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Topic ClosedDead Dometic RM8501

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spydie View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Dead Dometic RM8501
    Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 12:36pm
Still reading the latest service manual and their new design is both interesting and a welcome change:

In recent years Dometic has engineered a new type of cooling unit that utilizes an improved siphon pump tube design which drastically reduces the possibility of permanent damage to the coils if operated in an out-of-level condition, or too much heat is generated at the boiler section. As we can see from this drawing, the siphon pump tube is enclosed in the design and is surrounded by a weak ammonia solution, which will protect the pump tube from abnor- mally over-heating. This type of unit; however, does not eliminate the need for proper leveling. The unit still requires gravitational flow to provide the proper cooling process, and if leveling is outside the necessary limits, cooling will dramatically slow down or stop completely. The cooling coils are not normally damaged in this fashion and once proper leveling is main- tained, the cooling process will resume.

Spirit or bubble levels are no longer being supplied with the new style refrigerators as the RV or vehicle only needs to be leveled so it is comfortable to live in, with no noticeable sloping of the floor or walls. For diagnosis, the new style cooling units that incorporate the protection boiler system, can be differentiated from the older style coils by the shape and design of the outer boiler box cover on the rear of the cooling unit. These units will incorporate a circular metal cover,

while the older style utilizes a square shaped enclosure. We will discuss diagnosis and troubleshooting of these units in more detail later in the program.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 12:24pm
Good guess.... better than any of my guesses ;)  Not sure though.  

Paul
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 11:08am
Is it a port to check the gas pressure?
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 6:50am
BTW, does anyone know what the brass thing is in the incoming propane line in the refer compartment just ahead of the gas valve?  It is a solid brass block with a hex screw cap on the side.  Is it a regulator?  If so, does it require maintenance?  Because it is not officially part of the refer, it is not in the service manual.  Just curious.  

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 4:19pm
I'm guessing it's easier to specify a delta of 30-40 degrees with thermoelectric (thermopile) coolers because they are almost always surround by ambient air. 

An RV installation of the absorption fridge can vary wildly as well as environment surrounding fridge. In warm or hot weather, I will run the pod AC in my driveway to noticeably make a difference in fridge performance before loading (front side considerably cooler than back side).

My ideal arrangement would be a NovaKool compressor fridge only and a Dometic Portable setup as a chest freezer. More cold beer, more solid ice cream!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 4:00pm
Originally posted by spydie

Tell me what a delta measurement is please
A "delta" measurement is the difference between two values.  Delta = value 1 minus value 2.  For example, put one thermocouple in free air outside the trailer and the other in the refrigerator.  The DIFFERENCE between the internal and external temperatures is the "delta" temperature.  

You will find some refrigerators (especially thermopile refrigerators like simple electric coolers) have a specified minimum delta temperature, which would be a measure of their ability to cool.  I think my Coleman electric cooler is spec'd at something like 30 or 40 degrees.... the inside will be 30-40 degrees cooler than the outside ambient.  

I'm sure our Dometics have a minimum delta spec but I doubt Dommetic will share it with us.  Much easier to claim proper operation when all specs are as vague as possible ;)  

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 3:37pm
Tell me what a delta measurement is please
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 3:31pm
Originally posted by spydie

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Dometic wouldn't accept my remote refrigerator sensor (an outdoor thermometer) even though I checked the calibration with a bulb thermometer.  They claim the only reading they will accept from the servicing dealer is the 'water glass' test.  I don't know what kind of sensor you are using nor how accurate it is, nor where you have it placed (that makes a big difference), but I'd like to know more about it, please?
I'm just using a $20 dual thermocouple meter I bought on Ebay to measure model helicopter motor temperatures.  It seems pretty accurate... within a degree at worst.  Since it has two thermocouple inputs (and came with two thermocouples) it can even make delta measurements if you want.  

I placed a single thermocouple in free air between the rods of the lower shelf.  

Final stabilized measurements at 74 degrees ambient and at the middle setting after a couple hours operation are:

PROPANE = 37 degrees
120VAC = 40 degrees

I'm not sure I could hear the flame from a couple feet away but I can definitely hear it now with my head near the lower vent.  

Paul

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 2:52pm
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Dometic wouldn't accept my remote refrigerator sensor (an outdoor thermometer) even though I checked the calibration with a bulb thermometer.  They claim the only reading they will accept from the servicing dealer is the 'water glass' test.  I don't know what kind of sensor you are using nor how accurate it is, nor where you have it placed (that makes a big difference), but I'd like to know more about it, please?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 2:11pm
I read somewhere that if you are using a remote reading meter to measure internal temperature, the water glass is not required.  They simply want to ensure that the temperature is the actual internal temperature PRIOR to opening the door and the glass of water slows down any temperature changes when the door is opened.  

I think I'll give it a rest for now.  After cleaning the orifice, it has gone from ZERO cooling on gas to frost covered freezer fins (freezer compartment removed) and a steady 41 degrees on middle setting (36 degrees on middle + 1 setting) at a 74 degree external ambient.  

My interpretation is that the absorption process is kinda binary.... below a certain amount of input heat, the circulation / cooling stops altogether instead of tapering off linearly in spite of continued heat input.  So if the flame is present but reduced in size due to a dirty orifice, you might have no cooling on gas..... as in my case.  

I have also found that the Dometic manuals are amazingly pathetic.  For example, they show you (with PICTURES, even) how to make ice in two paragraphs.... paragraph 1 shows putting water in the ice cube tray (with photo) and paragraph two shows placing the ice cube tray in the freezer (with photo).  Golly, how would I EVER have figured that one out??? By contrast, the troubleshooting section under "refrigerator does not cool adequately" completely omits checking that the unit is level.  

Paul
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