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Joined: 28 May 2018
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery
    Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 3:24pm
What battery do most of y’all use on your pods.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 3:28pm
I use two 6V 220AH golf cart batteries connected in series. Flooded, not AGM or Gel. GC2 case size. That is the largest size that fits in the tongue battery rack.  

But I boon dock a lot. If you are mostly connected to a pedestal you don't need that much battery capacity. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 3:28pm
I use a single battery. RV/Marine Deep Cycle, 4 years old.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 5:46pm
Most will tell you it depends on usage. For the first 2 years of use in my 17 1/2 179 I used a series 27 deep cycle and it was more than adequate. The lights on the later model Rpods are all LED, the radio, fridge (on propane), furnace, and electric ignition on appliances take very little 12V therefore I never wanted for power. A 50amp solar panel usually could top off the battery before the next evening. This this fall we decided to see Yellowstone in the snow, so did a 4/season prep on the unit complete with heater pads on exposed pipes and I added a small 22qt freezer that also runs on 12v to increase capacity of the fridge. The 1 series 27 battery proved to be inadequate to say the least. I am now on the fence between the 2 6v so many in the RV world like and 2 deep cycle series 24 wired in parallel. I boondock as well and do like the idea if I have a battery failure in my TV I would have the option of swapping in one of the trailer batteries. I also have a 2000I Honda to supplement the DC setup and run the A/C appliances. Hope this helps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 6:07pm
Currently we own a pair of 12v Interstate deep cycle, group size 24 batteries that are going to have their 9th birthday in March 2020.  I never thought they would last this long and said years ago as I posted a similar question that I would replace with a pair of 6v. golf cart batteries.  That was 5 years ago, and now  . . . . I haven't changed my mind on that.  We were gone the whole month of September in CO and UT and boondocked the majority of the time, being in national parks.  We can go 6 days with our 2 batteries, night temps were often in the mid 30's to mid 40's so the furnace was the major culprit in draining the batteries, plus the fact I like to sleep in my 177 w/o ice on my nose in the morning.  We change out each battery when the voltage reads 12.3, don't want to take it lower than that, maybe that is why they have lasted as long as they have.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 6:13am
Just a little battery 101.

If you have a choice, connecting 2 6V batteries in series is better that 2 12V ones in parallel. In a series configuration there is only one path for current to take in and out of the batteries, so they get charged and discharged equally all the time. In a parallel configuration there are two current paths, so one battery inevitably gets exercised more than the other one. This gets worse as the batteries age and start to have more variation in cell internal resistances. 

If you do need to have batteries in parallel, take the positive output cable from one battery and the negative from the other, that will reduce (but not eliminate) the current imbalance between the two. 

One other point, deep cycle batteries are not designed the same as SLI (starting, lights, and ignition) automotive batteries. SLI batteries have many more thinner battery plates so there is a lot of surface area that can produce the high currents a starter needs. But because the plates are thinner they don't have much capacity to cycle deeply. Deep cycle batteries have fewer thicker plates so they can't produce high currents, but the thicker plates are much more tolerant of cycling.

The "marine" batteries are a compromise between the two, so they can both start an engine while still having some cycling capacity. But like all compromises they don't do either job as well as could be. Since trailer batteries are never called upon to produce the kind of high currents a starter takes, a true deep cycle battery is a better choice for our purposes.  


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 8:59am
Well said Offgrid! Same point I would have made yet you said much better.

Jato: I agree that charging within the 'real' usage rates extends the life of a battery. I use a voltage chart to check my SOC (at rest). I use FLA's and run only to 12.4 (with the occasion of a 12.3).

I'm a pretty firm believer that 12v's should only be drawn to 75% SOC and 6v's to 50%. My last set of 12v's lasted me 14yrs+ staying within this guideline. This is my second year using 6v's.

My choice this time around was a pair of Duracell 230ah 6v's. This gives me a usable rate of just over 100ah (SOC to only 50%). 

I am also a fan of doing a Power Audit to determine just what 'you' need. I'm finding I have far more then I've required. Between TV and Solar charging, I would have been fine in a 60-80ah range.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 9:12am
[QUOTE=Olddawgsrule] Well said Offgrid! Same point I would have made yet you said much better.

Jato: I agree that charging within the 'real' usage rates extends the life of a battery. I use a voltage chart to check my SOC (at rest). I use FLA's and run only to 12.4 (with the occasion of a 12.3).

I'm a pretty firm believer that 12v's should only be drawn to 75% SOC and 6v's to 50%. My last set of 12v's lasted me 14yrs+ staying within this guideline. This is my second year using 6v's.

My choice this time around was a pair of Duracell 230ah 6v's. This gives me a usable rate of just over 100ah (SOC to only 50%). 

Question, How did you arrive purchasing the Duracell over Trojan brand?  Being a golf course guy our Yamaha's use a 48 volt system (6 - 8 volt batteries) and as far as I knew Trojan is supposedly the best you can get.  Do the two offer the same amount of AH when wired in series?  I thought the Trojan T 105 or 120 offer 120 AH whereas the Duracell you state give you a usable rate of just over 100 AH or am I just reading your post incorrectly?   Thanks, I appreciate your expertise in this area and I know the day will come when I will be retiring my 'old' batteries with some fresh 6 volt ones.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 12:14pm
Good info Offgrid, thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2019 at 12:53pm
Originally posted by jato

 
Question, How did you arrive purchasing the Duracell over Trojan brand?  Being a golf course guy our Yamaha's use a 48 volt system (6 - 8 volt batteries) and as far as I knew Trojan is supposedly the best you can get.  Do the two offer the same amount of AH when wired in series?  I thought the Trojan T 105 or 120 offer 120 AH whereas the Duracell you state give you a usable rate of just over 100 AH or am I just reading your post incorrectly?   Thanks, I appreciate your expertise in this area and I know the day will come when I will be retiring my 'old' batteries with some fresh 6 volt ones.

Bang for the buck theory on purchasing. For the higher $$ for the Trojan's I would hope it's a thicker plate, but I don't know for certain. I could find anywhere I could compare build spec's. I saw the Duracell weighed more (I thought the Trojan would have if the plates were thicker). From there it was Warranty and ah rating (well and some reviews..). Then cost. Duracell won. The T-105's and my Duracell Ultra's spec's are very close.

My dual Duracells are rated at 230ah each (at 6v's). As you know when wiring in series, voltage goes up and amperage remains. So now I have dual at 12v's and still the 230a rating. A 6V FLA should not be drawn below 50% (if you wish them to last), so that divides the 230ah in half, 115ah. I tend be conservative on my values, knowing things are not always as stated, and say I have 100ah usable power. 

Hope that helps.


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