wired for solar...sorta! (MC4s on the roof)

If that fails you can use a multimeter to trace which wire pair originates from the roof connection. You know that the wires are going to be routed to the battery somehow, so you don't need to tear into the roof connector. 

What I would suggest is to first use the voltage setting on your meter to see if there is already 12Vdc to the roof. If there is you know that those to wires are already connected to your battery. Start disconnecting wires until the 12V to the roof goes away. If nothing else is also getting disconnected at the same time then those are your two dedicated solar conductors and you can connect the solar terminals of your charge controller to them.

If you don't have 12Vdc at the roof connection point then you know the roof connection is not yet connected to the battery.  You can short the two connectors together on the roof and then use the ohms setting on your meter to see which pair of wires are coming from that point. Disconnect your battery while you're on ohms setting so you don't accidentally blow its internal fuse.  If you show very low resistance with the roof terminals shorted and infintite resistance with them disconnected then you've probably found the right pair. To confirm, remove the roof jumper, reconnect everything to the battery, and also connect the two wires you just found to the battery. Then, make sure that you get 12V to the roof with those two wires connected, and no voltage when they're disconnected, and that everything else stays connected.

And yes, 22AWG is way too small. I would hope they would use at least 14AWG for that. 

Please do let us know what you find. 

I have pulled out all the 'partitions' in the backs of all the cabinets on that side and there is nothing that appears to be cables to the MC4s. If they are there, they are buried deep.

The "zamp" port on my 2015 is directly connected to the smaller pair of battery connection cables, so i was also expecting that might be the same for yours. These look like they are about 12-14AWG btw, no way they should be 22 gauge. 

I'm also surprised that FR has gone to red and black cables. That is going to be really confusing and result in some blown fuses or worse. RV's are supposed to use the NEC wire color convention, which means that the neutral (negative) is supposed to be white. That's what mine has. 

If the roof terminals aren't connected to anything yet there is probably a place somewhere where you'll see a couple of pairs of unterminated wires where you are supposed to put the charge controller, there might be a label there as well. You might take a look around for that.  

Otherwise, I'd call FR and see what they can tell you.  You can try the dealer but they are often pretty clueless about this kind of thing. 

Good luck. 

Yeah my dealer is a decent guy, I've known them for awhile, but probably not the go-to guy for solar questions. And he is about 80 miles from me.

I'm fairly knowledgeable with solar, I've done several installs in the past, but this one 'little' issue has me stumped, and being that the unit is new to me, I'm learning as I go. There is a supicious looking 'boxed in' area in the upper cabinet behind the actual Go Power sticker, where the Furrion radio is, but I cant figure out how to get in there without just forcing the panels apart.

Yep the black and red (about 8 gauge I'm guessing) wires to the battery are red and black, and marked with little tags, 'battery positive' and 'battery negative'...no ambiguity there. Of course the house wiring is a lot of white ground wires to a ground busbar, and misc other colors on the AC side, plus romex style to the AC outlets.

Meanwhile I'm adding bubble levels, hanging pockets and little wire baskets, shelving racks, plastic totes, etc, so I'm getting misc things done. I ordered a few items for the trailer so I will be busy for a while, no real hurry on the solar install yet.