Dual Batteries and solar

True if your a weekend warrior, yet go for any distance (week or so), boon-docking, and you'll want the dual 6's.
 

Sorry about being late on this..

Mine are dis-continued, but I'm a big fan of this site. Panels (both hard and flex) can be purchased for $1 a watt.

I still debate going flexible.

Solar cells are fabricated on crystalline silicon wafers. That is a brittle material. The cute marketing video on the Sunpower website where the guy is folding the wafer works (once) because the cell is very thin. But ask him what happens when you apply constant bending stress to those cells or flex those cells multiple times. Microcracks will ultimately propagate across the cell and it will fracture, often opening the entire cell circuit, which is in series.  Dead module. 

The polymer superstrate used on the "flexible"  modules is not nearly as robust and the glass superstrate used on conventional modules. It will degrade, discolor, and is prone to cupping. Then there is the risk of hail damage. Dead or low performing module. 

The "flexible' modules are intended to be attached directly to a roof or other rigid surface. By not providing back side cooling these modules will run hot, reducing performance and further reducing product life. Much better to use conventional modules in a stand off mounting configuration that allows some airflow to cool the backside.   

Cells in modules are in series, and the current generated by them is proportional to the irradiance they receive, so if the intent is to attach the "flexible" modules to a curved surface like the front part of an rPod, there will be a significant performance degradation because the cells won't all be receiving the same irradiance levels. 

Bottom line, typical manufacturer's warranties on conventional modules are 25-30 years. Flexible ones are 1-5 years. So, if you won't be frustrated if you have to replace your modules every few years at best, and weight is critically important, then "flexible" is the way to go, but be sure you have a way in mind to remove them from whatever they're attached to without causing damage so you can replace them. If not then stick with conventional glass superstrate modules, you'll be a lot happier in the long run. You pay your money and take your chances. 

Your 6A max current is just about right from a 130W module. You might see as high is 7A under perfect conditions. The 2A output is your charge controller doing its thing floating the battery and providing enough current to maintain whatever load you might have operating during the day. You of course wouldn't want the current to be higher than that after full state of charge is reached. 

For a 17-20 amphour/day load the 130W is a good choice as it will also maintain your battery under fall/winter conditions when an average day is about half the irradiance you get in the summer (about 2.5-3 sunhours vs. 5-6). I think you also have a 230AH battery bank which means you have about 6 days (no sun) autonomy to the recommended 50% max depth of discharge for lead acid batteries. That's going to take you through pretty much any extended cloudy period.  I'd assume you essentially never need to run a genny or a grid connection with that setup. 

For myself, I'm running through about 70-75AH/day in the summertime (2/3 of which is running fans, its hot in NC in the summer) so will need to go for at least one 350 watt-ish commercial/residential size module. I've got basically the same battery setup you do. I expect to need to continue to run my genny occasionally in summer and daily in fall/winter. And now the DW wants to be able to run the air conditioner part of the time... 

Which leads me back to your recommendation to the OP that an energy audit be done prior to making a decision on what size solar configuration to get. I 100% agree. Everyone's usage is going to be  different. 

I'm reposting the measured current draw of each item in my 2015 179 here in case it helps folks with the load estimates. If you estimate the daily run time for each item in hours or fractions of an hour, multiply by the current draws and sum, that should yield a pretty good estimate of the total daily load in amp hours.   Pump, heater, and water heater on time is not the time that you have the switches turned on, its the time each of those appliances is actually running.