Refrigerator Not Cooling

Hogone, any progress with your fridge issue?

Also note that many (though certainly not all) LFP batteries have built-in voltage regulators such that you can connect them to a plain vanilla lead acid charger without harming them.

I've been looking online at Dometic 110E fridges and found a couple of sources on Ebay for less than $900. Which naturally makes me wonder why so cheap? I've made a couple of inquiries to find out why they're such a bargain. Last year's model? 

Originally posted by StephenH BUT a lead-acid charger will not fully charge a LiFePO4 battery. The charging profile is different. Charge voltage is 14.2-14.6V according to my manual. Also, there is no float charge with LiFePO4 batteries because they have a very slow self-discharge rate. Disconnected, one could expect it to hold the charge over a year. The Bulk/Absorption/Float modes of the stock lead-acid charger are not correct.

This is why I was careful to say "best practice" was to install a DC/DC converter for alternator charging.

That being said, if I were converting to Li right now I think I would get two of the cheapest 100AH batteries I could (there are some for under $300 each on Amazon), install a new ac converter (an excuse to go to Progressive Dynamics because I've had a very poor experience with WFCO), get or reset my solar charge controller for Li charging, and try the alternator charging as is.

That would give me two solid charge sources set up for Li, and one marginal one as backup while driving. Most automotive alternators regulate voltage to around 14V, so if there isn't a large load causing high voltage drop on the house batteries (like the absorption fridge on 12V) the charging should be at least fair, although they won't reach full charge.

I would also relocate the batteries to the interior of the trailer rather than spend the extra money and waste energy with the self heating type sitting on the tongue. But I'm a cheapskate so I'm not necessarily recommending this approach for everyone.

Actual total width with the mounting frame is approximately 23.5" (quick, imprecise measurement) so the 23.35" is probably correct for the total width. The cut-out opening, however, is going to be more like 21.25" which is an estimate because the actual width is hidden behind the frame and I don't want to take the refrigerator out to measure more precisely. Hopefully, this will give you a better idea. Also, some of them might not come with the frame. Because the frame attaches on the outside, the 20.75" of the one seller is likely the model without the frame. In that case, there are covers for openings through which screws can be used to secure the refrigerator in place.