NEW 192 pod tomorrow...

The trailer GVWR should be 4840 according to your sticker. Since the You need to get a tape measure and measure the distance from the trailer axle to the ball and also from the Traverse rear axle to the ball. Also measure the length of your wdh bars, I'm sure they're not 30 inches, typically they're 18. And the wdh rating should be what's published for your hitch, in the range of 600-1000 lbs for your rig.
The trailer GVWR and tongue weight should be your actual fully loaded weights as measured on the public scale.

if you choose to never fill your water tanks be sure to drain and dump at the campground every time before you hit the road. Consider if that's really practical for the kind of camping you do. If it's not practical then fill your fresh water tank before you go to the scales. As a minimum, you need to have the water heater tank full when you weigh. That's about 50 lbs right there. Fill your fuel tank too and take your wife and pets (if any) and all the tools, folding chairs, bbq grills, propane tanks, ground cloths, etc etc. You will be surprised how quickly it all adds up.

The wdhs I've seen have around 18 inch bars, but if yours are 35 inches then they are. To be clear, I'm talking about the spring bars which you put under tension to lift the hitch.

The place in the calculator that's used is to calculate the moment (torque) the wdh is applying at the ball to rotate the tow vehicle down in the front and up at the hitch. Once you have the calculator set up for your rig you can adjust the tension on the bars to get the weight on the front axle back to where it was without the trailer, which is the proper way to set up a wdh.

Start with no tension on the bars and don't have the bars tensioned when you go through the scales. Have the wdh installed though. You can put the wdh bars in the back of the tow vehicle for weighing if that's more convenient. The WDH is considered to be part of the tow vehicle not the trainer.

To get the water heater tank empty you have to pull the anode rod. You might be able to get most of the water out by pulling the heater tank pressure relief valve and opening a winterizing drain, not sure. Either way it's a bit of a PITA so hopefully you can stay within your weights without having to drain the water heater every time.

When you say you measured with the wdh you didn't have it tensioned did you? If you did that throws of everything so weigh again with the wdh in the reciever and the trailer connected, but the bars not tensioned or just toss the bars in the back of the Traverse. You do not need to get any weights with the wdh tensioned, the calculator takes care of that for you.

Add one axle to the scale at a time and record all 3 measurements. The front axle weight you get directly. The rear tow vehicle axle weight is the second measurement minus the front axle. The trailer axle weight is the 3rd measurement minus the second.

Now disconnect the trailer but leave the wdh in the reciever. Don't take anything out of the Traverse. Weigh again, first just the front axle then both. As before the rear axle is the second weight minus the first.

Tongue weight is the second measurement from the first weighing (both Traverse axles with the trailer) minus the second measurement from the second weighing (the Traverse without the trailer).

The total trailer weight is the 3rd measurement from the first weighing (total rig weight) minus the second measurement from the second weighing (total traverse weight without the trailer).

Fill the water heater before you weigh again if you haven't already.


Hope that helps.

The sticker does show the max rated weights. The R stands for rating. Put those sticker numbers in the calculator as the max rated numbers.

The weighings are to get actuals for comparison so put those numbers in the calculator in that area. Once you have everthing in the calculator you can look at the dual gauges at the bottom and see how close you are to your ratings. Note that the wdh does not increase any ratings, your tow vehicle and trailer have to be within spec without it.

Then you can input a bar tension in that input. Adjust that number so the front axle weight with the wdh equals the actual measured front axle weight without the trailer. That is the target when you set up your wdh. You get there by measuring front axle squat during wdh setup but it works the same as if you weighed again.

Enjoy, make long lasting great memories, have fun.