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Topic ClosedScrews for walls

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Stoker177 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Screws for walls
    Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 9:48am
Hi All,

I know there are a few forums with this topic but I am having trouble filtering to find the correct, simple answer.

What screws do you use to hang things in your pod? Length and style would be great. 

let me know your formula to hold (relatively) heavy kitchen accessories while not putting massive drywall screws in your walls.

Many Thanks to all of you!
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 10:29am
If you're talking inside walls, which are hollow, these work great:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-5-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-5-16-in-Dia-Standard-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183711

They come in sizes for different wall thicknesses, so make sure you get the ones for 1/8"-1/4" walls (the link above points to the correct ones).

I discovered that they even work when attaching something to the underside of the cabinet above the dinette in our 179. The space between that surface and the cabinet "floor" is a fraction of an inch, but I was able to insert the Togglers anyway (without drilling out the cabinet floor). I had to get shorter screws though.

I don't know how easily they'd displace the foam insulation in outside walls, but I suspect they'd would.
Alan
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Stoker177 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 1:34pm
Thank You,

Do those put a big hole in the wall? I was trying to get away with no drywall anchors. Do you know what kind of damage these leave behind?


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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 2:04pm
We use a 3M heavy duty double sided tape and a course treaded screw(s).  It comes in different "strengths" and is available at the big box hardware stores.  The only problem is getting the tape off later, but if your patient, some denatured alcohol will dissolve the glue.  The hole from the screw is small so it's easy to fill with caulk and blends in with the wall covering.  

The walls are pretty flimsy so you really shouldn't mount heavy loads on them.  In other posts, one member noted that the aluminum frame material is only 1/16th" thick, thus if you mount to a frame member you're really not gaining much unless you have a bunch of screws to spread the load.  

With the tape/screw system we use, we've never had a load too heavy that it came off.  My best guess, or perhaps hallucination, is that we've never loaded over 10 lbs. on anything we affixed to the walls.  We got a couple of Ikea SS boxes that hang on a rod attached to the wall over the sink and the rod shows no signs of coming loose.  

Personally, I am not a fan of large molly bolt or drywall fasteners in these 1/8" thick walls.  They really deface the surface if you ever want to remove them and they are only as strong as the wall to which they're attached.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 2:07pm
Originally posted by Stoker177

Thank You,
Do those put a big hole in the wall? I was trying to get away with no drywall anchors. Do you know what kind of damage these leave behind?


That's the only downside: they require a 5/16" hole. I only use them where I don't foresee the need for them going away.

Industrial strength Velcro works too, but you're likely to take the finish off the walls when removing it unless you're really careful and use something to weaken the adhesive.

The double-sided tape idea isn't bad. You need something to reinforce the screw; just drilling a hole and inserting a screw isn't very secure.
Alan
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Stoker177 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 2:35pm
Hey there Lostagin,

Thank you for the post.

I am not understanding what the double sided tape is doing. I assume it is to work in tandem with the screw so the screw is not holding the entire load?


Are you using these from Ikea?

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90282076/

If so, that is exactly what I am trying to hang

Looking forward to you reply,
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 5:00pm
Stoker, when you use mounting tape, you need a base that has a surface area adequate to get a strong connection between the thing you're mounting the tape, and the wall.  For example, I relocated a couple of towel racks that had a ss disk bases of about 1 1/4" in diameter with a couple of screw holes in each.  I put the tape on the back of the disks cut to fit.  Then I stuck the racks to the walls, after which I put screws in the holes, squishing the mounting tape between the wall and the base disk.  I haven't measured it's failure point, but I'm confident it will hold at least 10 lbs. or more.

The tape wouldn't work so well for something that has little surface area around the fastener, such as book case that's open in the back and is hooked to the wall.

The Ikea mounting bar looks like it may work quite nicely with just the tape.  I didn't see any holes for mounting screws in the Ikea info.  This tape is pretty strong, provide that the surface on which it attaches is very clean and dry.  Use denatured alcohol to clean the surfaces. If there are screw holes in the mounting bar, all the better.  And if you put as strip of the 3M mounting tape on the back of the bar and mount it with screws, it would be plenty strong for the containers that go with the rack, even if you filled them with little gold bars. 

Here's a link for the type of tape I used.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-11-1-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-Case-of-8-414-LONGDC/205507680  They sell it by the roll as well as by the case as noted in the link.  

Hope that helps.  If you want to talk on the phone about it, send me a p.m. and I'll send you my #.


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Fred & Maria Kearney
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onesojourner View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2018 at 11:06am
I am far from an expert but it appears the walls are made of something similar to hardboard, or a wood fiber resin impregnated board. It appears the factory had no issues just using self tapping sheet metal screws to install the fire extinguisher. This fiber board is glued to the closed cell foam / styrofoam. It holds screws much better than drywall.
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2018 at 6:15pm
Here is my 2 cents worth. I have installed towelbars and many cabinets in our pod and all with coarse thread ( grabbers ) drywall screws. When I posted the pics of my mods 7 years ago the sky was falling. I was told the pod will be to top heavy, the screws will work themselves loose and after 1 or 2 trip all my cabinets will be on the floor. Well it has bin 8 years and 30.000 miles and everything is just fine. So to prove a point I did a test. I attached a strip of wood with 1 screw to a 1/8"piece of plywood, the scale shows 37.5 pounds, the screw pulled out at 44 pounds. If you ever take the screws out just put a matching button in the hole.





If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:26am
Very informative, Marwayne.

I think you should take the next step in testing the fastener retention capacity of the walls and do the same test with the wall material in a vertical position and a little leverage on the retention screw.  And just for fun, do several tests with the various fastening systems people have suggested.  But to make the test more realistic, you need to move the force point away from the wall to duplicate actual field conditions.  In fact, you could do the test with the weight being applied at, for example, 3cm, 5cm, and 10cm, to duplicate the forces applied by towel racks, shelves, etc.

I'm sure the engineers in our group could describe the testing format far better than I [sadly they didn't offer physics in law school, though it would have been very useful along with an acting class].

Just a thought.
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
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