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Topic ClosedI was Sold the wrong WDH...What effects???

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TearlessTom View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: I was Sold the wrong WDH...What effects???
    Posted: 03 Feb 2019 at 9:58pm
Hi, Its me again.  

I told you I had lots of questions.

We picked up our R-Pod 180 last Wednesday.  I thought the WDH seemed to be very robust but having no experience with them I "ASSUMED" the dealer was selling me the correct size.

I spent a large portion of the weekend getting to know the R-Pod, and buying needed starter items and installing the rear stabilizers.

Today we hooked it up and drove in on the interstate a bit and went to a new Bucees that just opened up down the road. (first in our area OMG it the size of Walmart)  Anyway I was looking for some level ground to take measurements

The difference between my front are rear sprung with Weight Distribution  vs unsprung with both fresh and gray water mostly full   +1/8th inch and when I filled the gas tank on trunk they were basically neutral.

My TV is a 2014 Ford F-150 XLT  2-Wheel Drive

The trailer has a slight upward tilt at the tongue.  

It has 6 washers installed.
 I believe the ride could be better.  Not terrible but It is not a neutral feel. I think partial because of the slight upward tilt (less than half a bubble on a level)

But when I pulled out the paperwork I see they installed a 800-1200 lb hitch.   Quite a bit of overkill.

Will this hitch being rated so heavy effect the drive and handling or should I be grateful that I have a hitch that is rated for the full potential of my truck?

How do I correct the upward tilt?  Remove 1-2 washers?

Should I take it back and ask for a lighter  system?





Tearless Tom
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2014 Ford F-150 XLT 2WD 5.0
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 12:33am
You may have too heavy of a hitch, but with the F-150 you could probably live with it. It will be a bit too stiff for the R-pod, but it will work.

How much is the upward tilt? When the trailer is disconnected, the top of the ball to the ground on the truck should be roughly equal to the top of the hitch to the ground. IOW, the trailer tongue and the ball on the hitch should be about the same height (disregarding the number of washers for now).

The number of washers will determine how much weight you're going to transfer. More washer = more weight. Fewer washers = less weight. I'm guessing you should only need a couple of washers, if that.

We have 2 (thick) washers on our E2 600/6000 hitch, and the transfer is pretty good.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 6:51am
If you are nose up once set up, the hitch head needs to come down on the extension, you may need one with more drop then the one you have now.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 7:08am
Tearless Tom, the dealer who sold you your hitch my have done just fine by you. Remember that the wdh lifts both the trailer tongue weight and the rear of your tow vehicle. 

The height of the ball is what sets the trailer tilt, that height setting and be adjusted independently from the hitch load rating. You do want the trailer level when the wdh is connected and tensioned so that you don't have to disconnect in order to have a level trailer overnight while travelling.

The front fender height is set by the spring bar tension. You should be able to adjust that tension to get the front fender height back to what it was when the TV was unloaded. By doing that you are assuring that the weight on the front axle is back where it should be for safe towing. Don't worry about the rear fender height, your objective is not to get the TV completely level and your rear axle will end up with more weight on it than without the trailer. 

What is affected by the rating of the wdh is the stiffness of the spring bars. If they're too stiff that will show up as a bouncy ride quality. That bounciness will be reduced the more load you have on your trailer tongue and in the rear of your tow vehicle. 

So before you readjust anything I suggest that you get your TV and trailer loaded up the way you will actually be using it so your maximum tongue weight is what it really will be. Otherwise you'll wind up doing the adjustment multiple times. 

I would for example drain the gray tank. That tank is behind the trailer axle so filling it reduces the tongue weight. If you plan on carrying full fresh water then fill the fresh tank up.  If you plan on any of the dual battery/propane cylinder mods then install those. Ditto with a better mattress if you're planning that. Load and fuel up your TV as you plan to travel as well. 

Then go through the wdh setup and adjustment process again, getting the trailer level and the front fenders back to their unloaded starting point. After that's all set, take the rig out on the road and see what you think of the ride. If it still feels too bouncy to you, then drop down one level on your whd spring bar rating. 

Good luck and enjoy!





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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 11:01am
Originally posted by furpod

If you are nose up once set up, the hitch head needs to come down on the extension, you may need one with more drop then the one you have now.


I am already at the bottom of the hitches extension.

My Ball and my level trailer are very close to equal. Probable about 1/4 inch.

I understand that the gray will remove some of the tongue weight but I was trying to simulate my approx. travel weight.   As I said in a previous post I come from a motorcycle camping background so I know how to pack light. Carrying all my gear I still wouldn't add much over 100lbs if that.

I think my distribution set up is pretty much where I need to be. I just feel the trailer nose should be down slightly about an inch maybe a tad more to level.   I think the springs are too heavy as I do feel a little bit of bounce and more sway than I think it should.    I don't have either when pulling my bass boat. (about 2,000 lbs)   

My front end:
unladen was 36.625
Laden trailer tongue only 36.5
Laden with tow bar spring it was 36.6875 @ 7 links.

Rear End:
Unladen 38.375
Laden trailer tongue only 37.5
Laden trailer w/ spring bar 37.25

Tongue height was 22.5 level. I forgot to measure it when attached to truck.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 11:48am
Seems odd that tensioning the wdh bars would decrease the front axle loading, which is what seems to be happening based on the increase in body height at the front axle. You might want to try tensioning the wdh a bit more to try to get it back around the 36.5 inches you had without the trailer.

If you’re lightly loading the rig as you plan to do travelling then you may not need a wdh at all for your setup. But if sounds like you might be experiencing some sway so would probably still need a way to address that.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Seems odd that tensioning the wdh bars would decrease the front axle loading, which is what seems to be happening based on the increase in body height at the front axle. You might want to try tensioning the wdh a bit more to try to get it back around the 36.5 inches you had without the trailer.

If you’re lightly loading the rig as you plan to do travelling then you may not need a wdh at all for your setup. But if sounds like you might be experiencing some sway so would probably still need a way to address that.


sorry rechecked my wife's notes and she does not think in a linear fashion like I do. Notes all over the place. Me I like spreadsheets.

Anyway I corrected the Numbers if you would like to take another look at them.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by TearlessTom

Originally posted by furpod

If you are nose up once set up, the hitch head needs to come down on the extension, you may need one with more drop then the one you have now.


I am already at the bottom of the hitches extension.



You can, and do, if needed, buy a longer/more drop, extension. My sister is towing her Pod with a F250, she needed 9 1/2 inches of drop to get her Pod level when hooked up.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 12:43pm
Your numbers also, still don't make sense.. Take the rear..

you say that with the trailer hooked up, your measurement was 37.5, then when you tensioned the WDH the rear LOWERED to 37.25.. They can't and don't work that way.. when you apply tension to the bars, they RAISE the rear of the truck, and lower the front of the truck.

Your front is the same, you show that the front of the truck went down when you put the hitch on, and UP when tension was applied...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 1:13pm
Originally posted by furpod

Your numbers also, still don't make sense.. Take the rear..
you say that with the trailer hooked up, your measurement was 37.5, then when you tensioned the WDH the rear LOWERED to 37.25.. They can't and don't work that way.. when you apply tension to the bars, they RAISE the rear of the truck, and lower the front of the truck.
Your front is the same, you show that the front of the truck went down when you put the hitch on, and UP when tension was applied...


I know it doesn't make sense.. Is it possible with the springs being that strong 800-1200 lb that it is forcing the entire truck down. and the nose of the trailer up?

Why would my unhooked truck hitch and the trailer leveled measure almost the same. fraction of inch difference but then when hooked up it is pointing slightly upward. ??
Tearless Tom
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