Let's talk 12v goodies

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   Thanks Outbound.  Like you, I prefer 12v stuff whenever possible, as it is always available.

When I posted this, I realized that I am kind of unique among them membership.  Although there are other "Hams", I think that I'm the only one who takes radios camping.  The WFCO is likely fine in anything but an "RF" situation, and at that, in the "HF" portion of the spectrum.  The WFCO is a switching supply, and without extra design considerations, they can be "noisy" in the "HF" conditions.  This is only really important to shortwave radio listeners (translate; very small %).

Knowing my situation unique, I just threw this out there to give people something to look at (not a lot of posting going on), maybe show them some products (like the LED light) that they too could use and, perhaps stimulate some ideas of their own.  For instance, the macerator thread.  I had not thought of using one in the way that you do - transferring grey-black.  So I learned something.  It also got me to thinking of other ways to do the job, like; hard plumbing/wiring a standard automotive fuel pump to transfer the liquid.  I could just flip a switch inside the camper and watch the lights on the monitor panel change!  (would probably put a filter on it - just in case)

Like you, I've been haunting the campgrounds for a number of years and there is not a whole lot new under the sun, for me.  But, every now and then someone will say something that will get me thinking.  I already know what I want to do about the "noise" and how I want to do it.  But, in throwing something like this out there, well.....ya just never know.    Again, thanks!

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Guests Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Guest Group	Topic: Let's talk 12v goodies Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:09am
	Thanks Outbound. Like you, I prefer 12v stuff whenever possible, as it is always available. When I posted this, I realized that I am kind of unique among them membership. Although there are other "Hams", I think that I'm the only one who takes radios camping. The WFCO is likely fine in anything but an "RF" situation, and at that, in the "HF" portion of the spectrum. The WFCO is a switching supply, and without extra design considerations, they can be "noisy" in the "HF" conditions. This is only really important to shortwave radio listeners (translate; very small %). Knowing my situation unique, I just threw this out there to give people something to look at (not a lot of posting going on), maybe show them some products (like the LED light) that they too could use and, perhaps stimulate some ideas of their own. For instance, the macerator thread. I had not thought of using one in the way that you do - transferring grey-black. So I learned something. It also got me to thinking of other ways to do the job, like; hard plumbing/wiring a standard automotive fuel pump to transfer the liquid. I could just flip a switch inside the camper and watch the lights on the monitor panel change! (would probably put a filter on it - just in case) Like you, I've been haunting the campgrounds for a number of years and there is not a whole lot new under the sun, for me. But, every now and then someone will say something that will get me thinking. I already know what I want to do about the "noise" and how I want to do it. But, in throwing something like this out there, well.....ya just never know. Again, thanks!

Outbound Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 19 Nov 2009 Location: Oshawa, Ontario Online Status: Offline Posts: 767	Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 7:17pm
	I'm not into radio, but I've never noticed any noise on my laptop or iPod speakers, both of which are run off the 12v side of my WFCO converter. I installed 12v accessory outlets in my trailer last year. I tend to have DC gadgets in the trailer so that they can be used both when we have 120v available and when we're running on battery. But then again, I use switching power adapters for both devices (neither runs at 12v; the laptop is 19v, the speakers are 6v) that may be cleaning any line noise.
	Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150

cane2 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Online Status: Offline Posts: 92	Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 12:33pm
	When we had the fiver i went direct to Batt and that got rid of almost all my trouble. I did talk it down to where power went down but batt was very old and bad shape. Catch the line under your seat that goes/// I forgot you do not have pod anymore. Get to batt as short run as possible i Had a # 10 wire feeding my radio but 12 feet run under Fiver. For my macerator pump i will need about 4 feet of wire. When running power as you know short is best. I would think that would help.

Guests Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Guest Group	Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 12:25pm
	Thanks cane2. I have an Astron 70M (70 amps) which runs about everything at home. I also have a Astron 20M and a 25/(30 peak) switching (or switch mode) in the closet. I usually take the switching supply with me camping. I like the Astron supplies best and they have served well. Whenever I turn on a light in the camper, I hear an AC hum on my radio, at about "S3". If I use more power, such as take a shower and use more power, I hear a "S9+" chirp about every second. I'm thinking this is the charger pulsing a charge to the battery to recharge it. It goes on for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours (not a "smart" charger). Because of this, I've been afraid to run the radio (or anything electronic) directly from the 12v system in the TT. I could probably pull the existing power supply out, get out the soldering gun, and add some additional filtering, etc. But, that would be far too cost effective and I wouldn't get to spend $$$ on gadgets . I am also concerned in that the documentation on the power supply says it has (if memory serves) 2-3 charging modes, it appears to be linear (not smart) - it switches to bulk mode for 2 hours regardless. I think I'm probably overcharging the battery much of the time. It may meet FCC Class B specs, but..... With the PWRgate type set up, it seems that all the power supply is needed for is to keep the battery charged when connected to shore power, as the two are isolated. A small 10A supply would probably work fine, if one needed to purchase one. The battery booster & monitor would be nice for those times when no shore power is available. I also thought some might be interested in the isolator and maybe the LED light. 1/4A (.250ma) vs. approx. 4A could save some power.

cane2 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Online Status: Offline Posts: 92	Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 11:03am
	For my rig at home ( Yaesu ft-2600 M) I use a Astron 35 M it puts out 35 Ics and 25 amps continuous. I have the same one at the shop running a old Kenwood and have no hum at all and they work great but you have to have shore power. The hum comes cause they don't know the words. WB0UTK and KC0CST (yl)

Guests Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Guest Group	Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 8:09am
	I have the same 12v power supply/distribution panel as the rest of you (WFCO?). While fine for general purpose, I find it to be "RF" noisy - especially when it goes into bulk charge mode. This is not good for a radio person, like myself. But, it also makes me wonder how "clean" it is for other devises that some of you use, such as; laptops, TVs, etc. I plan to change out the power supply with an Astron model and let a West Mountain PWRgate handle the switching/charging duties. Also on the list is the MFJ battery booster and remote. If you remove the front panel of the existing power unit (brown) the supply is in the lower portion. If your set up is like mine (and my ex-RP173) there is plenty of room in the cavity behind the existing unit. I am going to keep the existing distribution panel. There are some other goodies that may be of interest to you, such as; the battery isolator, WHAT/MTR, LED light strip, etc. I would not recommend the Astron inverters, as they are modified sine wave. There is also a much cheaper alternative to the expensive "at the pole" plug in surge protectors - but that's for another installment. So, what are your thoughts? http://www.westmountainradio.com/content.php?page=dc-power#iso_pwr http://www.powerwerx.com/ hhttp://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-4416B http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-4416BRC http://www.astroncorp.com/ Check the link on the West Mountain site; "Emergency power at W1ZR". It has some good info.