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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12 volt only solar setup?
    Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by Mr. Scott

So is there some sort of plug-and-play unit that I can get to replace the existing converter?  Our RPod is a 2014, I think.


If you're referring to the ac to DC converter I believe WFCO makes an ac to DC charger aka converter that is plug and play compatible with the existing one and is set up to replace it for charging Li batteries. I would go that route (or check with Progressive Dynamics if you don't like WFCO) rather than add another component in series with the existing converter which has a complex multistage charging profile, not what you want for Li batteries.

If youre talking about a DC to DC converter so you can charge the Li batteries from the TV that would be a new installation not a repolacement in a location of your choice so you can do what you want. Several manufacturers make them.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 3:00pm
Yeah, referring to the existing AC to DC converter to make it Lion friendly.  Thanks!  I'll check that out.  But, yeah, I'll need the DC to DC converter, too, because I want to charge from the TV.

Jeez, I need a schematic!  At least a basic one.  LOL.  I think for obvious reasons I want to be able to charge from a land line, the TV, and the solar.  So it looks like three different parts:

1) AC to DC converter (basic swap)
2) DC to DC converter (for TV)--this one is more mysterious for me re. placement.
3) Solar charge controller--simple in line with the solar panels to the batts

So that covers it, yes?  Besides, of course, busses, fuses, etc.

My head hurts.

Thanks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 3:11pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Originally posted by StephenH

Well, that was the problem. The 12V supply line from the TV did not go just to the DC to DC input. If that had been the case, it would have been much easier. I ended up disconnecting that wire from the little breaker underneath the front of the trailer so I could use just the circuit I installed and not feed back through the connector.


Something is not right. If you cut the 12V line from the TV immediately after it leaves he trailer side of the connector and splice in the DC DC converter at that point then there shouldn't be any backfeed into the TV 12v system. All the other +12v lines coming through the connector are dedicated to some lighting or braking function controlled and powered by the TV. The only one of those lines that should ever get connected into the trailer 12v system is the breakaway brake line, and that should only happen when the Bargeman connector has been pulled.

o
Sounds like maybe there is a wiring issue somewhere in the trailer.
No problem there. I did not think to splice the wire there to the DC to DC charger. I did not have a wiring diagram to see what was connected there so I went with something that seemed like it would be the best option. In any case, that wire from the Bargman connector has to be connected to the battery for the TV to charge it. That was the problem. I could not see how to isolate the DC to DC charger from the load connections so the DC to DC charger would not also be trying to draw power from the battery and be charging itself, which really is impossible. Plus, by doing it the way I did, I was able to just connect a wire from the feed line to the terminal that controls the DC to DC charger's powering itself up and turning itself off. Otherwise, I would have needed to run a wire to an ignition circuit controlled circuit anyway to turn it on and off.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by Mr. Scott

Yeah, referring to the existing AC to DC converter to make it Lion friendly.  Thanks!  I'll check that out.  But, yeah, I'll need the DC to DC converter, too, because I want to charge from the TV.

Jeez, I need a schematic!  At least a basic one.  LOL.  I think for obvious reasons I want to be able to charge from a land line, the TV, and the solar.  So it looks like three different parts:

1) AC to DC converter (basic swap)
2) DC to DC converter (for TV)--this one is more mysterious for me re. placement.
3) Solar charge controller--simple in line with the solar panels to the batts

So that covers it, yes?  Besides, of course, busses, fuses, etc.

My head hurts.

Thanks.
WFCO part # is WF 8950 L2 MBA. It is a fairly simple swap for the WF 8955 converter that the RPod comes with, assuming that you have the 8955 that has the converter module and not one of the ones that does not have it as a separate module.

DC to DC: You can see where I put mine in my mods listing. I placed it near the battery. The drawings on Renogy's site are more geared toward a motor home where it will be close to the engine compartment and can be connected to a circuit that is only live when the ignition is on. That triggers the charger to turn on. When power is removed, that triggers it to turn off. On my installation, since i have the separate power circuit, I just draw power from that to the switch since it is only live when the engine is running and the isolation solenoid is closed. When the engine is off, the isolation solenoid opens and the circuit has no current. Thus, the DC to DC charger shuts off.

Solar: Yes, it is easy. Since you won't have the converter or the DC to DC charger trying to charge the battery, your solar panel's charge controller will handle the charging just fine. Connect it directly to the battery or run a connection to where you can use an Anderson PowerPole connector. Make sure to get the rubber waterproof boots to install as well so your connections stay dry both when connected or disconnected. These beat the solar MC4 connectors because it does not require a tool to disconnect them and they are much heavier duty so with something that will be plugged and unplugged many times, the Anderson PowerPole connectors are much better. 

If, like me, you mount the LiFePO4 battery and DC to DC charger inside the RPod, you will want connectors that are easy access from the outside anyway. The PowerPole connectors with the boots work well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 4:13pm
Awesome. Thank you.  It will be a couple of months at least before I start buying parts, but this discussion is really going to help.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 7:24pm
Be sure to build in proper fuse and/or circuit breaker protection. Each current producing device needs to be fused at the source to protect the wires coming from it. 10 gauge 30A, 8 gauge 40A, 6 gauge 50A. The exception is the solar circuit which needs a fuse or cb at the battery but not the solar end because solar is self limiting in current. All fuses breakers, and switches go in the pos conductors.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 7:30pm
StephenH, you could do the same thing using the +12V from the Bargeman to turn the DC DC on and off. Either way, it's a good point that anyone doing this would need to either disconnect their trailer connector as soon as they stop or run a wire from their ignition to the DC DC on/off input, otherwise they will draw down their TV battery trying to charge the trailer battery.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 8:03pm
Originally posted by offgrid

StephenH, you could do the same thing using the +12V from the Bargeman to turn the DC DC on and off. Either way, it's a good point that anyone doing this would need to either disconnect their trailer connector as soon as they stop or run a wire from their ignition to the DC DC on/off input, otherwise they will draw down their TV battery trying to charge the trailer battery.
And that is the point. When we are traveling, we often stop and don't disconnect. If we stop for lunch, I sure don't want to be unplugging the Bargeman connector. The risk of forgetting to plug it back in is too high. With my setup, I don't have to worry about it as the isolation solenoid takes care of it for me.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 8:24pm
You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by offgrid

You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
That is good advice for someone who is contemplating doing the job, but since it is done, I'm not going back and re-doing it just to run through the Bargman. Besides, I think I already stated that the Frontier's wire used for 12V power was not heavy enough for what Renogy specified. Running a dedicated wire ensures that I am not going to have issues with it as long as I own the Frontier.
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