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Topic ClosedFridge on Propane Issue.
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Monemkr2000 View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Nov 2018
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Posts: 17 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge on Propane Issue.
    Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 2:29pm
Hey guys. Finally had a chance to run my pods fridge for the first time. A/C and D/C seemed to work fine. But when I switched it to propane it took a minute or two before it finally lit. Problem is that it seemed the burner kept going out. It started making a popping sound like it was lighting then going out again. It would do it every 15-20 seconds. Pretty sure this isn't normal. Could it be a regulator pressure issue? it was about 40 degrees outside and a little windy but i don't think that would matter.
"We must always be aware that suddenly and unexpectedly we may find ourselves in a role where our performance has ultimate consequences."
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 2:54pm
Actually, the first time it does happen until the line is purged of remaining air. Then it should light and stay lit. It may take  a couple of cycles before it finally will stay lit. This is only the first time it is used or after changing a propane tank. Then it will be okay.
StephenH
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Monemkr2000 View Drop Down
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Posts: 17 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 3:18pm
ok well i will try it again and just leave it on for a hour or so and see if it stops. Thanks.
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 5:28pm
The fridge uses very little propane, so it may take a while for the air to bleed out. Most of us turn on the stove burners to speed up the purging process.
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Posts: 355 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 10:27am
Originally posted by TheBum

The fridge uses very little propane, so it may take a while for the air to bleed out. Most of us turn on the stove burners to speed up the purging process.

This is what I do - light both stove burners and let them run for a minute before starting the fridge.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2628 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 11:05am
Originally posted by Ben Herman

This is what I do - light both stove burners and let them run for a minute before starting the fridge.
+1. Same for us. Especially if you've swapped tanks, or had the propane disconnected. Get the stove running reliably (means there is propane in the lines), then start the fridge.
bp
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Monemkr2000 View Drop Down
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Posts: 17 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 6:38pm
Thanks for the suggestions. I turned the stove on for about 3 mins before turning the fridge on. Seemed to be a little better but still had flameouts every 30-45 seconds. Was still doing it after running for a hour. We are going camping for 3 nights starting tomorrow so it will get a good test.
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 7:13pm
Okay, flameouts every 30-45 seconds does not sound normal, especially after an hour. How old is your R-Pod? Is it still under warranty? This is probably something that will need to be diagnosed by your dealer. Will you be camping where you will have an electrical hookup? If so, you will probably want to use the refrigerator in AC mode until you can get somewhere to get the gas issue diagnosed.

In the meantime, have you removed the lower cover and observed the flame while this is happening? I think you might have a problem ours had when we first got it. That is, wasps had built a nest in the flue and the flame was shooting out back toward the gas tubing instead of going up the flue. This meant that the flame sensor was not getting adequately heated and the electronics could not detect the flame properly.

How to clean the flue:
1. Make sure refrigerator is turned off. You can also turn off the propane tank valve for additional safety.
2. Remove both upper and lower outside covers (rotate the inner portion of the catch 90 degrees and pull that part out until it stops. The bottom part of the vent covers should then pop out easily. Reverse the process to reinstall after you are finished.
3. Using a cross-tip screwdriver, remove the screw holding the burner in place. Gently pull the burner toward you and it should slide out from the flue.
4. Check the burner. Is it clean? If so, good. If not, then it will need to be cleaned.
     a. Using appropriate sized open-end wrenches (or adjustable wrenches), carefully disconnect the gas line from the burner. Be especially careful when you disconnect it not to lose the thin, metal orfice. The orfice may be cleaned with denatured alcohol or 92% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Do not stick anything through the opening. Carefully dry the orfice.
     b.  Clean the burner. You may use compressed air to help with this.
     c.  Carefully place the orfice back in the burner and reconnect the tubing. Make sure it is replaced in the same orientation as it was removed. Putting it on the end of the tubing and inserting it that way may work best.
5. Remove the flue cap (looks like slanted T) from the top of the flue. Also remove the metal spiral.
6. If you have a thin brush on a flexible shaft, that may work best to brush the inside of the flue. Clean all the way from top to bottom. Then clean up any loose material that was disloged.
7. Replace metal spiral and flue cap in the same places they were when you removed them.
8. Gently slide the burner assembly back ont othe bottom of the flue stack and replace the screw to hold it in place.
9. Open the LP tank valve (if you closed it) and purge the gas lines by running the stove until you get a steady flame.
10. Try running the refrigerator on propane. Like before, it may take a few cycles before the rest of the air is purged from that branch of the gas lines. During this time, you may get no flame, or a flame that lights, pops, and goes out. However, after a few cycles, the flame should settle down into a steady flame. The flame should be steady blue flame with a little yellow on top. The flame should be going up the flue. You should feel heat at the top of the flue stack.

If all goes well, this will get you going. However, if this does not cure the problem, then a trip to someplace that can check it out and repair what is wrong is going to be needed. If under warranty, to you dealer. If not, then try to find an RV repair place near you that will do the work.

Good luck in finding out what the problem is and in getting the problem fixed.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
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Monemkr2000 View Drop Down
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Posts: 17 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 9:06pm
Stephen thanks for the info. Its a 2018 190. I will defiantly go through these checks when we get to the campsite tomorrow as we will have full hookup. Its our first trial run so fingers crossed. lol
"We must always be aware that suddenly and unexpectedly we may find ourselves in a role where our performance has ultimate consequences."
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 10:08pm
If it is wasps, then one thing you can do to prevent it in the future is to put screens on the vents. Look here and choose the ones that fit the openings in the covers. Also, you can get screens for the furnace and water heater.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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