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WillThrill
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Topic: installing Inverter Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 4:10pm |
Originally posted by dherman201
So now I think I am all wrong on this. In the panel is only the positive side right. Then the buss behind the panel is the negative buss. I actually have 3 fuses available
So I connect the positive wire to the fused in the panel and the negative behind to the buss?
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Correct, the breaker box is where you will connect your positive (hot and red) lines, and the buss bar, generally screwed into the floor, is for neutral (white).
And, IMHO, a pure sine wave inverter is largely a waste of money. People go on and on about 'sensitive' electronics, but these days, anything that is truly sensitive uses an AC to DC converter that doesn't care one bit if the incoming AC power is a modified sine wave or a pure sine wave. And yes, I've run a $2k laptop from a $20 200 watt inverter for many hours with absolutely no problems whatsoever. I've also run the Pod's built in TV from one with no problems there either.
The only device that truly requires a pure sine wave is a synchronous AC motor, and those are not found in homes, generally machine shops.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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sailor323
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Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 5:24pm |
Personally, I think hardwiring the inverter is not really convenient. It limits where it can be used. I prefer to plug it in where it is needed. I agree that a pure sine wave device is un-necessary.
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dherman201
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Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 6:20pm |
So how about grounding. Is that not necessary if using a panel circuit because the circuit is already grounded? Deb
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CharlieM
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Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 7:35pm |
Originally posted by WillThrill
Correct, the breaker box is where you will connect your positive (hot and red) lines, and the buss bar, generally screwed into the floor, is for neutral (white).
| One correction. The bus bar attached to the frame or floor is the Ground, not Neutral. It is populated with bare wires, although it may have some white wires too. The bus connecting only white wires is the 120V AC neutral and should not be grounded or used for 12VDC grounds. This is a safety issue.
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Charlie
Northern Colorado
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dherman201
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 1:45am |
My blue sea USB charger port indicates a 2A supply fuse. Do I need this in addition to the 15 A fuse in the breaker box.
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Guests
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 7:30am |
If I understand your situation correctly......
Installing a 2 amp fuse would limit the amount of current to the charging port to 2 amps. If the device exceeded that, the fuse would blow. Most phones, tablets, etc. require less than this.
This might "come into play" if the device being charged were to malfunction and pull more than 2 amps. The 2 amp fuse would blow before the 15 amp fuse. Your 10 or 12 gauge wire should handle the 15 amp current OK so, little danger of it overheating/fire. If the device is pulling 15 or more amps, the 15 amp fuse will blow. In either case, if you are blowing fuses when attempting to charge, your device probably needs serviced or replaced.
So, in short, installing the 2 amp fuse would be good and most safe but, you would probably be OK without it.
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dherman201
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 10:21am |
Thought it was kind of strange. It's not like it is going to protect the phone from a surge of any kind, right. . It also says it is a 2.1A plug. I would think if anything else shorts the plug the 15 A fuse would blow.
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CharlieM
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 11:26am |
Originally posted by dherman201
Charlie do you prefer the cigarette lighter socket and then use the USB adapter . I bought a couple of USB sockets and thought I would just use them. Guess the cigarette lighter socket gives some other options.
| The USB 12V sockets with USB adapters are just a bit more versitile, and less expensive to replace if they fail, but the Blue Sea products are excellent and will serve very well. To your later post, the extra 2A fuse is not required. The fuse is to protect the wire, not the device. #12 wire protected by a 15A fuse is adequate. The USB adapters themselves would not require #12, smaller wire could be used since the total for two would only be 4A, but I would run #12 anyway. It's just as easy and you might want to change or add a socket someday.
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Charlie
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WillThrill
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 12:01pm |
Originally posted by CharlieM
One correction. The bus bar attached to the frame or floor is the Ground, not Neutral. It is populated with bare wires, although it may have some white wires too. The bus connecting only white wires is the 120V AC neutral and should not be grounded or used for 12VDC grounds. This is a safety issue.
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Yes, sorry for the mixup. Thanks for the correction.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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EddieC
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 12:23pm |
Originally posted by dherman201
Thought it was kind of strange. It's not like it is going to protect the phone from a surge of any kind, right. . It also says it is a 2.1A plug. I would think if anything else shorts the plug the 15 A fuse would blow. |
Just to be clear, the fuse is not there to protect the device. It's there to protect the wire. You can connect wire that is just large enough to easily carry 2 amps to a terminal that is fused for 15 amps as long as you include a 2 amp fuse.
If your 2 amp device fails and draws 14 amps, it will blow the 2 amp fuse but not the 15 amp fuse. If you do not include the 2 amp fuse, the wire will overheat to the point of catching on fire. Fire is bad.
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