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Question about solar

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JR View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Question about solar
    Posted: 28 Aug 2022 at 3:21pm
I have a 2019 179 and when I purchased the trailer new it was advertised as being "solar ready" which meant that there was a wire supplied by Zamp installed at the factory from the outside of the rear of the trailer to the battery up front.  If you were going to be using that wiring in your solar setup you had to purchase all Zamp equipment or insure that your solar setup was not wired with reverse polarity.  This was do to the fact that Zamp solar was the company that was "in business" with Forest River advertising the solar ready program. I also believe that the Zamp controllers and panels are wired in reverse of the norm for the industry.  That would be the reason that the Zamp pre wiring of the trailers is reverse of all the solar wiring I have come across.  I have not worked with Go Power products but that might be the problem you are experiencing with your trailer, that is wired with reverse polarity.  This seems unlikely because you indicated that there has been RV dealer techs working on this problem.  It seems to me that the techs would have found the problem if the system was incorrectly wired.  That is also my take on the "solar plug drama".  Hope this helps.
Jay

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gpokluda View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gpokluda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2022 at 3:24pm
@Gregs Pod. The Solar on the Side (SAE) plug is simply a couple wires run to the battery(s) and also have the polarity reversed. So instead of dealing with that, I chose to mount the Anderson style plug that came with the GoPower solar kit directly to the batteries for easy connect/disconnect. Note that I mounted directly to the batteries so I can still keep the batteries charging by solar but bet able to cut off power to the RV through a cutoff switch.

Sorry, I can't help with the rooftop solar issue, you are having, but to me it sounds like a loose connection, broken wire or something like that. I will say, that GoPower seems to overestimate the output of their panels. Mine are rated at 10amp but I have never seen above 8amp come off the kit.
Gpokluda
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Post Options Post Options   Quote steveterrynpoppy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2022 at 6:10pm
Our 2021 171 came with a charge controller, port on the roof, and inverter.  No roof solar panel.   Charge controller is 10 amp...so if I understand correctly...provides for up to 150 watts from solar.  

I am a newbie to solar and electric overall.   But as I understand it, I'm not going to get AC outlets with what i have now.   Which is fine...I am looking to optimize my offgrid time w just our 12v functions (lights, water pump). 

It seems I can install one 100 watt solar panel on the roof, where the port is.  The trailer comes set up for this so maybe it makes sense?   Is it silly to just bypass this factory set up?

Or I can go portable, which(I think) is my preference.  No drilling in my roof, can move it around for sun, and more easily replaceable when the time comes.  The one recommended here (Renergy) seems almost cheaper than installing a panel on the roof. 

So if 100 watts is sufficient, looking for opinions on portable v roof.   Also, if I go portable, do I still need to connect through the factory installed controller...or will kits generally come w a controller?  

Thanks.  Thinking I should change my name to ontherpodlearningcurve.   :-)
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ben Herman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2022 at 8:21pm
I use the Renogy suitcase and the Zamp plug - just reverse the wires that you connect to it. I added about 15 ft of 12 gauge wire to mine so that I can move the suitcase into the sun. 5+ years of use, no problems at all. 
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steveterrynpoppy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote steveterrynpoppy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 5:46am
Thanks Ben...our plug is on the roof.   Doesnt seem practical to run from there? 
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 7:08am
Make yourself a short wiring harness. On the battery end, put connecting rings to go on the battery terminals. On the other end, use  Anderson PowerPole connectors. The solar connectors need a tool to connect/disconnect. PowerPole connectors are better suited for something that will be plugged in and unplugged multiple times. There are less expensive versions available on Amazon. You can also get weatherproof covers for them. Then you would not need to climb up on the roof to connect/disconnect your solar panel(s). I'm pretty sure the thought was that the owner would permanently mount solar panels up there. 

As has been stated previously, having panels at ground level where you can put them in the sun if you are parked in the shade is a good idea. However, if you regularly park in the sun, then rooftop solar is more convenient, being permanently mounted. It is also a bit more secure if you need to leave the site and still want to charge via solar.
StephenH
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 12:34pm
Don't go over about 100 watts with a 10 amp rated charge controller.

Your charge controller is already installed inside the trailer and connected to the roof?

If so then you will need to relocate it if you connect a portable solar module and charge controller to the battery, or buy another one.

Don't connect directly to the battery, you need to install a fuse inline in the positive connection between the controller and the battery, as close to the battery as possible. There is plenty of current available from your battery to start a fire if your wires to the portable solar system ever ever get shorted out. You wouldn't install a circuit in your house without running it through a fuse or breaker would you?This is no different.

Use a 12Vdc rated 15 or 20 amp fuse. Either online or bolt on ones are available on Amazon and elsewhere. The bolt on ones can be attached directly to the battery positive terminal if you want.

Use a minimum of 12 gauge wire if your one way run from the battery to the portable solar is up to 15 ft. 10 gauge between 15 and 25 ft, and 8 gauge between 25 and 40 ft. Otherwise you'll have too much voltage drop due to wire resistance as it's only a 12V circuit.

The pros of portable vs roof mount are

Roof mount pros

no setup time
no storage hassle
charges while driving
charges while in outside storage
low theft risk

pros of portable

can locate in a sunny spot
can adjust orientation for max performance
no holes in roof
simpler install

It's a personal preference thing, and choosing one doesn't preclude doing the other later.









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