The 195 concerns

Edit: I just saw your TV specs which you posted while I was writing the message below. In your case, the Hayes Sway-Master or other electronic sway control would work quite well as you probably won't need a WD hitch.

Do you mean a sway bar or a weight distribution (WD) hitch with sway control? I thin you mean the WD hitch with sway control. If so, the answer is "maybe."

What vehicle do youi intend to use for towing?  Unless you have something like an F350 or equivalent Dodge or Chevy or other model, a WD hitch will help with ride feel as it will help transfer some of the weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle (TV). If your TV is front wheel drive, then a WD hitch is essential. If it is rear wheel drive or all wheel drive, then it might not be essential, but would still be helpful.

A lot of WD hitches incorporate sway control. The Equal-i-zer has 4-point sway control. The Fastway E2 hitch has 2-point sway control. The Andersen hitch does sway control differently by using friction at the ball for sway control. If you want to get a less expensive WD hitch, you could also opt for electronic sway control such as the Hayes Sway-Master which uses GPS and gyroscope sensors to detect sway and apply the trailer brakes before it gets out of control. There are other brands of electronic sway control also.

The advantage of a WD hitch with sway control or electronic sway control comes when you are backing. A friction sway bar works when you are moving forward in a relatively straight line. However, when backing it must be disengaged or you would be likely to damage your hitch or your trailer. It is better to have something you don't need to worry about.

One other consideration is that there needs to be 10% to 15% of the trailer's weight on the hitch to reduce the possibility of sway. Too little weight on the hitch ball can lead to sway. Too much can remove too much weight from the TV's front end leading to less control. Even so, you can do everything right and still have situations arise where you could have problems. We had an Equal-i-zer hitch and hit ice with a strong cross-wind. We had an accident which I described in a forum topic. After that, I got the Hayes Sway-Master and used it to give that extra bit of prevention. Then I changed hitches  for a Hensley Cub which is way overkill for the R-Pod but the sale price was acceptable and the Hayes advertising indicated that it would be better in the type of situation we encountered. Our daughter and son-in-law now have the Equal-i-zer so they will have it if and when they get a travel trailer for their family.

The bottom line is that I do recommend WD with sway control for towing. I don't recommend a friction sway bar. Electronic sway control is also something I would recommend above a friction sway bar even though the cost is significantly higher.

The old rule of thumb to keep the tongue weight at least 10% of the total trailer weight to eliminate sway tendency is pretty accurate for rPods. There have been cases of sway getting out of control with lighter tongue weights than that range. So, I suggest loading up an weighing the trailer and tongue so you know what you really have. Personally, I won't go below 11%. On the 195 like on my 179 the lightest tongue weight will probably occur when you have full water in the gray tank but none in the fresh tank.  

Then add the suspenders to the belt. The friction based sway control on some of the combined wdh/sway control hitches won't work without the wdh tensioned, which you don't need. So, as StephenH says, one of the electronic sway control systems might be the best for you. 

Now I have to go do my research. Because of mostly using a fifth wheel towing setup, I got to relearn towing. As they say in doing internet research you have kept me from going down to many rabbit holes.