Winter camping - any advice? |
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jato
Senior Member Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Kewadin, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 3225 |
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Topic: Winter camping - any advice? Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 4:48pm |
Another issue to contend with is where to camp. Even where we are in northern Michigan if we go to the U.P. after mid October it becomes difficult at best to find places to camp. Most everything closes by then.
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God's pod
'11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
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Jcync000
Newbie Joined: 14 Jul 2021 Location: Greensboro Online Status: Offline Posts: 3 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 3:55pm |
I just purchased an RPOD from an neighbor and have been investigating ways to have a 4-season camper. There are a few design flaws in the RPOD in what otherwise would have been a very good 4 season camper. My goal is to be able to take it skiing for 3-4 days in the east coast, where the temps get easily into the low 20s-10s. That means no shore power mostly and recharging the batteries from a generator.
1) cheap 'garden hose' material is used to bring water from the tank to the pump and thereafter. This hose needs to be replaced by PEX or a much more reliable pipe material. If this hose freezes, it will crack horribly, whereas PEX is much more reliable. I easily substituted to PEX and added pipe insulation to the outside as well as spray foam insulation to the adapter to the tank. 2) in order to rout the cold and hot water from the 'driver' side of the RPOD to the shower, they actually embedded a plastic channel box in the extruded styrofoam that forms the bottom of the RPOD. This is a horrible idea; in doing so, they removed what was excellent insulation in the styrofoam and put the cold/hot water pipes right in contact with the bottom layer of fiberglass. This is why everyone reports the bathroom/toilet not working in the winter. It is fairly easy to disable these floor pipes and instead install pex piping routed through the storage area. 3) Huge floor openings for the tank connections. Grab cans of foam insulation and apply tons of it to these poorly insulated openings. Everywhere they cut the flooring styrofoam, fill it with the foam. 4) single pane windows. I am sure that was to save money but the single pane will be a horrible heat loss factor in the deep cold and it will make the furnace run nonstop. It would add so very little to the design by making them dual pane, hard to believe that savings was that significant. This can be solved with the reflective silver insulation plaques, but this will make the Rpod dark and cavernous. I don't think there is a way around this one. 5) Have 3 gallons of RV antifreeze in both the gray/black tanks. This will help greatly in keeping the tanks from freezing. 6) Fresh water tank: in order for this tank not to freeze, you will need a tank heater attached to a thermostat, many on the market. For the 36 gallons, you need about a 50-60W pad heater, which means it will draw about 4-5 amps from your battery. I have dual 100 A-h batteries in the RPOD. I need to run some tests but this should mean that the batteries should be able to go a whole day or perhaps two without needing to be recharged. Probably best to assume that the RV batteries will be recharged daily for 2 hr with the generator. My solar kit can get about 5A in the winter sun, but once it is cloudy -very often in the eastern mountains- it drops to below 1A, so very unreliable way to recharge in the ski mountain. If the RPOD had maybe $500 extra cost for some modifications, it would have been a much better winter RV, it really is too bad they didn't design it a little better. |
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lostagain
Senior Member Joined: 06 Sep 2016 Location: Quaker Hill, CT Online Status: Offline Posts: 2587 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 9:19am |
You could try putting a gallon of cheap gin in the fresh water tank.
Seriously, though, as time to winterize approaches where we live, I usually set up an electric heater to blow into the vent below the head to put some warm air into that space, along with opening up the galley cabinet door or taking out a drawer to let warm air in. I also added pipe insulation to the water line from the fresh water tank to the point at which the line enters the floor. Probably offgrid's suggestion of a recirculating pump would do the trick since it keeps the water moving enough to drag along some residual heat from the warm areas to heat up the spots where it's hard to heat.
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Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
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SkiPod
Newbie Joined: 21 Jan 2019 Location: TX - Texas Online Status: Offline Posts: 10 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 9:00am |
Hi Stephen--yes these are good points. We did have the heat pads running while we were driving to Taos Friday night and battery voltage never dropped, so I'm assuming the tow vehicle output was enough to keep up with it. Nothing was frozen when we got there, but may not have had enough time to freeze. It wasn't until we spent the night that the shower/toilet lines froze. We tried turning the heater inside up at night, but those lines to shower and toilet that run through the floor were still frozen the next morning. Sink water and fresh tank never froze and the heat tape worked to keep the exposed supply line flowing.
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 8:47am |
Skirting would definitely help, but that only works if you are going to be in one place for long enough to make the work worthwhile. It does not work when you are in motion. Neither does the heat pads unless you have a high enough amperage output of your tow vehicle to support it plus charge your battery/batteries. You could run a generator also while going down the road, but even that might not work since the airflow would tend to negate the heat of the pads unless you also were able to cover the bottom of the RPod to help seal in the heat. If you covered the bottom, foaming in the spaces around the tanks and lines would also help, but you would have quite a time in getting to any wiring or LP lines if work needed to be done.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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SkiPod
Newbie Joined: 21 Jan 2019 Location: TX - Texas Online Status: Offline Posts: 10 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 8:41am |
We just went up to Taos Ski Valley from Dallas for the long weekend to go skiing in our 2016 176 Rpod. I wanted to have access to water and shower so I put heating pads on the three tanks, 12V self-regulating heat tape on the exposed fresh water line from tank and wrapped in the pipe insulation with aluminum tape going on before and after. I also put the heat tape around the grey water valve. Last weekend it was subzero, around -6 at night in the ski valley but was warming up to near freezing during the day. The only trouble we had was that in the morning each day the hot and cold water to the shower as well as the toilet water was frozen. We left the electric heater on high all day (took a generator with us) and when we got back the lines were no longer frozen. The lines are not exposed but run through the floor. So I suspect that just being adjacent the bottom layer of the floor was enough to freeze the lines at these temps. Not sure what can be done about that except maybe putting insulation under the Rpod or adding a skirt? The electric heater would keep up with keeping the RV warm inside, even too warm. We didn't add any extra insulation anywhere.
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 1:11pm |
+1 on keeping the freshwater system winterized and carrying fresh water for drinking. We have a Reliance Products Hydroller 8-gallon water carrier that we have used on winter trips. We used RV antifreeze for flushing #2, not needed for #1. Since we were traveling for much of this, most needs were taken care of at rest stops. It was just nighttime that it became an issue.
Definitely lower the thermostat at night and, if you have them, use sleeping bags to stay warm. Turn the thermostat up during the day for comfort. That way, you will conserve propane and battery power. |
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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YODT
Newbie Joined: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Texas Online Status: Offline Posts: 28 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 10:41am |
Thanks for the great advice all, I'm looking forward to the mountains as always!
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RichC
Groupie Joined: 24 Feb 2017 Location: Chicago Online Status: Offline Posts: 70 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 10:21am |
Midges sound good--except I need about 4x magnification to tie them on. Seriously, my wife and I traveled from Chicago to California and back this January. For most of the trip the temps were around what you anticipate. Second day out we de-winterized and carried some water in tank for flushing. Jug water for drinking. We left thermostat at 50-55. We were fine. Re-winterized the day before we got back. Have fun--wish I was fishing.
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texman
Senior Member Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Location: TeXas Online Status: Offline Posts: 446 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 9:59am |
yodt
I was in the Rio Grande outside taos last march in our 182g twice. What elevation will you be camping at? I had no problems and like Mcarter said, it takes a long time to freeze that water and most of the fresh water plumbing is somewhat enclosed anyway. I would fill up the fresh water tank and use it. The heat from the ground will help provide some heat to the bottom of the pod and the furnace takes care of the inside. you can leave a small drip as well and use the vault toilets if you have them. |
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