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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Solar panel recommendations
    Posted: 27 Jan 2020 at 9:51am
Originally posted by Colt

Well, you need to calculate your demand in watts times the hours you will use whatever it is.  That is watt-hours  Then, size your panel(s) to generate that many watt-hours during a 6 hour charging day (average hours of full power generation in a day). 

So, if you run 20 watts of lights x 6 hours, 80 watts of TV x 4 hours, 10 watts of ventilation x 8 hours, you have 120 watt-hr + 320 watt-hr + 80 watt-hr = 520 watt-hr.  You need a 100 watt panel (100 watts x 6 hrs), it you set the angles for best generation.  Your Watts May Vary.

Size the battery bank for your load x 3 days of no sun and double that so the battery doesn't drop below 50% charge.  520 w-h x 3 x 2 = 3120 w-h.  Divide watts by 12.5V and you get 250 Amp-Hr.  That's a lot of battery, but you get the gist.  You may find it acceptable to run with 1 or 2 days reserve and then recharge with your vehicle, or a small, suitcase gas generator.  Two Group 24DC batteries like my 180 has would be 150 a-H, almost 2 days. 

Its better to run this calculation in amp hours than in watt hours. This is because if you do it in watts hours you aren't taking into account the losses in the solar module and battery. If you do it in amps and amp hours those losses are taken care of automatically.

Measure each of the loads in amps using a clamp on multimeter. Multiply each by the number of hours of daily operation and add them up to get total load amp hours per day. Divide that number by 4 for a less sunny area or 5 for a sunnier area. Look up the max power current rating  (not the watt rating) of the solar module you're interested in and be sure that its that value or higher. That should run your loads indefinitely on solar in a clear location in spring, summer, and early fall. If you only want to extend a battery charge for a few days of camping you can get a smaller solar module.

You can use the daily amp hour number you calculated to size your battery as discussed in the post above. 
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Colt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 7:12pm
Well, you need to calculate your demand in watts times the hours you will use whatever it is.  That is watt-hours  Then, size your panel(s) to generate that many watt-hours during a 6 hour charging day (average hours of full power generation in a day). 

So, if you run 20 watts of lights x 6 hours, 80 watts of TV x 4 hours, 10 watts of ventilation x 8 hours, you have 120 watt-hr + 320 watt-hr + 80 watt-hr = 520 watt-hr.  You need a 100 watt panel (100 watts x 6 hrs), it you set the angles for best generation.  A little higher panel wattage will not hurt.  Your Watts May Vary.

Size the battery bank for your load x 3 days of no sun and double that so the battery doesn't drop below 50% charge.  520 w-h x 3 x 2 = 3120 w-h.  Divide watts by 12.5V and you get 250 Amp-Hr.  That's a lot of battery, but you get the gist.  You may find it acceptable to run with 1 or 2 days reserve and then recharge with your vehicle, or a small, suitcase gas generator.  Two Group 24DC batteries like my 180 has would be 150 a-H, almost 2 days. 
John
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 10:04am
I agree. Not a bad deal. If you shop around you might find less expensive panels, but a controller for $20 is pretty good. Like ODR, I have a bigger panel (150 watt) that I got for around $700 a few years ago (that's right $4.50 per watt (the bad old days)).
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2020 at 4:01pm
Originally posted by jamonrob

I have a 2018 179 Hood River. What do you think of this current deal at Costco?

Coleman 100W Solar Panel With 8.5 AMP Charge Controller

$119.99

Thanks


First, the hyperlink is now active if someone wish to have a look (on this reply only).

It's 100 watts of solar with a $20 controller. Priced about right for what it is, $1 a watt. Look at the size and decide how you will store it. I do like it's a panel vs. 3-4 panels connected (like HF). I also like it is Hard framed and the back connectors are correct (unlike HF). There are no final connectors on the leads and you will need to solder and protect them (not a deal breaker). Do realize this is pba based battery system, not lithium. You would replace the controller for one designed for Lithium if you so wished.

Not an unreasonable purchase as an entry to solar. You can always upgrade as you go and can afford. 

I have the same type panel I bought several years back at $1.50 a watt (mine is a 130w) and it was a steal at that time! 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2020 at 12:51pm
I have a 2018 179 Hood River. What do you think of this current deal at Costco?
https://www.costco.com/.product.100389117.html?&EMID=B2C_2020_0116_Automotive

Coleman 100W Solar Panel With 8.5 AMP Charge Controller

$119.99

Thanks

Rob Gonzales
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 6:42pm
Originally posted by will910

Where did you mount your charge controller

In our 177, I mounted it on the rear wall of the storage compartment in the rear of the unit.  It just screwed in with shallow screws, and we never had a problem with it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2018 at 1:39pm
Where did you mount your charge controller
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 1:09pm
Knowing what you will use and how to replace the use is very important, as Pod has implied/stated.

Will, has shown a simple way to control that re-charge with the system supplied with your solar kit/package.

What can 'you' live with or without? That is the real question at hand.
A good set of dual 6v batts will get you there. And you really don't have to spend a lot to get there.

Me, I'm going to draw a bit more than Pod, yet it is still workable.

The only mistake in my mind is not camping! So is my opinion...

Share your decisions and we all will grow from it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 12:16pm
Great information, thank you!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 11:03pm
Our personal experience is a combination of charging methods.  We use our pod for long term travels-multi week , long distance journeys.  We just returned from a 11,000 mile, 12 week trip. Most of those days camping were in areas that had no power. We try to boondock if possible.

We have a Renogy 100 watt suitcase panel. We use the panel with a 25' extension cord( 12 gauge) in order to have the panel in the sun and the pod in the shade.  Our controller is mounted inside the pod and is watched closely. We try to set the panel for maximum sun angle and direction when we leave camp in the morning.  this method works for us on a daily basis to recharge if we can get as little as 3 hours of good sun.  Less sun obviously means less power put back into the batteries.

One thing that people don't talk much about is that the batteries don't have to fully charged to 100% all the time.  You can still use everything without harming a true deep cell battery.  It is made to be used-partially discharged and then recharged constantly and for many recharge/use cycles.  We are not fully 100% charged unless we  are always plugged in to an external power source. Let's talk about boondocking . Assume that you start with 100% charge. The first day and night you use the battery down to 85%. Next day your solar panel raises it back to 95%. then the next day/night cycle you use it down to  80%.  then a good day and you are back up to 100%.  and on and on. Use it up, replenish at least part of the power, but not necessarily all of it. Next day, use more, then replenish all of it.  On and on, giving and taking. Filling, using, refilling. Not 100% perhaps, but till totally usable and safe.

 Our longest stay without power was 13 days on the Oregon coast.  Our batteries never went below 75% SOC.  We had a mix of great sun, fog, clouds, partial sun  and rain. We are very careful with our power usage and can easily get 5 days or more from our 2 six volt golf cart batteries without recharging   Winter time use will increase the usage dramatically if using the heat/fan.  We use mostly 1 pound gas cylinder heaters. We run the fridge on propane always.  We do not use the water heater at all-- all of our hot water is heated on the propane stove.  We have 2 small solar lanterns that we use as much as we can. We don't use the AC or the microwave.  we have 2 12v fans  to make a breeze.  We also use a propane portable oven for baking bread or meals. We try to recharge our phones and ipads in the vehicle when driving as much as possible, but can recharge them in the pod's 12volt system. . So, as you see, we really are frugal with power. 

 I am a big advocate of solar power IF your camping style will handle it.  We are probably pretty extreme compared to most podders. We love boondocking and are willing to alter our power usage to accommodate the style.  However, I will add that we also have on several occasions used our jumper cables on our batteries when we had to.  We were very careful about attaching them correctly and in the proper order as noted in our ford owner's manual.  We also limited the time charging to 30 minutes. It brought our batteries from 50% up to 75% in 30 minutes.

when we did stay in a campground with facilities we made sure that everything we had was fully charged when we left.

Hope this helps give another perspective of power usage and recharging.
Travel safe,
Vann 


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