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Topic ClosedINVERTER BATTERY CHARGING
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TEDDY View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Oct 2017
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Posts: 94 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: INVERTER BATTERY CHARGING
    Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 8:56am
2017 r-Pod 178 - I'm not sure the inverter is charging the battery.
With shore power connected, I read only 12.7 vdc at the battery, and a multi-meter on the red battery cable registers less than 1/2 amp (in the noise level of the meter).
When connected to the car's system (engine running) I read 12.9 vdc and 7 amps.
With only a battery charger connected I get 14+ vdc and 2.5 amps.

Looking at the inverter panel (cover off) all the fuses I can see are OK - all their indicating lights are lit.  With shore power connected, there appears to be only 12vdc from ground to the bottom cable lugs.

I had to buy a batter charger to use when camping in MN two weeks ago - even connected to shore power the 12 vdc system flickered and almost died.  I think I towed the previous two days with the 12vdc cutoff switch off.

Is there a way other than what I've done to check the inverter for its ability to charge the battery?
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 9:10am
I don't know the answer to your question, but it might help if you end up calling someone at a dealership or shop to know that what you're talking about is the converter. Inverters take 12v DC and change it to 120v AC (most commonly, at least for the purpose of this discussion).  Converters take 120v AC and change it to 12v DC.  Best I can tell, the names are arbitrary, but they are what they are.

There's a fuse or breaker in there somewhere that protects the converter from the battery being connected backwards.  Sorry, I don't know where or what it looks like.  Could be that, or you could indeed have a bad converter.

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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 9:42am
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas


There's a fuse or breaker in there somewhere that protects the converter 

There's a auto breaker inline to the battery. Mine's up front/driver's side under (exposed). Hopefully someone can say how to test it. I found it while inspecting the undercarriage and googled it. 
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Posts: 66 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 3:37pm
Check the voltage at the fuse panel with a meter should read normally 13.6. If lower than 13.2 most likely a converter problem. If disconnected from shore power check resting battery voltage at the battery 12.7 is a full battery. The entire thing is more complicated but you are in the preliminary stages of troubleshooting.
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 3:41pm
First off, an inverter is used to take DC 12V power and output AC 120V power. The RPods (with the exception of possibly the newer models) do not come with an inverter.

What may not be working is the Converter. The Converter takes AC 120V power and outputs DC 12V power (actually varies a bit for charging the batteries, but I'm generalizing). If you look in the center of your power panel between the 120V breakers and the 12V fuses, there are two 40A fuses. These are to protect the converter as they will blow if the battery polarity is connected in reverse, even for a second. Check those.

There are troubleshooting steps for the WFCO converters on the wfcoelectronics.com web site. Here is a direct link to a troubleshooting chart:

I hope this helps.
StephenH
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 4:42pm
+1, spot on advice.
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Posts: 966 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 5:37pm
Yes, it's a converter not an inverter. Just so we are all on the same page.

But inside the unit:
Looking at the inverter panel (cover off) all the fuses I can see are OK - all their indicating lights are lit.

Those red LEDs are supposed to be unlit, if they are lit, then that indicates blown fuses.

Pull the fuses and look closely, are they blown or are they good?
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Posts: 94 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 5:57pm
Thanks - printed out the flow chart -  will try it out tomorrow.  I'll let you know if it works .....
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 6:48pm
+1 to Podwerkz. If you see LEDs glowing, that is an indicator of a blown fuse It seems backwards since one would think that a light indicates something is working, but it is just the opposite. I hope you get it diagnosed. I had to replace the converter in ours. Depending on how old your RPod is, the converter may still be under warranty. If it is, go on WFCO's web site and get a return authorization to get it repaired/replaced. I had a situation where ours went out while we were on a trip so I ordered a replacement. After we got back, I sent the bad one off and got one that now travels with us as a spare in case the currently installed one goes bad.
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Posts: 94 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2019 at 9:58am
Have a friend who fixes vending machines for a living .... asked him to take a look at my screwed up system. We metered the 12 batty connected, the batty terminals open circuited (disconnected + lead), charging current from the WECO unit, etc. Weird readings - some good, mostly inconsistent. Verified AC to the WFCO unit, but DC out was intermittent.

Removed 2 screws and slid out the rectifier - at that point there was DC output - but then it went away. Removed the circuit board to get a better look at the board's components - while doing so, we saw an arc on the bottom of the board where the flow solder connections are. Disconnected the battery (the 120VAC was already disconnected) and removed the board from its supports. One solder connection on the bottom was black - obviously it has been arcing at least the one time we saw it, and probably at many other times. we could wiggle the component lead sticking out of the board bottom with a finger.

Re-soldered that lead's blob and replaced the ground and other wires we had disconnected to get the board out.

DC output was now consistent and correct - 13.4vdc at the open ckt batty term, all the lights worked, no flickering.

Replaced the rectifier, placing a slim piece of foam rubber between the board support and the top of the plastic tray the rectifier was mounted on, then another between that tray and the floor of the rectifier compartment.

All is now OK. My friend saved me the $300 it would have cost to have a dealer fix this problem - they certainly would not have attempted to fix a solder joint, so it would have been $200 for a new rectifier and probably $100 for their labor.

We'll be taking our friend and his wife out to dinner!!
Teddy
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