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Topic ClosedRM 8501 wiring issue

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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: RM 8501 wiring issue
    Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 8:05am
Found out the following: you cannot switch door from right to left or vise versa.  What I did do was to basically take all the hardware off my old unit and put it on the new one so I now have a door with the hinge on the right side.  Had to bend the latch on the left side of the door to make it work.  Also took off my old top bracket that holds the readout for the fridge (new one came broken) and switched that all out.  Still going to call FR and have them send me a "correct" one so I have a spare. 

Now that all that goofiness is behind me I have another issue.  When I plugged it in to house current I had nothing power wise.  Realizing I need 12v (now I do) to have the interior light come on as well as run the mother board I hit a wall.  Called Dometic and they sent me a picture of where the pair of 12v wires go.  However in that spot I have 3 wires coming out that are attached in a plug.  On the cover these read PS IN  12V VDC  and it shows   -    +(D)   +(S).  Now attached to the - (black wire) 
                                                                                                                      + (purple wire)
                                                                                                                      + (D) white wire)
                                                                                               solar ?              +(S) open

On my old unit all I had was + (black) and - (white)  I do not like mixing wires of different color so what am I missing?  According to the plastic cover box I would connect the existing white ground  to the black line (-),  above and existing black line to the purple line (+) above.  That doesn't seem right to me.  If any of you can look at the back of your RM 8501 and tell me what you have, it would be appreciated.  No call back from FR today.  Hopefully Monday next week.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2020 at 8:40am
According to the manual here the D and S terminals are not used in the MES model, which is I think what we have.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Service%20Manual,%20RM8xxx.pdf

Terminals 1 and 2 are the 12V supply to the electronics and 5 and 6 are the supply for the 12V heating element. The photo on pg 41 shows the hookup. As you say, do not trust the color codes, use you voltmeter to confirm the polarity of each wire before connecting.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 12:06pm
Thank you Offgrid !!  I didn't see that wiring block as it is located real low ( I didn't get down on my belly to see this) on my original it was located and screwed on the top of the refrigerator where one can easily see it.  Anyway, my original was not hooked up to the heating element - it appears from the schematic on pages 43 and 44 that this is for a heater in the door?  What is the advantage of that?  Will this minimize the amount of ice buildup on the aluminum fins or what?  Also will this eat up a lot of battery if this is running all the time?  Any ideas of amperage use for this heating element?

Boondocking most of the time, battery longevity is important and I am used to getting 6 - 7 days out of my 9.5 year old Interstate batteries when night temps are under 50 and furnace runs a lot.  They are deep cycle group size 24. 
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'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 12:16pm
Usually door heaters are just to dry up condensation on the door gasket so you don’t get mold. I agree it’s a waste of a electricity boon docking. I’d leave it off and see if you have any problems you can’t deal with by just cleaning the seal.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 3:11pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Usually door heaters are just to dry up condensation on the door gasket so you don’t get mold. I agree it’s a waste of a electricity boon docking. I’d leave it off and see if you have any problems you can’t deal with by just cleaning the seal.


Sounds good to me.  It wouldn't be too difficult to add a couple pigtails in the future to hook up the heater.  On the original fridge it would be, because the wiring block to do this was screwed on the top of the unit, on this new one, it is on the back of the fridge near the floor.

Over the past 10 seasons camping with the 177 we have noted that spring and fall not much moisture on the seal but in summer or high heat/humidity season, quite a bit of moisture needs to be wiped off at times.
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'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 3:19pm
The older RV fridges didn't have door heaters. I used to get a little mold in the gasket folds, some vinegar always seemed to take care of it. But no one went around thinking that a little mold was gonna kill you back then like folks seem to nowadays. Confused
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 3:30pm
Yeah, I hear you.  The mold nowadays is smarter than it was 20 years ago!Confused  Anyway, my brother just sent me a text about this and told me that on his Dometic (5 Cubic foot) 2017 model year that the condensation heater for the door draws 0.5 amps or 6 watts.  That works out to be 12 amp hrs./day.
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'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 3:38pm
Either the mold is smarter or the humans are dumber, not sure which....

Waste of 12 amphours unless its really humid. Didn't look in the manual but is there an on/off setting for it built into the control board? If so maybe wire it up and leave it off till you really need it or have shore power. Or add a switch somewhere...
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