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Pushing70 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Simple Q re: Winterization
    Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 7:03am
I have read about several winterization techniques that call for some combination of draining, sucking antifreeze into the lines, flushing and re-draining, etc. etc.  Most all include a blowout using compressed air.

My simple question is, if I add antifreeze to a few gallons of fresh water in the tank and then run that through all the lines and fixtures before turning off the water pump and leaving the faucets open, why do I need a compressed air blowout? Or even draining the lines for that matter?  (I do not use the fresh water tank for drinking or cooking, BTW, and I live in a climate where low temps rarely get into the 20s.)

Thanks in advance,  Ely Star


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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 7:18am
You don't have to blow out the lines. It just removes more water then simply draining with the low points, thus reducing any dilution of the pink stuff. Your method will work, it just takes a lot more anti freeze, because you have to get enough into the holding tank to reach the pickup AND be concentrated enough to work. There is almost always "some" water in the holding tank, even after draining. The simplest method of winterizing is to:


Drain the FW holding tank
Drain and bypass the water heater
Set the water pump valve to winterization position
Stick hose in gallon jug
Turn on pump
Open taps one at a time until pink comes out
Don't forget the outside shower if equipped, or the toilet
Pour 1-2 cups of anti freeze into all the drains, and in the toilet bowl
Have beer (optional, wine, bourbon, kool aid)

The whole procedure will use about a gallon or a little more.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 7:32am
Got it. Thanks, Furpod!
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 7:53am
Furpod, I didn't see draining the low points on your list. I don't know if you think that is really required or not. 

I've done it both ways because I forgot to open them one time before running the antifreeze in. It really doesn't take much more antifreeze if you don't drain them, just a bit more run out the faucets to be sure its not too diluted, but I'd be afraid of leaving them closed and allowing plain water to sit in them all winter. 

Thoughts?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 8:04am
Pushing70 - If you know someone who knows how to winterize your trailer, get her to show you how.  If you don't, then it's worth the money to go to an RV service place and have them do it with you watching.  Once you see it done, all becomes more clear.  The plumbing system is designed for easy winterization and once you learn, it'll only take a few minutes to do.

And don't worry about 70.  Once you pass that land mark, it gets even better. ;--)


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 8:30am
Originally posted by offgrid

Furpod, I didn't see draining the low points on your list. I don't know if you think that is really required or not. 

I've done it both ways because I forgot to open them one time before running the antifreeze in. It really doesn't take much more antifreeze if you don't drain them, just a bit more run out the faucets to be sure its not too diluted, but I'd be afraid of leaving them closed and allowing plain water to sit in them all winter. 

Thoughts?


I covered draining the low points in my opening sentence.

But.. I have had my low points freeze solid down to 0F with pure water in them, and it didn't hurt them. We don't winterize to protect the lines. The lines and "plumbing" are PEX, and PEX rated, so freezing literally cannot hurt them.

BUT freezing can/will/does damage the fixtures. Along about a week or two before memorial day weekend (start of the official camping and pool season for many), you can expect a run on pump filter housings, toilet valves, and outdoor shower fixtures. Happens every year.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 9:19am
Originally posted by offgrid

Furpod, I didn't see draining the low points on your list. I don't know if you think that is really required or not. 

Thoughts?


BUT WHAT I TOTALLY FORGOT>>>

P Traps. You need to pour 1-2 cups of pink stuff in all the drains, and into the toilet bowl. This protects the "p trap". It's been 3 years now since I had to worry about them. Lance uses hepvo valves instead, so no p traps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 9:23am
I stopped using the RV antifreeze in the water system and only use it in the P-traps and holding tanks to prevent freeze damage. I found that it takes two or three tanks of fresh water to completely flush the foamy pink stuff out of the fresh water tank and if we use the camper during winter Chinook days that becomes a pain. 

So, if you have an air compressor it's easy to build a fitting using a air pressure regulator from Harbor freight for less than $10. A regulator is needed to adjust the pressure to around 30 PSI(my compressor goes to 120 PSI, which will damage the pump and toilet valve). 

Screw a Camco blow out plug($7) into the City Water inlet. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Blowout-Plug-with-Quick-Connect-36143/205808403

Attach the air regulator and air hose. Drain the HW tank & fresh water tank, low points and replace the plugs, then open a faucet and turn on the air. Alternate the hot and cold kitchen sink until nothing but air comes out. Do the same with the shower wand, bathroom sink and toilet. Move the air to the Black Tank flush water inlet and blow that out too. Pour a little bit of RV antifreeze in the shower drain, toilet, bath sink and kitchen sink....done. 

HF parts needed:




Once the water is drained, it's takes about 10 min to blow out the lines. Be thorough and you will not have any freeze damage issues. 

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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 9:33am
Originally posted by Motor7

I stopped using the RV antifreeze in the water system and only use it in the P-traps and holding tanks to prevent freeze damage. I found that it takes two or three tanks of fresh water to completely flush the foamy pink stuff out of the fresh water tank and if we use the camper during winter Chinook days that becomes a pain. 

So, if you have an air compressor it's easy to build a fitting using a air pressure regulator from Harbor freight for less than $10. A regulator is needed to adjust the pressure to around 30 PSI(my compressor goes to 120 PSI, which will damage the pump and toilet valve). 

Screw a Camco blow out plug($7) into the City Water inlet. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Blowout-Plug-with-Quick-Connect-36143/205808403

Attach the air regulator and air hose. Drain the HW tank & fresh water tank, low points and replace the plugs, then open a faucet and turn on the air. Alternate the hot and cold kitchen sink until nothing but air comes out. Do the same with the shower wand, bathroom sink and toilet. Move the air to the Black Tank flush water inlet and blow that out too. Pour a little bit of RV antifreeze in the shower drain, toilet, bath sink and kitchen sink....done. 

HF parts needed:




Once the water is drained, it's takes about 10 min to blow out the lines. Be thorough and you will not have any freeze damage issues. 



Just as a note..

If, during the camping season, you use your FW tank and pump, this method does nothing to protect the pump or it's filter.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 12:13pm
An interesting note about low point drains: The first year we did the traditional RV antifreeze thing opening the 3 way valve under the sink and using 1+ gallons to winterize the lines.  Since then, starting in 2012 we used the air compressor (60 psi) always having one line open so we don't overpressurize the lines, time to blow out going thru each line 2x was less than 1 minute.  After that I use 16 oz. total of rv antifreeze to winterize the 3 p traps.  It wasn't until 2016 that I found the low point drain plugs, I could not find them because there was 2" of foam that covered each one of them.  I only found them because the sticker said where they were so I got out my knife and cut through all the foam and found them.  So after blowing out the lines I decided to see how much water was left in the low point drains because I had never opened them before in the 5 years I owned the pod and had never had any leaks or issues. Result: upon opening there was 1 to 2 drops in each low point drain that was inside the cap.  I did this again in 2017 with the same results.  I don't plan on messing with them anymore as the air must blow out all the water, even to the end of the low point drain.
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