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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Charging while towing
    Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 11:36am
I prefer to run my fridge on 12V while towing also. 

But when we ask a question or propose something on a forum, we all need to expect questions and challenges, otherwise why ask?  In this case the physics behind the energy flows is what it is, and it works the same for everyone.  

Of course its totally up to you what you do or don't do with information you get, its your rig. No argument from me. 


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pedwards2932 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 10:24am
Ok lets just say this works for me. When I overnite I will run the fridge on propane just don't want to do it while driving.  When you hook up the 7 way and start the car the alternator reads the car battery voltage not the pod battery so it won't fully charge very well.  Again my charger charged my battery pretty quickly....I have an old automatic charger so the amperage input rolled off as it reached full charge. I haven't spent any additional money and can top off my battery if needed.   Again it works for me not sure what the argument is about.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 10:11am
When you use a generator you are providing an external energy source. Ditto when you run the engine to use the alternator. Ditto again if you charge from a solar module.

But if you attempt to charge the trailer battery from the tow vehicle battery you are merely moving energy from one battery to the other. It is a zero sum game, so completely different from using an external source. And the battery you are removing energy from has less capacity than the one you are moving it to. 

And if you use an inverter/charger you are moving it in a way that wastes about half of what you are moving. Its counter productive. If you want to be able to run the trailer from both batteries just leave the 7 way connected and that will happen without any waste.  Just be careful not to run both batteries down and not be able to start the TV. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 9:45am
I am charging with the alternator while driving.  If I arrive at a campground with a hook up nothing is needed but to hook up.  If I am doing an overnite with no hookup I can use the charger if needed.  I don't see the complication.....this avoids needing a generator or solar panels.  When I did it yesterday it charged very quickly so the battery didn't need a lot of charge.  I can monitor the Escapes battery to see when it would need to be started......I honestly don't see the complication.....very similar to using a generator to charge up the battery.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 9:24am
OK, now I'm totally confused about what you are trying to accomplish. I thought it was to increase charging current while towing so you cam run the fridge on 12v? But you are saying that's not a problem. There is some kind of basic misunderstanding here I think. 

Lets try it this way.  Think in terms of energy flows. When you say you want to "top off" the trailer battery once you've parked, where is that energy coming from? Are you idling your tow vehicle and using the alternator to provide it? If so, just change the fridge over to propane and leave the 7 way connector attached. Problem solved. 

You can't charge from the tow vehicle without the alt running because that will remove energy from the TV battery and discharge it in short order.  If you are thinking that you can charge directly between the two batteries using the 7 way while at the same time charging via an inverter/charger in parallel that won't happen. The dc voltage will be established by the two batteries which are after all connected in parallel forming a single 12V buss.  The inverter/charger will just act like a load, basically a high tech heater sucking more energy from the system than its putting back in to the same buss its drawing from. You would have to disconnect the 12V connection between the two batteries and charge only through the inverter/charger. But why do that if you can charge directly far more efficiently just like you are doing while driving?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 8:35am
My car was already wired for the DC and I already had the inverter to run my TV on DC when needed.  As I said so far running the refrig on DC hasn't caused an issue in 9 hours I probably don't need it while running but if I am stopping for overnight without a hook up it would help to top off the charge.
I wasn't aware of the converter charging the battery while running.....I assumed the alternator output was charging the pod battery?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 8:04am
Originally posted by pedwards2932

Not sure if this would work but I was thinking of a way to avoid trying to run really large wiring from vehicle battery to TT.  You can get 300 watt inverters fairly cheap that will run off a cigerette lighter outlet.  The NOCO GENIUS10 puts out 10 amps and requires 150 watts.  Seems like this may be enough to keep the battery charged while towing.  I know you can get dc to dc chargers but they require you run really large wires.  What do you think?

Since the Rpod's converter already has the capability of charging the battery while the vehicle is running, I have to assume your TV does not have a strong enough alternator to run it. The other option, as you are trying to do, is to use a smaller charger in hopes of it working.

There is a Auto-breaker up front on the Rpod and this is where I tapped in to run my inverter. Just follow the wiring back on the harness, you'll see it. This may be your spot to tie in.

Like others, I do believe you are better served not going DC/AC/DC and staying DC/DC. Pickup a smaller DC/DC unit that doesn't require as much input wattage. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 8:04am
Also the 1.9 amps is max draw on charger.....it doesn't charge at max very lon at all.  If it were coupled with the alternator output of the car I doubt it would pull full charge either as the alternator would assist. I don't intend to use it on the road since the alternator seems to keep up okay.  My next purchase is digital voltmeter so I have a better idea what is going on with the battery.  Found a pretty cool one that will plug into my 12 v port on the pod.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2020 at 7:50am
"From a legal standpoint, so long as your propane lines and the RV refrigerator are installed according to code, then there is no law against driving down the road with the propane system on. However, there is one caveat to keep in mind. Most states require you to turn off all gas appliances and sources of flame when you are refueling."

I'm not thrilled with turning off and on the propane everytime I fuel.  I have been able to run with the frig on DC for 9 hours with no issue while driving. The charger idea is more for if I want to do an overnight and don't have a AC hookup....I can top off the battery when I park. My Escape is already wired for 12 v in the rear of the car so it is just a matter of plugging in the converter and connecting to the battery.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 2020 at 9:46pm
How do you get power to the rpod without additional wiring? There have to be some current carrying conductors there one way or another. Either you will be using the existing 12V conductors, running new 120V ones, or running new 12V ones.

Re efficiency losses, you are probably charging at about 14V so that is 14x10=140 Watts. You are providing the charger with 120v x 1.9A=228 watts, so you have lost close to 40% of the power in the charger alone. You will likely have a comparable loss in the inverter, so you will wind up requiring something like 20A or more from your alternator to get 10A (btw the fridge takes about 11-12A at 12V).

So why not just run the fridge on propane and for everything else directly charge from the alternator as per normal practice? I don’t see the upside?
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