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Topic ClosedSealing/caulking awning and spoiler

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Tibof View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
    Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 11:07pm
"podders Helping podders"  Thanks for your help Leo.  And thanks for yours, too, Keith — though the issue I've raised does not seem to have much to do with the likes of refrigerator size or air conditioner noise.  In fact, it's only about a defective spoiler, not the entire Pod failing to float my boat.  I appreciate the advice that you give, also, Stephen; a sort of "R-Pod, love it or leave it " proposition.  I genuinely hope that you get your spoiler sealed before interior damage occurs.  As for Jato's advice, I am very familiar with that course of action and am especially good at it. But I consider myself duly chastised for imagining that FR should put some skin in the game.  With respect to life being too short, I might qualify as being abundantly familiar with the truth of that proposition.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 8:54am
It isn't a "love it or leave it" proposition. It is being realistic about expecting FR to fix something they don't view as broken under warranty, especially since the warranty is long expired. I could have submitted items for warranty work, but the distance I would have had to tow our RP179 to the dealer would have carried costs far above the cost of fixing it myself. Do I think the R-Pod is perfect? Far from it. It has its share of problems. However, I prefer not to dwell on the problems, but fix them if I can so I can get out there and enjoy it.

The spoiler's front side warping is not what I consider a major issue. Some non-sag lap sealant or Eternabond tape would fix that quickly and easily so why continue to harp on that same string? Fix it and get out there and enjoy your R-Pod. The leakage issue some experienced with the spoiler had to do with the wires not being sealed where they go through the roof to the lights. When I took mine off, the wires were well sealed with black silicone RTV sealant so no water could penetrate there even though the edge of the spoiler had lifted. It is also a good idea to have an area on the back side unsealed to allow any water that does get under there to escape. The one issue I did have was not that the edge had lifted which was easily fixed with non-sag lap sealant, but that the screws weren't sealed and when I removed them, I noticed rust on the screws. That also was easily fixed by sealing them when I reinstalled the spoiler.

If you are concerned with the possibility of it leaking, remove the spoiler, clean it and the roof and reinstall it with fresh sealant. Removing is not difficult. After scraping off as much as the old sealant as you can, mineral spirits will remove the remainder without damaging the gel-coat or the plastic spoiler. Check to see that the wires are adequately sealed, then just reinstall the spoiler with fresh sealant. It isn't difficult. It does not take a lot of time or effort. It beats getting angry with FR for not fixing something that they do not view as defective.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 10:37am
Stephen, read carefully.  Aside from this matter having nothing to do with weight, refrigerator size, or air conditioner noise, nowhere have I suggested that FR should fix "something they don't regard as broken,"or cover it under warranty.  In all of your comments, you have virtually no idea what I have asked FR to do.  Earlier in this thread I outlined my likely approach to a DIY repair, a portion of which seems to have found its way back to me in your recommendation.  In fact, you seemed somewhat baffled as to how to effect a repair on your own spoiler.  If the front side edge is not a major issue, then it would probably not need the aluminum reinforcement strip you were considering.  My participation here has nothing to do with anger.  Rather, it began in an honest attempt to determine the best way to repair what the dealer himself conveyed to FR as "the notorious spoiler leak problem," for even the dealer did not present to me a recommendation.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 12:33pm
In the final analysis, the spoiler needs to not leak. AFAIK, the only opening(s) are the opening for the lights, and the screw holes. Otherwise, letting water/rain just run through should theoretically be OK.

So rather than attempting to seal up the spoiler, it might just be simpler to fill the wiring hole with a good sealant, and perhaps put a dab of sealant on each screw hole, and maybe changing the screws to stainless.

Then if your sense of airflow is offended, maybe put some of that tape across the leading edge.

I'm not meaning this to offend anyone, but am I missing something here?
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:10pm
Thanks Glue —  that's reasonable.  And after pulling the spoiler and cleaning everything up, that is about what I had intended to do.  Definitely plan to use stainless screws and caulk wiring holes as well as screw hole points in the filon. As for the Eternabond tape (which I have successfully used in other applications), I currently have that on the leading edge and the sides, but in the cold it seems not to have held very well despite the surface having been cleaned with Xylene. But I will likely also caulk the leading edge and sides with either Dicor or Proflex.  My problem is a badly warped spoiler, so I have a new one on order.  They come with some sort of adhesive tape already on them.  We'll see.  I understand your point about no concern for water under the spoiler once the wiring holes and screw holes are caulked, but I don't share your confidence.  I believe the spoiler moves and pulls on the screws, and FR says the entire thing should be caulked.  Weep outlets on the back side, however, may make sense. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:48pm
I'm far from baffled. Having the front end bowing up between screws is not a big deal for me. However, I also don't like gaps in the sealant on the leading edge so sealing it, whether by sealant, some sort of bar to spread the force of the screws to include between them, or by something like Eternabond tape is viable. On your new spoiler, you will find that the foam is going to force the spaces between the screws up and you will eventually end up with the same issue. The plastic of the spoiler is not stiff enough to prevent that, even on the new style spoiler that is straight and not curved at the top. Marwayne's solution is the only one that will give you one that won't eventually have the gaps between the screws.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:52pm
Another thought I had was that you might be able to "fix" the spoiler? I don't know what the spoiler is made of; it looks like plastic, but I don't know what kind. I've worked with fiberglass and epoxy, and polyester resins. I think you might be able to reinforce/thicken the leading edge of the spoiler with an inch-wide strip of fiberglass. Maybe only one or two layers. This would make it much less likely to warp when screwed down. Maybe more work than it's worth, but I am sometimes known for my propensity for fix overkill.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:20pm
The spoiler appears to be made of either ABS or polypropylene plastic. While it is rigid, it is not stiff enough to pull down evenly and over time as the foam wants to expand, it pushes the plastic up between screws where mechanical force is holding it down. That is what appears to be causing the issue.

Edit: If the wires are adequately sealed and if there is a gap at the lower, back edge to let water out, then a gap at the leading edge is not a big deal. The water will simply run out through the back end. If, however, the wires were not adequately sealed and the back end is sealed tight but the front isn't, then it would cause problems as water accumulates underneath with no place to go but through the unsealed hole.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:42pm
GlueGuy, the spoiler is made of soft flexible plastic, probably some kind of vinyl with a flex additive and it's isn't likely that fiberglass would stick well.  Another option would be to use the old spoiler as the template for a mold and recast a new spoiler made of fiberglass, but that's a lot of work if you don't have a workshop set up for fiberglass.

Tibof, I note that you used xylene as your cleaning agent.  It may leave enough of a residue that it doesn't work well with the adhesive in the Eternabond tape glue.  You may want to try cleaning the surface where the tape would be attached with denatured alcohol to get better adhesion.  The Eternabond site [https://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/eb_hvac_tips_install.pdf] gives instructions on the installation.  They claim that the product maintains flexibility between - 70º F and >200º F, so cold temperatures shouldn't cause it to crack and come lose.  Take a look at their web site for more product information.  They suggest several solvents, but xylene wasn't among them.  

In the end, FR should have designed a more rigid spoiler made of fiberglass with a base wide enough to accept caulk or some kind of sealing tape or attached to the roof with fiberglass to become an integral part of the roof.  Or make one of metal like the really cool one marwayne made, but they didn't and we can either fix what they supplied as best we can or pay a fabricator to make one of fiberglass or metal if it can't be made in a home shop.  But, given the trailer choices out there in the price range of the Pod, no one is really any better and they all have their design and construction defects that have to be fixed.  

For me, the Eternabond tape solution has been an inexpensive, effective, easy, and trouble free remedy for someone else's mistake.  It's all part of the ongoing process of tweaking a low cost, practical, and basically well designed trailer to make it a little better and more reliable. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:23pm
Here is my two cents worth. If podders with white spoilers have a problem just think about the podders that have a black spoiler, I bet you can fry an egg on the spoiler when the sun beats on it. With that being sad something has to give, it wouldn't surprise me that there is enough force from buckling that might even pull some of the screws out of the skin.
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