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Topic ClosedAxle reinforcement

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Axle reinforcement
    Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 11:49am
This post is a follow on to this topic, which contains a detailed discussion of the issues and load calculations.

GVWR>GAWR and Stabilizer Issuesfe

It applies to the 3500 lb Lippert "diamond" configuration axle only, and will only address stiffening the axle tube itself, and not any failure that might or might not occur in the spindles, torque arms, or rubber components. 

I had a 77.25 inch long piece of 3x3x3/16 steel angle cut and cambered (crowned) about 3/8 inch in the center. You need to be specific that the crown is made at a 45 degree angle to the angle flanges, pressing on the point or "heel" of the angle.  Be sure to measure your axle tube length and allow at least a 0.125 clearance at each end so the torque arm won't rub on the angle ends. The shop I went to specializes in trailer modifications but any shop with the appropriate size hydraulic angle cutter and press should be able to do it. It's not expensive, the fabbed piece cost me $30.

I ordered four 1/2 inch square U bolts, shackles, washers, and nuts from these very nice folks:



The U bolts need to have a jaw opening of 3.5 inches, I got 6 inch long ones, the shackle, washer and nut stack up is about 1.5 inches but you need some additional length to get things started. There is plenty of clearance under there. The U bolts should go on at 90 degrees to each other, 2 at each end, as close to the ends of the axle as possible while still allowing some clearance to the torque arms. The U bolts and hardware cost around $75. 

Of course, there is no way to ever "prove" that this reinforcement solves the axle bending problem, but if it is caused by the axle to frame attachments being too far inboard on the rPods, it should help significantly. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 12:10pm
Looks great! Will you be putting any clamps in the middle?
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 1:20pm
I don’t plan to, when you load the axle the middle will press down into the reinforcement angle, so clamps shouldnt be needed there.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 2:34pm
Any concern about rust between the axle and the steel bar?  
Chuck & Lyn
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 3:20pm
Yes for sure crw8sr, good point. 

I live on the OBX so I'm constantly fighting salt corrosion on everything. My thought is to seal the angle to the axle with a flexible adhesive sealant. I want to put a few miles on it first in case there is something that needs to be adjusted or modified. Any other suggestions are welcome. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 6:08pm
We have to deal with salt and other chemicals they put on our winter roads.  I wonder if Rustoleum would help.  

I think I'd like to tackle this mod.
Do you have pictures of the bar after it was cut and chambered before it was installed?  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 6:49pm
In the past I have used what used to be called "Duro Extend". The product was picked up by Loctite, and is now called Loctite Extend. What I used it on was metal that was already lightly rusted. The stuff goes on and looks milky white, but as it cures, it will turn the rust black. It acts as a primer for paint. I've also used it on raw steel (before rust).
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 7:45pm
Rustoleum makes Rust Reformer in a spray can. It works similarly in that it will convert light rust to a stable, paintable surface. Loose rust must be removed but light surface rust is okay.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2019 at 7:29am
crw8sr, I didn't take any photos of the angle before installing it, sorry.  But the curvature created by cambering the piece is only 3/8 of an inch so you can't really see it unless you sight down the angle. Otherwise than that its just a piece of 3x3 steel angle. 

Here is a discussion of camber on trailer axles. 


The Lippert axles come with some positive camber (that's why the center is about 3/8 inch higher than the ends so when they get loaded the camber angle doesn't become too negative. With the larger than normal axle end overhang on the rpods the forces on the axle trying to flatten it out are significantly more than if the mounting points were closer to the ends of the axles. Apparently these axles can often "lose their camber" over time and end up not springing back to their arched shape after sustaining heavy loads. 

I think the rust reformer is a good option. I need to go over my entire frame, especially the A frame and clean up the rust, so I'll probably  remove everything I can, brush and grind it, spray it and then reassemble. I think I'll also seal the edges of the angle to the axle at that time.

Another product I use here in the OBX is Fluid Film. Good stuff made from lanolin so nontoxic and won't ruin your clothes. You do have to apply it a couple of times a year because it is water soluble. I use my compressor and spray the bottoms of all my vehicles with it. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 12:54pm
Here are a couple of thoughts/questions: 

Do you know what type of steel the Diamond tube is and what kind of annealing they do to it? It should be a type of "spring steel" which seems likely since it is designed to flex, then return to it's original shape. The 3x3 angle is not likely to be spring steel at all and could be just plain old "soft steel". So if and when it bends, it's going to stay in it's new shape. I think there might be a possibility that the two will counter act each other and it might be in a negative way. 


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