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Topic ClosedA poll on WDH w/sway control

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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: A poll on WDH w/sway control
    Posted: 07 Mar 2020 at 4:26pm
Originally posted by Wirat

Old post new question - for those using the Fastaway e2 is it the trunnion or round bar style? I see both offered in the 6K model. I don't know what the pros and cons of each are other than the trunnion one cost more, so I assume it might have some advantages over the round bar type.
The trunnion has a little bit more clearance under the hitch, so if you have limited clearance at the back of your tow vehicle, it might be the better choice. We have the round bar version.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2020 at 7:17pm
Round bar E2 600/6000 here. Glue Guy is right about ground clearance but that's seldom an issue. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2020 at 6:23am
Hey cool thanks for the responses. I can read about the differences on the websites that sell them, but those differences, clearance, installation time, etc. don't really mean as much to me as feedback from people like you actually using them with our particular type of trailer. I think I will go for the round bar version too if it's cheaper and seems to work with the R-pods as well as the trunnion does.

When I first bought this camper my neighbor (who has 30 years RV experience) told me I should get a WDH for safety reasons even though the trailer is light compared to others. I don't really see people here using them much on small stuff. I called Etrailer and the guy there told me for the R-Pod it would be a waste of money and would not make a difference until I was towing around 7,000 lbs. But then, my truck is only rated at 6,200 lbs max, so I think the Etrailer guy was missing the "big picture". To me it seems the physics should be the same just on a smaller scale...

When I read "installation" is easier for the trunnion style, do they mean each time you hook it up, or are they referring to the one-time installation when you first bolt the parts to the frame? If it's the one time initial installation they are referring to that's not a big deal to me. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2020 at 9:26am
I use the E2 system also. I have the 600/6000 square friction bars. I don't understand why anyone would say using wdh is a waste of anything.  Making sure your vehicle is somewhat level, and each wheel, front and back, is firmly planted against the road to assure the best possible control is not a waste. I also feel that having at least some sway control, is much better than no sway control. It's like stating that you should never ever wear a seat belt, because you'll probably not get into an accident today. Unless you buy a wdh that is guaranteed easy to install while your camper sways violently out of control as you drive down the highway, I would say it's not a waste. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2020 at 10:42am
+1 I agree that hooking up a WDH is no big deal. Once you understand the dynamics, it only takes a few minutes to hook or de-hook as it were.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2020 at 11:46am
Originally posted by mjlrpod

I use the E2 system also. I have the 600/6000 square friction bars. I don't understand why anyone would say using wdh is a waste of anything.  Making sure your vehicle is somewhat level, and each wheel, front and back, is firmly planted against the road to assure the best possible control is not a waste. I also feel that having at least some sway control, is much better than no sway control. It's like stating that you should never ever wear a seat belt, because you'll probably not get into an accident today. Unless you buy a wdh that is guaranteed easy to install while your camper sways violently out of control as you drive down the highway, I would say it's not a waste. 

Yeah and it seems from conversations here that WDHs DO make a big difference even on a lighter trailer, so I don't know why the Etrailer guy was so adamant about not needing one under 7k. He must not have had his coffee yet...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2020 at 1:01pm
One additional point. There is a difference between "need WDH" and want WDH". Needing a WDH for safety reasons is a much debated subject involving weight of TT, weight of TV, location of hitch, wheelbases and trailer loading. This may explain the E-trailer response, particularly since the advertised weight of Rpods is grossly understated. However, you definitely will want the WDH. A properly installed and adjusted WDH will greatly improve the ride and feel of the rig.  In addition to returning weight to the front axle it almost eliminates porpoising. Bounce up and down? Yes; that's the road and you can't do much about that. Feel like you're on a rocking horse? Not with the WDH. Great for relieving stress and calming your co-pilot. 
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 12:01pm
We use the round bar version of the E2 with our 179 and Durango. The Durango has load leveling shocks on the back, but the ride is much smoother and more controlled with the WDH. The WDH reduces bounce at the coupler as well as providing better traction for steering.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2020 at 3:06pm
Can see that everybody has a favorite, and I'm HOPING I made the right choice for my needs, but I picked the Anderson 3324 Sway WDH.  It's kinda pricey ($499), but it's under 60lbs, and looks to be the bee's knees. My Jeep is rated 350/3500, and the 178 is at about 270 on the hitch, so my math says I snuck in just below. No lift kit, running 33's, so hoping the height is gonna be OK too.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2020 at 3:49pm
Originally posted by alohapad

Can see that everybody has a favorite, and I'm HOPING I made the right choice for my needs, but I picked the Anderson 3324 Sway WDH.  It's kinda pricey ($499), but it's under 60lbs, and looks to be the bee's knees. My Jeep is rated 350/3500, and the 178 is at about 270 on the hitch, so my math says I snuck in just below. No lift kit, running 33's, so hoping the height is gonna be OK too.
It will quickly become apparent that 350/3500 is inadequate. I towed with a 2016 Ford Escape and while it worked for a time, there were lots of those times I was wanting to have something with more capacity. We had an accident when we hit ice along with a strong crosswind. The damage to the Escape meant we needed something else to continue our trip and get home (the RPod was damaged also, but I was able to patch it up enough to get home, after which it went to the factory for repair). We ended up getting a 2020 Nissan Frontier LE Crew Cab 4x4 which has been serving us well with its 6,100 lb tow rating.

I say this to say that you will want to be careful with that Jeep. Its high center of gravity and short wheelbase (relatively so) means that any issue with trailer sway could get out of control faster than you can imagine. If you do not already have a lot of experience towing, I would recommend that in addition to the Andersen hitch, you look into one of the electronic sway control devices such as the Hayes Sway-Master, the Tuson Sway Control, or Lippert Sway Command. It will be able to react to conditions faster than you can and help prevent a potential sway situation from getting out of hand. I would recommend one of these, especially if someone has a vehicle that he/she thinks does not need a WD/sway control hitch.
StephenH
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