196 use of LiPo battery

I would like to switch to a LiPo battery on my 196. My current controller is a GP-PWM-30-Ul that comes with the 196. It has a setting for LiPo batteries. My question is do I need to modify anything for shorepower or when plugged into my car when traveling? Will the current setup correctly charge the LiPo under these circumstances?

Originally posted by brandtjm I would like to switch to a LiPo battery on my 196. My current controller is a GP-PWM-30-Ul that comes with the 196. It has a setting for LiPo batteries. My question is do I need to modify anything for shorepower or when plugged into my car when traveling? Will the current setup correctly charge the LiPo under these circumstances?

Everything works anyway you do it. The only dif is the lipo battery requires 14.4 volts to fully charge I believe. Your normal charge convertor will charge the battery, just not to full charge, which in timew will shorten it's life. Also beware of lipo batteries in below freezing temp's you can destroy them charging.

I would not use the WFCO ac to DC converter/charger that comes with the rpod (assuming you have what I had and others have had) to charge a Li battery. My WFCO failed and overcharged my lead acid batteries to over 15.5V. No harm done on flooded golf cart batteries but Li batteries would overheat and possibly catch fire at that voltage. Get a converter intended for Li battery charging.

As for charging from the tow vehicle alternator while on the road, as others have said a DC/DC converter is needed. Check your existing chafing circuit, it's probabky protected by a 30A breaker at the tow vehicle battery and uses 10 gauge for the wire run. The 7 way connector isn't good for more than that anyway. So, don't get a DC/DC converter that exceeds that current rating. A 20A one would be a good choice.

Simply cut the +12V conductor on the on the trailer side of the connector and run that using 10 gauge wire to the +12V input to the DC/DC. Then run the +12v output from the converter back to the other end of the wire you cut which will feed to the trailer 12V circuits. You won't have the issue with shorting across the DC/DC input and output that StephenH refers to. The -12V conductor can be connected in common to both the input and output of the DC/DC. That should also be 10 gauge.

Self-heating Li batteries do exist but it's not common. You can also make a heating system using a matt heater similar to what is used to keep tanks from freezing.

But the heating systems use electrical resistance elements, which consume energy and would be ok if you are on shore power, not so much if you are boondocking. And why invest in a li battery if youre not boondocking?

Much better just to put the battery in the space you will be heating with propane anyway, costs no additional energy to do that. Li batteries don't outgas like lead acid batteries do, so no issues there.