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new converter/charger and shunt

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Pod People View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: new converter/charger and shunt
    Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 1:47pm

We would like to upgrade our battery charging system and are looking for suggestions. We boondock a lot and our power needs are moderate to low.  We are able to keep our batteries charged when traveling, but are looking to protect them and fully charge/equalize them when stored at home.

 

We currently have a 2015  model 179 RPod and have the stock WFCO 9855PEC charger.  We added 2 Trojan T-105 6volt golf cart batteries.  We use a Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase system with a Renogy pwm charge controller and also a Honda EU2200 generator. 

 

We are thinking about a Progressive Dynamics converter/charger and a Victron shunt and have just started researching both.  I know there are several options for both devices.

 

One question is which Victron unit to use-either the Smart Shunt or the Victron BV-712.  It seems that the difference is the Smart Shunt has a Bluetooth remote display for your phone whereas the BV-712 has the display adjacent to the battery or can be moved distant but has to be connected by wiring.  The Bluetooth is more expensive, but is it worth the extra cost?  Any suggestions, observations or other makes/models  to choose from would be appreciated.

 

When I open the Wafco converter, I don’t see the actual converter/charging unit, so I assume it is behind the fuse/breaker panel and located on the floor. How much trouble is it to change out the unit?? I recall several forum members doing this and would love to hear their ideas.  I assume that Progressive Dynamics makes a unit that is “plug and play” and a direct replacement. Is that correct? Any specifics I need to look out for?

Another question is whether the Charge Wizard is helpful or needed. From what I can tell from the website, it seems that the Charge Wizard basically tells you what charging cycle is occurring.  Are there other uses or benefits to this additional device?

 

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

Travel safe and often.

 

Vann


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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 3:58pm
I had not heard of a 9855. Mine has an 8955 unit. Yes, you need to remove the two screws that hold the front on. That will then tip off and you will see the converter on the bottom half under the breakers and fuses. It is not too hard to change. The wires to the circuit board are the hardest ones as I had to remove the circuit board to be able to run the wires and get them plugged in correctly. It is held in by clipping into the panel with no screws holding it in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 4:37pm
When I looked on Amazon it appears than the Victron smart shunt is about $130 and uses only Bluetooth to a phone app. The BMV712 is around $200 and has both an LCD display and bluetooth, so it seems like the Bluetooth only version without a display is cheaper. There's also a BMV700 for $140 with a display but no BT.

Here's a video link.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 5:24pm
thanks for the info-Stephen is correct-I transposed the number-indeed it is a 8955 charger/converter. also thanks for the install tip.
I have explored the websites for Victron and Progressive.  I will eventually talk with salespeople from both companies, but want to learn more first.
I assume the smart shunt must be installed in a protected and waterproof location .  this seems hard to do in a plastic battery box. so that is a big question.
Still learning.
Thanks
Vann

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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 6:43pm
This is the one I used along with an extension cable so I could put the display where I wanted to:

I did not feel like I needed a "smart" monitor. The simple one costs a lot less money and does the job for me. Renogy offers one for a bit more. I would probably opt for that if I were to purchase one now. It has some good features and even offers one made for "smart" Lithium batteries.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gpokluda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2022 at 8:48pm
We use the Renogy 500 and really like it. You need to throw the directions away because they are useless and watch the Youtube video to configure it, but once you get that figured out it's easy to use. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2022 at 6:11am
The smart shunt has an IP21 rating which translates to protection from finger touch and from condensation but not rain or splash protection.So you can put it in your battery box as long as the battery doesn't touch it and the box cover protects it from rain and road splash.

If you're really concerned I guess you could get a little NEMA4x or IP66 rated box and put the shunt in that, but then you'd have to route the battery negative cable through the new box, which in turn is likely to compromise that enclosure's water ingress rating.    

There's nothing worse than a watertight electrical box that leaks around the cable glands and ends up filled up with rainwater or condensation. Happens all the time. Personally, after opening up all kinds of "watertight" boxes over the years while troubleshooting failed solar power systems, and having water run out, I prefer rain shielded self draining NEMA 3R type enclosures, which is pretty much what a plastic battery box is if you drill some weep holes in the bottom.

I'd just put the battery shunt in the battery box, be sure to have some weep holes and the cover on tight, and leave it at that.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2022 at 6:42am
+1 on the weep holes. I had two battery boxes on the tongue and removed the cover one day to find that both had filled up with water (whether rain or that which was splashed up by travel through rain, I can't say). That is when I drilled holes in the bottom to let any water that gets in drain out.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gpokluda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2022 at 8:41am
Ditto on StephenH and OG. I mounted the shunt for the Renogy 500 in the lid of the battery box and added an additional splash guard I made from an sturdy old food storage container. Also, weep holes in a tongue mounted battery box are a must.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote bmaddux Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2022 at 12:03pm
I'm in the process of looking at some of the same modifications... being adding a 195Ah 12v Golf Cart battery, a battery monitor, and a small generator (like the Honda 2200). 

I have a couple of questions:
1) Does you vehicle give your batteries a significant charge while driving?
2) How long does it take your generator to charge your batteries? Do you plug your RPOD into the generator? Or use a battery charger directly to the batteries?
3) Is there a benefit of 2 6v batteries over a single 12v? I know I'd get 15 - 30 more Ah's from 2 6v's, but that also comes with more weight. Is it worth it?
4) How many days of boondocking can you realistically get from your batteries? A small test I did looks looked like running the MaxAir fan on low, the frig on propane and one or 2 lights was using between 20 and 30 watts. With an average of 25 watts x 24 hours = 600 Wh or 50 Ah/day. So I'm guessing I'd get about 2 days without charging from the 195Ah 12v GC battery before I'd need shore power or the generator. Does that seem about right?

I started down the road of Lithium, but it all seemed to get complicated, although its not completely off the table yet.  I might still consider a single 200Ah Lithium battery and upgrade the converter/charger, along with the battery monitor and generator...

Our goal is to be able to go out for a 3 - 6 day swing through the Eastern Washington Harvest Host wineries with maybe just 1 night in a campground. Or to be able to do a longer road trip with stays at free or low cost campgrounds and/or boondock with the only real limit being tankage. At the same time, I'm trying to do the upgrades without going "all in" until we really find out how much off-grid camping we are going to do (only owned the camper for about 9 months and only had it out for 3 weekends, all with power/water).
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