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Topic ClosedWinterizing 189

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JAKLEMO View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterizing 189
    Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 1:27pm
Thank you! It seems this will be easier, even though it will take more antifreeze.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 1:45pm
I'm not saying what you want to do won't work but the concern I have is there will likely be substantial mixing of antifreeze and water in the water heater tank. So depending on how cold it gets where you are you might need to waste quite a bit of low concentration antifreeze/water mix out the hot water lines before you get a high enough concentration of antifreeze in the system. Unless someone else here has already tried this it will take a bit of sorting out I think. Most folks use it full concentration but since with RV antifreeze you're generally looking for burst protection not freeze protection (its ok to freeze if you don't get expansion because you're not trying to use it till it warms up) so you can dilute it, but be careful.

Might help to make up a sample of the mixture ratio you want and keep it handy to compare to what is coming out the faucet. 

Here's a link to a mix table for Dowfrost antifreeze as an example. 

http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_0073/0901b80380073445.pdf

Good luck!
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JAKLEMO View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 1:52pm
Thanks!
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 3:19pm
One other consideration in favor of bypassing the water heater is that  have read that the antifreeze will attack the anode rod. The anode rod really needs to come out and the tank flushed anyway. Bypassing it will let you drain the tank and flush it and also to inspect the condition of the anode rod. If you don't do that, you will take a risk of the anode rod being used up down to the wire core. Then it can't protect the tank. In addition, you will likely find that you will start getting an accumulation of white particles in your faucet filters which will eventually clog them.

You are best off making the effort to get to the valves and switching them. You will need to get to the valves anyway to be able to switch the one for the water pump to be able to pump RV antifreeze into the system.
StephenH
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 3:38pm
You need to use compressed air and only put antifreeze in the traps of sinks and toilet. You do NOT want to put 6 galls of antifreeze in the water heater, that is all the bypass does for you. I use compressed air every year and have never touched a valve.
Mike Carter
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 3:46pm
I think JAKLEMO just wants to put the antifreeze in the tank water tank and pump from there.

I'd heard about possible RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) metals corrosion before so I looked up the Wikipedia article to try to see what the real story is.

Here's what it says:

Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat, forming lactic acid.[9][10] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive,[citation needed] so pH buffering agents such as dipotassium phosphate and potassium bicarbonate are often added to propylene glycol, to prevent acidic corrosion of metal components. Pre-inhibited propylene glycol solutions can also be used instead of pure propylene glycol to prevent corrosion.

So,  this is probably why we all still use ethylene glycol antifreeze in our car engines even though its highly toxic. But engines get hot, while you have the benefit of low temperature use in the RV water system.

Even so, you  would definitely want to use inhibited RV antifreeze. The Dow spec sheet says their formulation is inhibited for metals corrosion up to 150F. My gut feeling is that there wouldn't be a problem with the inhibited stuff over a winter season but any way you roll you're still going to need to remove and inspect the zinc anode in the spring and replace it if needed. 

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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 3:52pm
+1 want to use RV antifreeze and buy 6 gals + of it and not use the built in capabilities with valve and syphon tube. Make sense?
Mike Carter
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 4:15pm
For sure not what you or I'd want to do but JAKLEMO has winterized trailers before and if he wants to give this a shot that's up to him, right? It probably can work, it's just going to be more complex and expensive than at first appears. 


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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 4:20pm
+1
Mike Carter
2015 178
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2018 at 9:11pm
Definitely not a cheapskate like me.  I am with mcarter using compressed air.  I use a total of 16 oz of rv antifreeze each year to winterize our 177.  Done it this way since 2012, no issues.
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