Hello from Horn Lake, Ms

We were about to drive to Ohio to get a good price on a new R Pod but then I found a 179 2016 in almost new condition at a dealer in Paragould Arkansas. So if you are persistent you can find a deal on RV Trader. We saved $5000. The only thing wrong was the frig was dead. I asked the dealer the dimensions and we happened to have a mini frig that fit perfect. Of course it's AC only but that's no biggie. I do need to figure a way to secure the door from opening. I got a Rhino hose kit for the black water then realized a 15 ft. hose would not fit in the storage tube on the trailer tongue. So a new bigger tube will be installed on the frame under the trailer. Waiting a new mattress topper, water hose, filter, pressure control gauge and 90 degree brass elbow. Also have to get some type of level system. Probably going on a short trip this weekend. We us luck as we are first time owners who previously camped in tents or cabins.

+1 on the Andersen leveler. It's a dual-purpose device that levels and chocks at the same time. The only issue with it is it's really only good for 4 inches of "correction", and some would argue not quite that much. We also carry an auxiliary chock because at some extremes, the Andersen is not quite enough "chock" for lack of a better description.

My wife works for a company that distributes instruments, PA equipment and things. One is the Marshall line of amps and they had these little refrigerators for promotional items like Fender has caps, bar stools and t- shirts. It had a couple dents on the side and we got it for nothing. So are RV refrigerators different in they way they function? Is there a way a 110 volt refrig can run on DC power?

Originally posted by Noglo My wife works for a company that distributes instruments, PA equipment and things. One is the Marshall line of amps and they had these little refrigerators for promotional items like Fender has caps, bar stools and t- shirts. It had a couple dents on the side and we got it for nothing. So are RV refrigerators different in they way they function? Is there a way a 110 volt refrig can run on DC power?

Sounds like a nice fringe benny!

If you want to run a AC appliance on DC power source all you need is an inverter to change the DC (direct current) to AC (alternating current) that is rated to handle the power your using (Watts). So if your 110VAC refrigerator draws let say 2 amps make sure you get a inverter that can handle 220 Watts plus. Ohms law P (power)=I (current rated in amps) X E (Voltage). I think I have that right, still on my first cup of coffee!

Something that may not be obvious is that if your AC refrigerator draws 2 amps (AC), then you need to figure the amperage load on your battery (through the inverter) will be approximately 10X that, or ~~ 20 amps. So be clear on exactly how much current the refrigerator is drawing, because 20 amps (using the above example) is quite a hefty load on the battery. You would not be able to do that very long.