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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: The tongue of the Rpod
    Posted: 23 Sep 2018 at 4:01pm
You guys make me glad I have a 172, with more deletions than additions, that I'd have to work at to get it up to it's axle weight capacity.  We get along fine with a 100 amp solar panel, never worry about running out of battery power, and the WDH works just dandy for a comfy and balanced load.  Our only issue is to find campgrounds with nice sites and now, at the end of the season, too many of them are closing for the season.
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
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JJT View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 8:01am
Lostagain. I am thinking of purchasing the solar panel option on my new r pod and it comes with a controller and 1000W inverter.  But I live in cloudy midwest so do you think I will get any real benefit from such expensive equipment?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 8:21am
We are hitting the road tommorow for points south, I have made some changes on the front.

Power jack came as ordered.

Ordered a second battery box and mounted it next to the first. There is just room to get both lids on and off. Bought some light chain. Attached one end to the frame closest to battery box, same on otherside.

In the middle of each lid I drilled a .250 hole and inserted a 1/4" bolt with washers securing the lid from being lost. And preventing the chain from moving. In the middle a Padlock, making sure both sides are as tight as possible.

Now you could still get into it, but it will take longer, and make some noise.

Left over chain made a loop through propane tank carry handle, down around frame and padlocked.

Padlocks were 3 from Harbor frienght, keyed alike. So I only need 1 additional key on my ring. 3rd one is on the hitch lock.

I have a second propape tank that does double duty. If my first runs out it is a spare. It also feeds a small gass grill and a Mr Buddy heater. It is currently in the back of my TV strapped down on my 4 wheel wagon hauler.

I think pretty much everyone finds their own level of "comfort" especially when it comes to loss prevention. I feel pretty good about starting this adventure with the choices I have made, but circumstances may change my mind over time.

Total costs for my up front mods are pretty low. 11$for chain, maybe 10 for the padlocks.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 9:27am
Originally posted by JJT

Lostagain. I am thinking of purchasing the solar panel option on my new r pod and it comes with a controller and 1000W inverter.  But I live in cloudy midwest so do you think I will get any real benefit from such expensive equipment?
What do you describe as expensive? A 100 watt panel and a solar controller should only be a couple hundred bucks 300 tops. That will do a fine job of topping up your battery/ies in the summer time all the way up to the 40th parallel or so. Of course clouds will affect that to some extent. Don't expect to "operate" on the solar panel, think of it as more of a trickle charger.

That 1000 watt inverter is another thing altogether. It has the potential of draining your battery/ies in a few minutes if you start actually putting a 1000 watt load on it. Plus it will have to be located really close to the battery/ies with some rather large gauge wire. If you're only going to be charging a laptop or phone on it, that is one thing, but don't expect to run a microwave or toaster for very long.
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 9:38am
thank you for your advice.  I really don't understand why they are offering that inverter for such a  modest travel trailer.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 11:54am
I concur, a 1000 watt inverter seems like a complete waste. Too small to run the microwave or air con, too big for a laptop, and everything else in the trailer can be run on 12V more efficiently. Either get a 2kW or larger inverter which could actually run the microwave for a few minutes a day or a 200-300 watt one you can plug into a cig lighter for small AC loads like a laptop.
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Blender Bob View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 12:32pm
I disagree in that I installed a 1200 Inverter and plugin my 2018 178HRE with a 30A to 20A plug converter. True can't run the AC, but I don't dry camp where A/C is needed. I have two batteries (2x80AH), The microwave pulls 750W, measured at the inverter, at the highest setting. Great for heating up cold coffee, warming tortillas or leftovers. I can run it (15 to 20min before batteries are at 50%) I also can run my blender, laptop and watch movies on the HRE monitor which is 110V. Very convenient to plug in small appliances, TIVO box, etc.  I went with a 120Watt solar instead of a 100W to get a bit more recharge capability. A bit more $ but I see the value. With full sun I can get 30 to 45AH back in the batteries per day. With clouds, expect halve, or less. Getting larger than a 1200W inverter gets into all sorts of sizing problems of larger batteries, thicker battery cables and after study, don't recommend that route. If A/C is your use case, go with a small generator.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 1:58pm
Blender Bob, you must have a different microwave than I do, mine draws 12.3A or just over 1400 VA. I couldn’t run mine on a 1200 watt inverter. That’s why I suggested a 2kw. Some headroom is very useful, most inverters die from thermal component stress, especially our current generation Chinese ones. The 2kw true sine wave ones are under $300 vs about $150 for a 1200 so not a huge difference.

I think having an inverter that can run the microwave is fine, even mine would only consume about 10-15AH a day in normal usage. Not a big deal. Don’t buy a modified sine wave one (they should really be called modified square wave). Microwaves don’t like them.

For about $130 you can change out the 120V TV for a dual 12V/120V one, then sell the old one on CL, no need for an inverter for that. I don’t use blenders and other AC loads so that’s up to personal choice, but I should have seen from your handle that that was important for you.😁. If you wanted to save some amphours and get some exercise to boot you could get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Outdoors-1304-1406-Vortex-Blender/dp/B001LF3I3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539542816&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v+blender&dpPl=1&dpID=4109UGGyAvL&ref=plSrch

In my opinion as a solar guy living and camping in the East, for someone living in the Midwest or East I would start with the genset. Too many cloudy days and deciduous tree shade canopies in campgrounds to rely 100% on solar. Also too many hot humid days when air con is a must.

Then add solar to reduce genny operation when not running air con and keep the noise down. You do not need a 3kw plus genny to run the air conditioner. A lightweight 2200 watt inverter generator will do it if you add an easy start to the air con. If I still lived in the West I would probably be 100% solar as well.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 3:17pm
OK Blender Bob I saw your other post on installing the 1200 watt Whistler inverter. 

It is apparently a "modified sine wave" inverter. From looking at some test results on Youtube, it appears that microwaves run at lower power levels on this type of inverter than on true sine wave ones. And make a less heat (and more noise). So we might have the same convection/microwaves after all. Mine is a Highpointe EC028BNC-S if I read it correctly.  1500 watt rated. 

Check out this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wimTJw_Gpgk

As inexpensive as 2kW true sine wave inverters are these days I can't in good conscience recommend going with something smaller or non-true sine wave for the microwave, at least not the one I have.  
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 5:05pm
My original point about a 1000 watt inverter is that it puts too much of a load on a 12V battery system unless you have some humongous batteries. Going to 1200W or 2 kilowatts would just make it worse. I think if you really need to run large A/C loads above 500 or 600 watts would be much better served by going to a genset. Stick with the small inverter, or else use straight DC appliances. There are ways to do this on DC for the TV, stereo, laptops, phones, and other incidental loads. For the microwave, air conditioner, toaster oven, coffee maker, and so on, stick with the genset if you really need it.
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
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