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Topic ClosedMy version of axle support plan B

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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: My version of axle support plan B
    Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 1:10pm
I read further along and see someone did ask the same question. Understand the points made for bending the steel. 

Looks like my second thought was better.. Glad to see you folks went through that and worked through it. 

Thank you for posting the link.
Now to read more of it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 12:22pm
My alternative is a bit more complicated since I fabricated brackets. However, the process of bending the angle using a tow chain and hydraulic jack would work if you simply wanted to bend it and then use the U-Bolts to clamp it in place. See my mods for how I did it.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 11:07am
Originally posted by offgrid

My solution? It does not require any welding. Just a 2x2x3/16 or 1/4 inch inch steel angle crowned in the center and clamped to the bottom of the axle tube at each end using 2 ubolts (4 total) each at a 45 degree angle to the vertical on opposite sides on the diamond axle tube. The ubolts are square, 1/2 inch dia with 3.5 inch jaw spacing. Here are the parts and where I bought them:


Www.uboltsdirect.com

Order ID: 306166791


(5T12-3.5-SQ) S08 - 1/2" x 3 1/2" Inside Width      $4.50 X 4 = $32.00
(5T1216) (Length: 6")                               +$1.00
(DN12SUW12) (Add Nuts & Washers: 1/2" Deep Nuts & U-Bolt Washers)
                                                    +$2.50
(B2162FF) U Bolt Tie Plate - 5/8" Hole X 3 1/2" Inside Width
                                                  $10.50 X 4 = $42.00
Be sure to measure your axle tube between the torque arms and subtract 1/4 inch so you have 1/8 inch clearance on each end when you bolt the angle up. The crown is 1/4-3/8 inch and has to be pressed into the el not the flats. If you have a trailer or frame shop nearby with a press they should be able to do it no problem. When you bolt the angle up keep the ubolts loose until you get all 4 nuts started.

Interesting thread and do like what you've done to get outboard support to the axle. In another thread (and I think mentioned above) is your axle re-enforcement. I ask, vs. having the angle bent, could you place a 1-2" section (piece) of the 1/4" steel in the middle, then clamp the ends? My mind says that would increase the support, but also says I've added stress already and possibly weaken it.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 2:24pm
My solution? It does not require any welding. Just a 2x2x3/16 or 1/4 inch inch steel angle crowned in the center and clamped to the bottom of the axle tube at each end using 2 ubolts (4 total) each at a 45 degree angle to the vertical on opposite sides on the diamond axle tube. The ubolts are square, 1/2 inch dia with 3.5 inch jaw spacing. Here are the parts and where I bought them:


Www.uboltsdirect.com

Order ID: 306166791


(5T12-3.5-SQ) S08 - 1/2" x 3 1/2" Inside Width      $4.50 X 4 = $32.00
(5T1216) (Length: 6")                               +$1.00
(DN12SUW12) (Add Nuts & Washers: 1/2" Deep Nuts & U-Bolt Washers)
                                                    +$2.50
(B2162FF) U Bolt Tie Plate - 5/8" Hole X 3 1/2" Inside Width
                                                  $10.50 X 4 = $42.00
Be sure to measure your axle tube between the torque arms and subtract 1/4 inch so you have 1/8 inch clearance on each end when you bolt the angle up. The crown is 1/4-3/8 inch and has to be pressed into the el not the flats. If you have a trailer or frame shop nearby with a press they should be able to do it no problem. When you bolt the angle up keep the ubolts loose until you get all 4 nuts started.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 1:58pm
Can you share your plans/drawing/parts list?
this looks like an easy mod that the earlier axle support, just need a welder  :-)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:57am
Originally posted by lostagain

That back yard trailer realignment video looks like an accident waiting to happen.  

And the attachment of the frame extension in the video by Happy makes me wonder whether welding the extension to 0.1" thick frame walls is really going to be strong enough to support the new axles.  But this is something for our highly qualified engineers and metal crafters to weigh in with their views.  

If I was going to try to put a new axle on our Pod with attachment points further outboard, I think I'd like to use some kind of a box or channel iron base attached under the existing frame that would not twist the frame members and would be strong enough to have its attachment points further outboard.  But this  is something that our very capable engineers and metal crafters should weigh in on.  Sadly, they didn't teach me any of that stuff in law school.  Embarrassed

You have the 100% right. Welding those extensions on the frame tubes isn't the best idea. The frame tube is going to get a lot of torque applied to it that way because the bump load doesn't act through the center of the tube like it does using the normal risers. So the frame tubes will tend to want to rotate outward at the bottom.  


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:32am
Originally posted by marwayne

I tried that , but you come to a point where you just lift the trailer. You would have to be able to somehow tie down the axle on both sides.

Take another look at the first video. The axle is tied down by the chains on both sides, which go from the axle, over the jack, and back to the axle on either side. So the jack just tensions the chains and pushes on the axle. Nothing should move or come off the ground. The angles the chains make with the axle need to be kept to about 45 degrees or so as the first video shows. Shallow angles will just result in the chains sliding along the axle. So, you'll end up bending a couple foot sections of the axle a little at a time.  The jack will probably need to be at least 10 tons capacity. 

I think its actually pretty safe if you leave the wheels on, which you'd want to do anyway so you can see the camber angle.  If the jack slips out of the chains it will just fall down. Chains aren't like wire rope or cables, they don't really stretch much so they're not going to fly around if the tension is released. Even so, if you try this, stay off to the side of the chains while operating the jack, and take it slow. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:33pm
That back yard trailer realignment video looks like an accident waiting to happen.  

And the attachment of the frame extension in the video by Happy makes me wonder whether welding the extension to 0.1" thick frame walls is really going to be strong enough to support the new axles.  But this is something for our highly qualified engineers and metal crafters to weigh in with their views.  

If I was going to try to put a new axle on our Pod with attachment points further outboard, I think I'd like to use some kind of a box or channel iron base attached under the existing frame that would not twist the frame members and would be strong enough to have its attachment points further outboard.  But this  is something that our very capable engineers and metal crafters should weigh in on.  Sadly, they didn't teach me any of that stuff in law school.  Embarrassed
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:12pm
I have to disagree with the weight the WDH puts on the trailer axle, I tow with a Tundra. I weight my pod with WDH and without, with the WDH on the pod weight 150# more
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2019 at 3:39pm
I'm one of the people who have a bent Lippert axle, but am resigned to just going thru tires more rapidly because of the estimated $800 replacement, there is no available axle-straightening shop around me. 

I just literally stumbled over this you-tube video, I have no idea of the reliability/accuracy of the guy's talk but it sure is interesting.



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