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Topic ClosedPod People's 179 Mod's

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Pod People View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Pod People's 179 Mod's
    Posted: 11 Aug 2018 at 10:53pm
Here is the next installment of interior mods for our 179

We added 3 wire shelves in the wardrobe so that we each have 2 shelves for our clothes.  There is also a pocket unit velcroed to the inside wardrobe door.

 


 

I installed a 400watt inverter under the bed. The inverter draws power continuously, so I put an inline switch to power it on/off.  I added 2 110 receptacles that are connected to the inverter. The inverter switch and the 2 receptacles are brown to differentiate them from the standard white devices.  One receptacle is over the tv for use with the tv or the fan.  The other is below the bed for a power strip under the dinette.  The power strip can be connected to either the 12 volt inverter or the standard receptacle.  I also added 2 12 volt receptacles in the same locations.

 


 



We used a Lasagna pan to make a diverter for the heater. I added wood furring strips on 3 sides to give it a little more clearance.  It redirects the heat flow nicely and allows us to use the under bed storage area more completely.  Before winter use, I will insulate the pan.

 


 

I removed the wood board that spans the storage area under the bed and replaced it with a metal U channel and smaller piece of wood.  This gives us 2” of additional height for our storage bins under the bed

 


 

 I also recut the plywood under the bed and hinged the front section for easier access to the winterization valves and under bed storage area

 


 

We did a lot of mods that don’t require pictures-

Added additional reinforcement straps to both black and gray tank valves;

we switched the double/single LED ceiling lights around so that the kitchen has more lighting (double unit) and the bed area less light (single unit);

 installed wire mesh/screen covers for the water heater, heater  and refrigerator vents; added a hanging rod in the bath;

 added multiple Command hooks for clothing, hats and towels;

created shoe storage in both hassocks;

installed a paper towel holder on kitchen wall;

added an indoor /outdoor thermometer to the refrigerator/freezer:

there are still more in the works-not completed, but anticipated:

a custom awnin, new curtains, mosquito netting for the exit window and who knows what else


I hope this will help  some other podders with ideas.  It can be hard to get started, but doing mods is so worthwhile.  The R Pod is a great platform to start making your personal camper.

I will be glad to answer questions.

Safe travels

Vann


Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 9:07am
Please re-think your heat diverter. If you look at the grill for the furnace, there is a square section. The larger, L-shaped section is heat output. The square section, along with slots around the perimeter are cold air returns. By putting the pan over the whole thing, you are pulling heated air back through the furnace. You need to allow for the cold air return by modifying your design to avoid the perimeter and square return sections.

Instead of a diverter, I put a ten inch O2 Cool fan at the base of the bed on the wardrobe side to pull the warm air out from under the bed and distribute it to the rest of the R-Pod. The end next to the slide-out then is free to act as the cold-air return.

One of these days, I will make a diverter that is designed to avoid the problem or maybe convert to a hydronic system that uses the water heater as a heat source instead. Both of those have been detailed by others here in the forum.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 12:53pm
Hello Stephen
thanks for looking at our mods.
I see your  suggestion.  However, I don't think I understand the problem.  If the cold air return's purpose is to provide intake air into the heater to be warmed, would not using"pre-warmed" air make the heater more efficient? why does the heater need a "cold" air return since it is not ducted ?
I would appreciate your insight.
Thank you
Vann

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 2:26pm
To me is seems counter-productive to recirculate the heated air instead of blowing it out into the 'Pod. See this post for pictures and information about a better design for the deflector. Also see this post for details with plans and templates.
StephenH
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Richand Cindy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 4:06pm
I do not understand the science of it but it is recommended that all furnaces and fireplaces use cold air rather than already heated air.  In our homes we had a hot water heater that received its air through a duct connected outside and also the fireplace had two ducts leading outside to draw in cold air rather than using the air from the room.  Claimed it was more efficient.  It would even be better if the air intake could be ducted to draw air from outside or at least away from the hot air exhaust.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 4:15pm
Don't confuse recirculating heated air versus combustion air. The intake and exhaust for the furnace combustion are both outside the pod, and do not mix with the heated air.

I can imagine that having both hot air and the return being inside the same chamber might affect efficiency though. Two air streams colliding, or just the hot air going back into the return; neither would be desirable.
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 12:08pm
Nice mods, Vann.  We've done some of the same things but you have quite a few things I haven't thought of.  Dang it, every time I get on this forum, I find something else I want to do to our Pod.  My to-do list keeps getting longer and this thing called employment keeps getting in the way of completing that list.  Keep at it......
Mark
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