odd duck fridge that companies like Forest River/Airstream quit using fairly shortly after they began using them here in the US.  I suspect it was a thorn in Dometic's butt but there is no excuse for the lack of support they've given over the years on the RM-8501.  Most owners just gave up and bought a different fridges altogether.  I won't purposely buy a new Dometic fridge after this.  After so many years in business, you'd think RV fridge manufacturers could get it right and make reliable 3 way fridges but they are not and never have been.  I've owned about 8 different RV's from travel trailers to Mercedes Sprinter RV's and all of them have had fridge issues at some point in time whether they were Dometic or Norcold.  Do they purposely build garbage?  I think so...planned obsolescence.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote poohbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 7:48pm
Thank you for all the advice. We have relied on propane when boondocking, which has been our main use. However, if we can get the door replaced before the season ends and we head out again, we are very comfortable hauling a cooler around wherever power isn't available. Your experience gives me a heads up on shenanigans the shop may try charging to swap parts, so I'll insist on “fixed is fixed" and save what they take out.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote RP177 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 7:11pm
I'm the guy, mentioned above, that found weak/bad electrolytic capacitors on the main control board of the Dometic 8501 three way fridge.  The main control board is on the top front of the fridge behind your buttons that turn it on and change modes.  Two of the three capacitors tested bad.  I was hoping that by changing these I'd get my igniter to come back to life but unfortunately I had no return of ignition.  The caps now test properly after changing them.  I've had luck repairing residential refrigerator motherboards by doing this but no luck this time around on the Dometic.  I'm extremely apprehensive about gambling $200+ on a 241278930 Burner Control Module because I have read posts where people replaced them and still had no return of ignition.

The service manual says to test two wires (pin 6 & 7) going from the main control board to the Burner Control Module (gray little box attached to the back of your fridge accessible from the vent hatch) to see if you have 1.5V powering the module.  When I start the fridge, I do have needed 1.5V but only briefly for about 5 seconds at which time the voltage drops off.  No voltage ever makes it to the electric gas (turn on) valve and no igniter clicking occurs.

 I read somewhere that if any change in resistance are detected (by the Burner Control Module) with the igniter itself (due to it being cracked or faulty) or due to damaged wiring to the igniter, then it will not proceed further or move onto opening the gas valve.  What the manual does not indicate is whether the 1.5V to pin 6 & 7 should remain on at 1.5V indefinitely as long as the fridge is powered on.  I don't know if my voltage is suddenly dropping because it's not passing some sort of an igniter resistance test or if the Main Control Board is dropping the voltage for some reason.  I called Dometic and they will not let their techs speak to the general public for liability reasons.  So speaking through a middleman operator, I was told that the 1.5V should stay on...I still suspect this is an incorrect statement if the Burner Control Module detects a problem.  

If anyone has given up on their RM-8501 Dometic for different reasons and you have a spare 241278930 Burner Control Module or even a Main Control Board, I'd love to test it and see if it is the problem with mine.  My fridge still works great in 120Vac mode and 12vDC mode.  It's still possible that something else could be wrong on the main control board but everything lights up normally and it is sending the proper 1.5V, though briefly, to the burner control module. 

I don't like to give up on challenges and Dometic has really put the screws to their customers on this one....with the crazy high cost of replacement parts that should be relatively inexpensive, guessing isn't an option.  Aftermarket companies make inexpensive boards for most RV fridges but not this one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote poohbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 10:22am
Not in my skill set, neither the electronics nor the propane regulation/ignition.

My guess is the Fault light is telling of a detected failure of the propane regulation/ignition.
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