My version of axle support plan B |
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Topic: My version of axle support plan B Posted: 09 May 2019 at 8:18am |
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What about a round tube as opposed to either flat or diamond?
If a round tube were used, could one drill through the existing riser and then weld the tube to the riser instead of building a new riser?
Since I don't have the skill to do this myself, I would be a customer for such an item. As for other points of failure, in my case it was the loss of camber. Bearing wear might have also had some part but the symptoms (excess wear on the inside edge of the tires and visual tilt of the tires when viewed from the front or back) led me to feel the problem was not in the spindles, rubber cords, or torque arms. If I had a good line-up on a place that could have fixed the axle for less than I had to pay for replacing it, I would have done that instead, but I still would want some sort of reinforcement. to help prevent the problem from happening again.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Posted: 09 May 2019 at 9:38am | ||
[/QUOTE] Neither do I. The u-bolted 3x3 angle is about my limit. It does the same job, just doesn't look as pretty. Your failure was almost certainly the axle tube. The giveaway is not having any crown left in the tube. That is a bent axle tube. I'm not sure some of the other possible failure scenarios (say a bent torque arm) couldn't also cause negative camber though. And we have a couple of cases floating around where the tube doesn't appear to be bent or decambered but the trailer is sitting much lower on one side than the other. Those sound like maybe damaged rubber cords. The majority seem to be bent tubes though. |
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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SC for Huskers
Senior Member Joined: 22 Feb 2017 Location: Goose Creek, SC Online Status: Offline Posts: 144 |
Posted: 09 May 2019 at 4:05pm | ||
Marwayne, do you remember the size of the tube you used on the out rigger? Im thinking of getting a 2x4 riser and punching a diamond shape in it so as "Offgrid said" to go from end to end one piece. Then place all the hardware in the middle and ends. Input anyone?
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Happy Traveling,
Tom 2017 172pod 2011 F150 STX |
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marwayne
Senior Member Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1002 |
Posted: 09 May 2019 at 4:13pm | ||
The tubing between the risers is 3x3 1/4" wall, The out riggers are 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 1/4" wall. I needed the extra space to get a washer and a nut in-between the axle and the outrigger.
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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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marwayne
Senior Member Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1002 |
Posted: 09 May 2019 at 5:27pm | ||
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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marwayne
Senior Member Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1002 |
Posted: 10 May 2019 at 12:30pm | ||
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Posted: 10 May 2019 at 1:12pm | ||
Marwayne, what dia bolts are they? I’ll look it up but I recommend you take the axle to an axle shop and have them recamber it for you. Putting enough force to straighten it the way it sounds like you’re thinking is highly likely to bend the extensions you made first. It’s going to require around 3-4 thousand pounds to do it.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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marwayne
Senior Member Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1002 |
Posted: 10 May 2019 at 1:29pm | ||
1/2" I went there they told me, ones there bend you have to replace them.
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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:42am | ||
Should be about 32 fl lb max dry or 24 lubricated assuming a standard low carbon bolt and coarse threads. That ought to develop around 5000 lbs of force which the bolt can take but I doubt your support assembly can. So be careful not to bend something (like your frame rail ) If you can apply enough force (needs to be around that 5000 lb range) then that ought to bend the axle end back and remove the negative camber but don't leave that force on it, you wouldn't have any capacity left in the reinforcement assembly to handle any future bumps. I never asked my local shop if they could straighten my axle because it wasn't bent, but I know it can be done. toyanvil just had his done. So you might want to try calling around some other places to see if they'd be willing to give it a try. Good luck!
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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Toyanvil
Senior Member Joined: 15 Feb 2019 Location: Bakersfield Online Status: Offline Posts: 157 |
Posted: 11 May 2019 at 8:46am | ||
Marwayne, you need to find a good frame shop that works on trailers. If your axle is bent, it needs to be replaced. If your axle has lost it camber (it's now flat across) it needs to be aligned. The shop I used has a 50 ton press to align the axle. I would not use you supports to try and re-camber your axle, it needs to be done in between your frame rails and you will not be able to set the toe in. When the shop was done with mine, the tires are now plumb with the trailer checking with a digital level. I check mine after each trip, if it changes, even one degee I will add a center support like yours.
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