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cariefields View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Generator and dimming lights
    Posted: 12 Jul 2018 at 6:09pm
Just bought new Rpod 171. I know zero about electrical stuff but totally willing to learn!!

1. I'm thinking about buying a generator instead of second battery. Is that wise? What lightweight generator is recommended for a 171 and where would I buy it?  Are there minimum specs I need to look for? 
2. The bright LED lights are driving me nuts. I am considering a film that goes inside the light. Anyone have experience with this or suggestions for how to tone down the lights? See link below.
3. Can I charge my battery with my xc70 volvo jumper cables?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44201-REG/Rosco_RS340811_3408_Filter_RoscoSun.html

Thanks.


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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2018 at 9:15pm
1.  If all you want to do is power the lights and charge your battery, a very small generator is all that is needed. If however, you want to run the AC, Microwave, etc. then you will need a 3500 Watt generator (Look at Harbor Freight's Predator 3500 as it is getting great reviews). If you are willing to go somewhere between, you will need a generator that provides at least 2000 running Watts with higher surge capability. This will run the microwave or the AC, just not at the same time. If you are trying to run the refrigerator, that too would require the larger generator.

I recently installed a Micro-Air Easy Start on my AC. My Genreac iX2000 (2000 running Watts, 2200 surge Watts) runs it just fine and does not sound like it is going to explode when the compressor kicks in anymore. Micro-Air has a Westinghouse iGen2500 model (2200 running Watts, 2500 peak Watts) that they sell that they guarantee to run up to a 15000 BTU AC if the Easy Start is installed. It has some nice features and is certainly lighter than the Predator 3500. Micro-Air has a $40 discount if you use the discount code "FORESTRIVER" in the discount box that will show up during checkout. They are offering free shipping also. 

2.  Some people have switched out lights. Some have taken the cover off and put a gel filter in to cut the brightness. My wife and I are happy with the amount of light, but not everyone needs or wants that level of brightness.

3.  You probably could but if you have AC power available, let the converter charge the battery. If not, then you certainly can use jumper cables. That will charge faster than your trailer's umbilical because the wire gauge is much heavier and can transfer a higher current.
StephenH
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FrayAdjacent View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2018 at 9:48pm
What Stephen said is right good. 

There are two types of power our campers will use. 12V DC (from the battery and from the converter powered by.. ) and 120V AC. 

The 12V DC system powers the lights, the thermostat, the control circuitry for the fridge, the water pump, and the control circuitry for the water heater. These are all very low power items, drawing in the single to double digit power range in watts. 

The AC, by comparison, uses 1670W. The microwave is probably around 1200W while running. I'm not sure how much the water heater electric element draws, but it's probably several hundred watts. 

So if you want a generator, what do you want to run off of the generator? If you want to run your AC, you're gonna need a generator that supports at least ~1700W output AND you want to consider that the AC compressor requires a large amount of current to start. Stephen mentioned the Easy Start, which is a device installed and wired into the AC unit that reduces the startup power demand of the compressor by more slowly starting it, rather than it trying to start 'all at once'. It works wonders and allows you to use a smaller generator and not overload it when the AC starts.

Note that if you're running the AC, you won't be able to run your microwave at the same time. 

If you step up to something like the Predator 3500W generator (which BTW has a great reputation, I'm probably going to get one myself), you could probably run the microwave and AC at the same time. 

For the fridge, IMHO, the best way to run it is off of LP, unless you are at a campsite or location with a 30A connection. Then I'd run it off of AC. Running off of battery will suck a battery dry in a few hours. Draining a 12V lead acid battery too low can destroy it (it won't explode or anything, but it may lose its ability to recharge or hold a charge). 
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cariefields View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 6:04am
Thanks to both of you, this information is great!!!!!
Beth
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 7:13am
Glad to help. Welcome and congratulations on your 171. We have a 179 which has been a great way to travel for my wife and me. I hope you have many great adventures and make many wonderful memories in the process.

The initial learning curve can be steep. However, it won't take long before you get comfortable with your R-Pod.
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mjlrpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 7:56am
Stephen, I did not realize you already have the micro air easy start installed. I just started looking into it. So your saying that with this installed, you run your a/c with 2000 watt genny? I thought you had a little bigger genny. I would love to get this installed if thats true. Was it easy install? Youtube video? As I stated a few days ago, I got my a/c to run on the Honda 2000I genny, But it was running at or near max RPM. This will cause an auto shut off for heat. So with this switch installed, my genny would run it at lower RPM? And not run as hot. Do you know if it would run at 1600 RPM or less? I know i'm asking alot. Thanks

***** Update:  I went to micro air website. They claim this will work fine with 0ne 2000I genny. I'm ordering it. Only thing is figuring out how to put it in once i get it.
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 5:55pm
Cariefields - one thing to add to the mix. If you don't need to power items that require a generator or 120v electrical power (like microwave and air conditioner), then you might consider solar. I have a single 12v battery and most of the time we camp where electricity is not available, and a simple 100w solar panel system keeps my battery charged up. My main needs are lights, occasional heater use (primarily propane is used for heat but the battery powers the fan), and water pump. A self-contained solar system costs around $2-300. It just plugs into the side of the rPod (you should see a plug next to your door that says "solar-ready".

I always use propane for the fridge, whether camping or traveling. Same for hot water. Only occasionally do we stay where we have access to electricity. 

Just fyi, since you said that you're a novice at electrical stuff, I'll go out on a limb and state the obvious, just in case you don't know. If you stay in a campground with electrical hookups (120v), your battery is charged while plugged in. And you can run your fridge, ac, and microwave when plugged in to the campground circuit. No need for a second battery or means to charge it if you are plugged in. And for most, your battery is also charging when you are driving (some tow vehicles are not so equipped). 

Best of luck with your new rig - hope you have lots of fun with it!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by mjlrpod

Stephen, I did not realize you already have the micro air easy start installed. I just started looking into it. So your saying that with this installed, you run your a/c with 2000 watt genny? I thought you had a little bigger genny. I would love to get this installed if thats true. Was it easy install? Youtube video? As I stated a few days ago, I got my a/c to run on the Honda 2000I genny, But it was running at or near max RPM. This will cause an auto shut off for heat. So with this switch installed, my genny would run it at lower RPM? And not run as hot. Do you know if it would run at 1600 RPM or less? I know i'm asking alot. Thanks

***** Update:  I went to micro air website. They claim this will work fine with 0ne 2000I genny. I'm ordering it. Only thing is figuring out how to put it in once i get it.

The easy-start thingy just makes it easier to start your A/C.  It doesn't do anything to lower the amps needed to run it.  Your generator won't run any cooler or at lower RPMs with the easy-start thing.  It may help you restart the air when after the thermostat shuts it down because it's cool enough inside and then starts it back up.

There may be cheaper options than what has been discussed here, and they're probably a good idea in your situation.  Just don't think your generator won't have to work as hard or that it will run any cooler.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 10:48pm
Micro-Air's web site contains a pretty detailed instruction for the Dometic Penguin II AC unit. It was not hard to install. I did not purchase the installation kit because I had most of what was needed on hand and only needed some capped splices.

I agree with TT. The generator will still be running pretty hard but it will start the AC unit. I have tested with the Generac iX2000 (2000 running and 2200 surge Watts) and it has worked quite well. I don't know about the Honda 2000I since I don't have one for comparison.
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cariefields View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2018 at 7:51am
Ben - thank you for the solar info. I will mostly be camping without electric - mainly in wooded areas. Will that be an issue with the solar working effectively?

Again, major power novice hereClap
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