Should I adjust my towing setup?

First are the trailer frame rails. Consider that the trailer structure is basically two single ended cantilever beams supported at one end by the hitch and by the trailer axle inboard from the other end. The loading on these beams is more or less uniform along their length without the wd hitch load. By tensioning the wd hitch I am adding a point load 2.5 ft in from the hitch end. This load combination creates a max bending stress on the rails somewhere near where the tongue is welded to the main frame rails under the front of the trailer box. On my 179 at 1200 lbs tension on the wd hitch and a fully loaded trailer I am increasing the max bending stress on the frame rails by about 80% at that point. 

So, is this additional frame loading a problem or not? I'm not a vehicle design engineer and am not interested in picking up any liability for taking a position on that.  I will only say that taking a quick look on line at the g load factors typically used in vehicle frame design and checking the section properties of the rPod frame rails (which on my 179 are 0.1 in thick 4x2 box tubes) I wouldn't want to drive around very much with 1200 lbs tension on my hitch. 

Second is the receiver hitch. Think of the wd hitch as the equivalent of a really strong guy shoving a big breaker bar into the receiver and rotating it to push the front wheels down into the pavement. There is a giant moment (torque) being applied at the receiver (3000 ft-lbs on my hitch at 1200 lbs tension). What could possibly go wrong? If you don't have a hitch rated for wd use here's what can happen. And no, that's not my Highlander. So, be sure your hitch (and its attachment to your TV) is rated for wd use. This one wasn't. 

Oh, I like that rule.

In parts of Washington, slow turn-outs are enforced for vehicles with 5+ vehicles behind them. With people driving as if the 5mph-over rule is real, it can prove for some stressful times. I just remind myself that, if I'm going the speed limit, I'm not a slow vehicle.