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EchoGale View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery & wiring
    Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 9:59pm
Thank you!
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 8:18pm
Yes, you can just leave the wires to the zamp port connected to the battery. I would run the positive connection through an inline fuse. 

Confirm the polarity you have is what you expect at the zamp port using you multimeter before making your final connection to the Renogy system. 

I think what you have planned should work fine. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 11:46am
In trying to find videos on installing a fuse at the battery, I found this great rpod video on getting an adapter and using the zamp connector. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF_H3Q2mFCQ

I have also learned that the renogy alligator connectors already have a fuse!


I guess I would have to still figure out how to connect those two loose wires to the batteries though. Can I just leave them connected?

If anyone sees any mistakes in my thinking I'd appreciate a heads-up.

YAY!!!!
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 11:04am
Good, mystery solved. I agree, those are most likely the zamp wires. 

I don't recall if you have a multimeter or not yet, but here's how you could confirm 100% if you want to. 

Leave the two wires loose at the battery end. Put your multimeter on the dc volts scale and touch the two probes to the two ring terminals on the two wires. Confirm there is no voltage on them.  Now you know you can safely connect the two wires together, so put a clip or a bolt through to hold the ring terminals together, or get someone to hold them together for you.

Then go to the zamp output port, insert the meter probes in the two poles of the port and confirm there is no voltage there. Then put the multimeter on the ohms (resistance) scale and check the resistance between the two poles. It should read zero or very low, like about 1 ohm, because you shorted the two wires together at the other end. 

Finally, go back to the terminals you connected together and disconnect them. If you now read high resistance (thousands of ohms) at the zamp port you know you have found the other ends of the same two wires. You can just set those two wires off to the side as you are not going to be using them.

For a fuse for your solar kit, you could use something like this


You would need to crimp a ring terminal on one wire so you can connect it to the battery + terminal, and probably use a butt splice connector on the other end to connect it to the positive lead going to your solar charge controller. Get one of these to cut, strip, and crimp the wires. Use the strip holes and crimper for the size of wire you have, squeeze hard when you crimp, and tug on the wire to test to be sure it doesn't pull out of the crimp later on. 

The ring terminals, butt splices, and crimp tool are available at your local big box, you might want to get a kit of assorted splices and terminals for your pod tool box. That way the next time a crummy connection somewhere on the rpod comes apart you can fix it. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 10:19am
You're kind. 
So I did solve one mystery.  There is a red wire (that was not in the photo) that goes from the "other" battery to the disconnect switch and then into the camper.

I'm increasingly thinking that those are the zamp wires. So my priority is to figure out about adding a fuse.  I'll check youtube.
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 9:30am
Ok, sounds good. let us know what you find.  And don't underestimate your capabilities, I'm sure you could add a fuse if you so decided, look at all the other stuff you've gotten done since you bought your trailer. Thumbs Up
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 9:11am
Thaks for the detail; this is very helpful.  I'll get back out there later today.


What I don't see is the positive connector from the batteries to the pod. That should be connected to one of the two positive battery posts (preferably to the battery on the left that the negative lead is NOT connected to, it balances the batteries better if you do that). It could be the red wire you're holding but if that's not  ever been connected then I'm puzzled how you have been getting battery power to your trailer dc circuits. 

I see your point! But I do have battery power in the camper. Maybe it's hidden in the picture. I'll check.

As GlueGuy says, I also have two extra wires on my trailer (smaller gauge that the main battery cables) which go to the Zamp solar port. So we have a total of 4, your picture only shows 3 wires plus the two battery jumper wires. Is there another wire somewhere that's not showing up in the picture?

I'll check

Next, did you rotate the left battery around or is it always set in there on an angle like that? I notice that the right side case is bigger than that battery, I'd suggest getting the correct size for that and placing the batteries in there lengthwise so you can strap them down and everything is stable. Those plastic cases aren't expensive.

No, this is how they came to me. I like this idea.

Finally, if you connect the suitcase solar kit directly to the battery, is there a fuse at the battery + terminal for that? If not, you should add one for safety. And be very careful working with wrenches and loose wires around batteries. If you've never seen what happens when you short a battery post to post or positive to frame ground you don't want to. You can get a heavy wire or tool red hot in a fraction of a second or even blow the side of a battery case off spraying acid everywhere due to internal heating.  Its best to tape up your wrench(es) so you don't accidentally touch them between posts and also disconnect the negative terminal first when working on batteries. 

I do always disconnect negative first and am very careful around anything electrical (dad was an electrician).  Honestly if I can find someone to look at this and straighten it our for me I'm inclined to go with (paid) expertise. I think adding a fuse might be beyond my skills at this point.  :)

And again thanks to all of you.





[/QUOTE]
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 4:59am
Julie, you do seem to have some odd stuff going on with your batteries.

First, yes it does appear that the batteries are connected in parallel. You can tell that because there is a black jumper wire between the two negative battery posts and a red one that looks like it goes between the two positive posts. 

And I see what appears to be the negative connection from the batteries going (probably) to the pod panelboard (black wire connected to the battery post just above your hand in the photo).  What I don't see is the positive connector from the batteries to the pod. That should be connected to one of the two positive battery posts (preferably to the battery on the left that the negative lead is NOT connected to, it balances the batteries better if you do that). It could be the red wire you're holding but if that's not  ever been connected then I'm puzzled how you have been getting battery power to your trailer dc circuits. 

As GlueGuy says, I also have two extra wires on my trailer (smaller gauge that the main battery cables) which go to the Zamp solar port. So we have a total of 4, your picture only shows 3 wires plus the two battery jumper wires. Is there another wire somewhere that's not showing up in the picture?

Next, did you rotate the left battery around or is it always set in there on an angle like that? I notice that the right side case is bigger than that battery, I'd suggest getting the correct size for that and placing the batteries in there lengthwise so you can strap them down and everything is stable. Those plastic cases aren't expensive.

Finally, if you connect the suitcase solar kit directly to the battery, is there a fuse at the battery + terminal for that? If not, you should add one for safety. And be very careful working with wrenches and loose wires around batteries. If you've never seen what happens when you short a battery post to post or positive to frame ground you don't want to. You can get a heavy wire or tool red hot in a fraction of a second or even blow the side of a battery case off spraying acid everywhere due to internal heating.  Its best to tape up your wrench(es) so you don't accidentally touch them between posts and also disconnect the negative terminal first when working on batteries. 





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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 7:46pm
Ah. I do connect the renogy solar panel to the batteries directly.  I bet one of these wires is a ground. Any idea how to tell which and what do I need to do with it?

I'm open to instruction on how I should be connecting the renogy panels. I have put them on one of the batteries matching positive and negative 
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 7:41pm
Mike's probably right. We have an extra pair of wires that are connected to a Z-amp connector at the other end of the trailer. We don't plan on using them, as we'll be connecting our solar directly.
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