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Topic ClosedWF 8955 Converter - Event Date: 14 Apr 2017 - 07 Oct 2017

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Richand Cindy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: WF 8955 Converter
    Posted: 19 Nov 2017 at 8:11am
This is very helpful.  We had our converter fail and was replaced.  Now that I think about it, before it failed we drove on the Lake Ontario State Highway in New York State.  The road was empty despite a busy weekend of traffic everywhere else.  There was one section of road that warned of a bumpy section for the next 6 or 8 miles.  It was horrible.  Imagine being on an empty highway only able to do 25 mph due to the road.  It was like a constant rumble strip.  Considering that the WFCO is attached above the axle, I would conclude that it is a FR design flaw and not the converter that is the problem.  Perhaps the  progressive converter is not a better fix since it too can crack under pressure.  Next spring I think I will attempt to remove the converter and reattach it on a rubber base or some equivalent type of floater
OLD 2017.5 RPOD 180 + 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 6:39am
Thanks ChetC you were right!

The Progressive converter I used (PD4655MBA) was the replacement board that retrofits into the existing WFCO housing, I'll check the fit when I replace it and insure the board can't flex by using some sort of non conductive support media, being cautious not to hinder any cooling properties.


One thing I noticed is the converter in the 180 is positioned in the trailer right above the axle, whereas in other models and brands they are sometimes located in a "softer" ride area.

Thanks
David
Lafayette La
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ChetC View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by Davidb

Converter Failure diagnosis

...Placed circuit board under magnifier lamp and noticed one of the legs on one the devices (MOSFET) that is connected to the aluminum heat-sink is sheared in two.

Obviously a vibration issue...

Ah-ha!  Thank you for verifying my theory.
Former 2017 rPod 180 owner
Now in a 2019 Little Guy MAX
Full timer who logs more than 35,000 miles per year.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 10:18am
Converter Failure diagnosis

I brought the Progressive Dynamics converter to work today and we put it on the bench, applied AC volts to converter, no DC output at all.

Placed circuit board under magnifier lamp and noticed one of the legs on one the devices (MOSFET) that is connected to the aluminum heat-sink is sheared in two.

Obviously a vibration issue, I saw an earlier post about using some anti vibration foam, the heat-sink is extremely large and placed on the edge of the board causing the board to flex.

The R-pod and other single axle trailers seem to bounce up and down like a jack rabbit going down the highway.

At least I know it wasn't a voltage surge problem, although I did order a voltage EMS system yesterday that I will use from this point forward.

Comparing the Progressive Dynamics and the WFCO side by side you can see how the Progressive really is a well built rugged beast, I'm sure I had a rare failure.

David
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 5:35pm
I agree, it doesn't matter what brand of trailer you have, they don't make the individual components that can fail such as the converter, water heater, water pump, fridge, axles, etc. I just deal with them as they pop up and try to carry a backup plan for most problem scenarios.

Wouldn't consider bringing it to a dealer for warranty or service, simply too frustrating having them tell you the warranty didn't cover the problem(s) and pay through the teeth for an attempt at a fix.

I sold a Livin Lite trailer that was built to last a lifetime and bought the r-pod knowing it was "stick and staple" construction, but it fit our needs a little better until the day Livin Lite or someone else builds a solid smaller pod type trailer.

We stopped and looked at some Lances in Ft Worth Texas on our return trip from Colorado and they are built extremely well, we like the 1475 with no slideout.

The Arctix Fox Nash 17 K is one awesome trailer!!!

David
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

Originally posted by Caryd

I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com


Why blame FR for a supplier problem?  You could have the same issue with your new RV.


+ 1.

FR didn't build the converter, and almost every 30A small camper out there has a WFCO converter. Over the last 18 months or so, everybody from Jayco to Airstream has had these failures. But, it is what it is, and the Arctic Fox is otherwise a nicely built camper, though, just like our Lance, quite a bit more money too.

Enjoy, that's what it's all about.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by Caryd

I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com


Why blame FR for a supplier problem?  You could have the same issue with your new RV.
Keith-N-Dar
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 3:34pm
I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 9:41am
Thanks for the tips, yes I understand the function of the converter ( i actually called the converter an inverter the other day while troubleshooting with a Progressive Dynamics tech and he immediately corrected me)

I have to constantly explain to my wife the differences between AC line power, DC battery power from the tow vehicle recharging the DC batteries, solar panels recharging the batteries and the GoPower inverter we use (coffee percolater 600 watts) to convert DC to AC while dry camping with no AC power.

No I don't use a surge or power conditioner but think it is time to employ one in the future, I see Progressive Industries has a new portable unit EMS-PT30X that looks good.
I do check the pedestal with a DVM for proper hot, neutral and ground configuration, but realize it does nothing for you when the neighbor rolls in and plug his trailer in to the same circuit your on with one of his outlets causing a "hot skin" condition that he now shares with his fellow campers on the same branch.

The final straw on cutting our Florida trip short was when the battery got so low the Dometic fridge control panel that needs 12volts dc started beeping while it was running on propane, i backed the truck up and connected the trailer plug to give it a little juice, the neighboring campers probably wondered why my truck was sitting there idling so much while we were sitting around the campfire.

I read in the Dometic manual where the RM8501 has an optional battery compartment for 8 AA batteries to power up the control panel, I googled it and can't find any info on it.

I just replaced the Progressive Dynamics converter with the spare WFCO,it's putting out 13.7vdc, will try to send back the PD tomorrow.

Update: I just purchased the EMS power management system.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x

Thanks
David


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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 7:14am
Originally posted by Davidb

I found the fridge stays much cooler on the DC mode while traveling than the propane mode.

I always run the fridge on propane when traveling and it keeps ice cream hard in the freezer compartment.  I don't know how much cooler it needs to get. 

It doesn't seem like running the fridge on DC would affect the converter, although it is a really big draw.  There seems there aren't many people who have good things to say about running it on DC.

It has been reported that there were a lot of bad converters put in Pods, and other campers, for a while.  Maybe you did get another one of the bad ones.  My converter has been cranking right along just fine.  They just don't make things like they used to....

TT
2010 176
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