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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001

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GoofyNewfie View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 24 May 2010 at 8:32pm
Hi-ho fellow podders... well, we did it.. took to the woods this past long Canadian weekend. had a great time and the new Rpod 172 was awesome...  even sorta figured out installing the r-dome... (still trying to figure out where to properly install the 6 clips that come down the side.. but that's for another thread ;-) )
my delema is figuring out the hot water heater... some people say its propane operater, and some say it's electric... and some say both... thus my confusion..
here is what happened... filled the water tank and turned on the hot water faucet until the air stopped spitting... turned on the switch on the panel infron the the sink and the reset light came on.. after about a min, the light went out... I am assuming that the water heater was on... using propane?? or AC??? not sure... none the less, the water never did get hot... not even warm... it didn't have a chill to it though, like the cold waer faucet.. I would say that it was maybe luke warm...I left it like this over night and the next day, the temp was still the same...
is my electric element burned out?? do I have one? if I do, how does it affect propane operation... better yet, how do I distinguish between it being on propane or AC??
 
If someone has the time, can they educate me on the water heater?? is there a temp control somewhere that needs to be turned up??
 
in need of some serious education.... :-(
 
GoofieNewfie
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:30pm
Hi GoofieNewfie,
 
The water heater works on both, propane and hydro. To work on propane one needs of course propane, if the pilot light went out after you switched it on to propane the heater should be on and working, if ignition failed as a rule the light should come back on.
 
On hydro it works only on 120 volts, not 12 volt battery power. You can run propane and hydro at the same time for quicker recovery. On hydro alone it is not all that quick in recovering.
 
As an aside, while the pod is parked at home and plugged into hydro to keep the battery charged it is a good idea to switch the hydro to the water heater off, just in case that there is no water in the heater. This way the heating element wont get burned out.
Heinrich and Elly
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2010 at 8:13am
To use the electric to heat the water you need to turn on the switch shown in the picture.  The red arrow is pointing to it.  The inside switch is for the propane.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2010 at 11:54am
Sound to me like the bypass valves aren't set correctly.  Others have reported lukewarm water until they turned the valves.  Find your water heater, and next to it will be 3 valves.  One on the cold water line going in, one on the hot water line coming out, and one on a short pipe that runs between the hot and cold.
 
In "normal" summer mode the hot and cold valve handles should be parallel (open) to the pipes, and the bypass valve should be perpendicular (closed) to the short pipe its on.
 
In "bypass" winter mode (do this during the winterization process, described elsewhere here), everything will be opposite.  Hot and cold handles will be perpendicular, and the bypass valve will be parallel.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2010 at 9:03pm
We had this problem also this year.  After winterizing the trailer last fall, we forgot to turn the bypass valve when we dewinterized/summerized this spring.  On the first trip out, the hot water heater was warm, the pipe coming out of the heater was warm but the water in the faucet was barely warm.  After showering at the campground showers and hiking up a mountain top, it dawned on Craig what the problem was.    Once we got off the mountain, it was fixed in 30 seconds.  Good thing too, as another shower was needed  after coming off the mountain.   I still prefer my cramped little pod shower over a public campground shower. 
Good luck
Terri and Craig and Panzer
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2010 at 10:03pm
ahhh.. Thanks also Brin! I am 99% sure that I dont have the by-pass valve set right... and what you discribed about the touch temperature of the tank, hose and water, is exactly what I am experiencing... it seals the deal.. cant wait to get out to hthe pod to play with it again...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2010 at 11:07pm
Let us know what you find!
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 6:49pm
Hi Folks,
 
Just wanted to let all know that I have fixed my water heater issues... the first issue was that I never had the by-pass valve turned to the 'off' position.... thus the cold water was mixing with the hot from the tank... the 2nd issue was that I found the on/off switch for the AC to the tank located inside the outside vent compartment... it was off and had a small cotter pin in it so that it could not be turned on until removed... I removed the pin and turned on the AC to the tank... BOY THAT WATER CAN GET HOT.... FAST!!!
 
Thanks againfor all your help..
 
Mike
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barbanjoe View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 10:24pm
I have looked and only have the ac switch with the cotter pin in it . I even crawled under the pod and do not see the bypass valves, am I missing them? my pod is new feb 2010, and my water is hot only for short times and cools off.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:03pm
You need to find the inside compartment where the water heater is located.  On the 171 it is under the rear bed's mattress, to the right.  There are 3 screws.  The WH and pump are both there, nice for winterizing.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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