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Topic ClosedRP-19x frame height for WDH

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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: RP-19x frame height for WDH
    Posted: 15 Feb 2021 at 7:04am
I as well have never used a WDH and have towed with the following '94 F-150, '08 and '13 Explorer, '11 and '17 F-150 for over 36,000 miles and 10 years using a cheap $ 50 Curt anti-sway bar - no problems and no issues.

Only thing not mentioned but you probably already know is to have the nose of your 195 down about 1" or so from the back.  This will also greatly reduce the potential for sway.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2021 at 8:18pm
Update. 
We took delivery 4 days ago and drove the rig back home 35 miles at highway and freeway speeds up and down big hills the semi trucks passing us in both directions, and wing guest up to 25mph. Not a hint of sway with no WDH or anti sway device. The only thing noticeable was a bit of fore/aft pogo which I attribute to hitch receiver and hitch ball slack. But I get the same pogo when hauling my 5000lb 30hp Kubota on its beaver tail trailer.

I appreciate everyone’s advice in helping us first time RVers.

 
BTW the RP-195 has a 2” ball, and a tongue height of about 19” (to bottom of hitch ball socket lip)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 5:57pm
+1 to OG, a F250 does not really need a WDH, but OPs call.  I also use a friction sway and number one thing folks do is over tighten them.  They need to be set for friction not no movement.  I also have backed my trailer with friction bar attached, the reason they say you have to disconnect is that if you over tighten, they can't slide.  As far as disconnecting, that takes all of less than a minute.  Both my TVs have a 8000 pound tow rating which is less than a F150, no issues.  End of the day, sway is caused by poor loading or weight distribution, marginal TV, probably need a WDH.  Have a balanced load plan and you won't need a WDH on your present truck.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 4:35pm
Yeah I think you can get home 35 miles safely with your f250 with no wdh👍.

Btw I have friction antisway and don’t disconnect it when backing up. Works fine.

The first thing to do is to avoid having a trailer that is prone to sway to begin with. To accomplish that keep your tongue weight at least 10%, preferably 11% plus of total trailer weight. If you plan on dual batteries and/or propane cylinders on the tongue you will likely accomplish that. Weigh the loaded trailer and tongue so you have real world data.

Then, you can think of antisway as a belt to go with your suspenders. A simple friction antisway bar will work, or you can get an electronic antisway device like the Hayes system. No need to go to the trouble and expense of a wdh if you don’t really need that.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 3:58pm
Sorry for the misplaced reply. That was meant for another question we posted.

I appreciate the thoughts on waiting until we get this home. Its only a 35 mile trip from the dealer to home and I expect I can handle that in my F250 without antisway. That will allow me to make my own measurements to get the right solution.

BTW, I agree I probably don't need weight distribution with my F250, but I would like Anti-sway that I don't have to disconnect when backing up. For that reason I'm leaning towards the Anderson solution.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 3:51pm
Hi All,
I appreciate the replies. To answer a question, 2 x 60lb bikes + rack is going to be around 180lb total.

We were very much hoping for something that would allow us to not have to lift the heavy bikes into the back of the pickup (so one person could do it), which is why we were thinking of a rack behind the trailer. But the several warnings against it, are causing is to plan on having two people for loading/unloading the bikes into the pickup.

We are not keen on putting the bikes inside the trailer - I doubt they would fit without loosening the handlebar stem and tilting the handlebars parallel with the front wheel, which means readjusting the stem each time we take them out. Also not keen on the tire scuffs inside the trailer, and trying to find ways to secure them for travel inside.

Tnx,

R & M
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 12:54pm
You certainly have enough truck!  So, why would you bother with a weight distributing hitch?  A friction damper for sway control might be nice.  I use one of those.  The rest of your questions should be addressed to your dealer/seller or Forest River.  I bought my 180 at a Camping World.  They set it up for me and their hitch prices were quite good, so if you show up bare, they'll fix you  up for not much $$. 

You might want to have your preferred brake controller installed beforehand so you can shop for price.  Mine took about 2 hours. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 10:30am
You should contact the dealer before picking up the unit to check on the hitch ball.  My 195 takes a 2 inch ball as did the the 179 that we had. The "owner's manual" that came with the unit is a generic manual the Forest River uses for all of their products and the ball size in the manual is incorrect for R-Pods.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 10:08am
We don't use a WDH for our 195, and tow with a 1/2 ton (Ram 1500 with factory tow package) and have had no issues.  Gone 10,000+ miles in a year, up hill and down dale, in high crosswinds, etc.

We do keep our speed down...60-65mph

I would be surprised if your 3/4 ton had any problems at all.

BTW it's in the shop so I can't get you the measurements.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2021 at 9:44am
I don’t have a 195 so I can’t answer your question, probably no one will know to 1/8 inch what the tongue height is on your specific trailer. My suggestion is that you tow your new trailer home without the wdh and measure it yourself. You might also find that you don’t need a WDH., You have a very capable tow vehicle there so using a wdh is optional for you.
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