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Topic ClosedWeight distribution hitch

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Paige View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Jul 2012
Location: Upstate NY
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Weight distribution hitch
    Posted: 14 Feb 2013 at 7:24pm
With our "new" equalizer hitch, we drove from Fort Myers to Key Largo,,,then up to Jacksonville, and then back to Fort Myers with nary a wiggle or a waggle. It was such a big difference from when we drove our pod down from New York with just that cranking sway bar thing. It was such a relief not to be worried about every truck passing us or if it was windy! Can't say enough good things about having an equalizer hitch!!
Paige and Pete
2010 177 - RPug
2012 Rav (six cylinder)
New York & Florida residents
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Joined: 04 Aug 2012
Location: GA lake country
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2013 at 2:00pm
The dealer didn't try to sell me anything else. What he said was "you don't need one for your Xterra and they don't work very well anyway." He was right, I really didn't have any sway issues with either the Xterra or the Tacoma. I bought the Andersen WD/anti sway hitch for added safety factor. I'm glad I did because now the ride 'feels' better.
Linda and Dan
Calley the golden retriever
R-pod 177 and a Tundra 8 cyl
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Joined: 26 Sep 2011
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2013 at 12:18pm
We purchased the $50 anti-sway device and it works just fine.  I think the dealer was looking for a big sale.  Remember what P.T. Barnum said, "There's a sucker born every minute."  Safe Travels.
Camper Bob and Camper Sue
Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund)
2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod)
2016 Lance 1685
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Joined: 19 May 2011
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2013 at 11:39am
Originally posted by danthoman

I've heard a lot of people, including my dealer, say the $50 anti sway bars that attach to the existing hitch don't work well, if at all.


They won't fix a sway issue if you have one (bad loading, improper trailer angle, etc). But it helps significantly to stabilize the trailer in wind and make the TV and trailer feel more like a single vehicle. If I forget to tighten mine I notice it right away (Not because of sway, it just feels sloppier without)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2013 at 10:27am
I've heard a lot of people, including my dealer, say the $50 anti sway bars that attach to the existing hitch don't work well, if at all.
Linda and Dan
Calley the golden retriever
R-pod 177 and a Tundra 8 cyl
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2013 at 7:58am
We drove our 177 from New York to Florida this past December. We had an antisway hitch that came with it and no matter how hard we cranked it, we still could go barely over 60 and with any winds or a big trucinpassingus, our pod swayed all over the place. We have lots of travel plans while here in Florida ( right now we are in Key Largo) and we didn't want to be worried while driving. Found an Equalizer Hitch 600/6000 on craigslist and bought it and installed it before we drove across Florida from Fort Myers. What a difference!!!! No swaying, no worries. We had o big camper before our RPod with an equalizer hitch and it was easier pulling it than the RPod,,,when it had the antisway crank thing. So glad we invested in the Equalizer!!!
W had called Forest River and they said the antisway would stop 90% of the swaying,,,don't believe them. if you are wondering whether to invest in an Equalizer, don't wonder, just do it. Our stress level went to zero!
Paige and Pete
2010 177 - RPug
2012 Rav (six cylinder)
New York & Florida residents
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2013 at 3:46pm
I'm planning on drilling a hole and bolting it just to be done with it.  The set screws should work if tightened enough.
Linda and Dan
Calley the golden retriever
R-pod 177 and a Tundra 8 cyl
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2013 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by danthoman

I'm fairly sure I bought the 3339 from hitchanything .com for $395 including shipping (I can't find my paperwork).  You can call andersen and ask, they were very helpful when I had questions.

To figure the drop/rise needed:

A. With your trailer level, measure from the ground to the bottom of the trailer coupler and subtract 1".
B. Then measure from the ground to the top of your receiver (top of 2" square).
C. The difference between the first and second measurements will tell you what size drop you will need (below).
If the difference is 4 "or less, then the 4" shank will work for your set up (in drop or rise position)
If the difference is between 4" and 8", then the 8" drop will work for your set up (in drop or rise position)
You can add up to an extra 1/2" if your trailer tongue load is greater than 600 lbs.

I did not need to add or drop links but I did need to move the surge brake coupler because it wasn't center on the frame and interfered with the bracket.  I also moved it a few inches toward the pod just for my convenience.  Just one metal screw so it's not a problem.  The only problem I've had is the frame brackets sliding forward because I didn't tighten the set screws enough. 


Thanks, That's what it looked like to me also, just need to move the surge brake mount out of the way. Is it necessary to weld the bracket to the frame (or drill and bolt it) or  can it be tightened enough to hold the bracket's position on the frame?
Wayne
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2013 at 3:09pm
I'm fairly sure I bought the 3339 from hitchanything .com for $395 including shipping (I can't find my paperwork).  You can call andersen and ask, they were very helpful when I had questions.

To figure the drop/rise needed:

A. With your trailer level, measure from the ground to the bottom of the trailer coupler and subtract 1".
B. Then measure from the ground to the top of your receiver (top of 2" square).
C. The difference between the first and second measurements will tell you what size drop you will need (below).
If the difference is 4 "or less, then the 4" shank will work for your set up (in drop or rise position)
If the difference is between 4" and 8", then the 8" drop will work for your set up (in drop or rise position)
You can add up to an extra 1/2" if your trailer tongue load is greater than 600 lbs.

I did not need to add or drop links but I did need to move the surge brake coupler because it wasn't center on the frame and interfered with the bracket.  I also moved it a few inches toward the pod just for my convenience.  Just one metal screw so it's not a problem.  The only problem I've had is the frame brackets sliding forward because I didn't tighten the set screws enough. 
Linda and Dan
Calley the golden retriever
R-pod 177 and a Tundra 8 cyl
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duck42 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2013 at 2:24pm
Dan:
Glad to see your post, I have been considering purchasing the Andersen Weight distribution hitch. Is the model # 3339 the correct one for an RPOD? Did you have to add or take of any chain links in the installation?
Wayne
duck42
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