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Olddawgsrule
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Topic: My Mods on Lily Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 9:22am |
18hr test. Looks about right. 228ma average (240ma if you wish to use the 12v baseline, I used standing voltage at 12.7)
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:50am |
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas
The specs on the Amazon site plainly state that this is for AC only. I agree, the title of the page is deceiving though. In this case, apparently "DC" means "Digital Current", as in digital current reader, as opposed to an analog current reader, I suppose. If you needed a reason to send it back that's good enough. That's a dam stupid title. Really stupid or intentionally deceptive.
I'm curious about the pics you posted though. You have this thing sitting on your battery and it appears to be reading 12.something volts.
TT
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It's sitting in a test spot to see if it works. Final home will be inside Lily.
Top left is battery voltage as it sits. Top right is amperage draw 'real time'. Lower left is Wattage 'real time'. Lower right is cumulative. Want to know what you sed in day/weekend/week?
Mounted on the battery to the right is the 'shunt' I refer to.
4 wires to the unit. 2 for battery voltage, 2 for amperage/wattage that run through the 'shunt'.
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Tars Tarkas
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Joined: 14 Jan 2013
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:31am |
The specs on the Amazon site plainly state that this is for AC only. I agree, the title of the page is deceiving though. In this case, apparently "DC" means "Digital Current", as in digital current reader, as opposed to an analog current reader, I suppose. If you needed a reason to send it back that's good enough. That's a dam stupid title. Really stupid or intentionally deceptive.
I'm curious about the pics you posted though. You have this thing sitting on your battery and it appears to be reading 12.something volts.
TT
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:06am |
Update on the 'coil' style unit. It came in 'marked' AC only. It will not even read DC voltage never mind Wattage.
It's going back.
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:03am |
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule
Ended up hooking in the 'shunt' unit. This is test location, final resting spot should be inside Lily.
Ghost draw.

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Please look at the wiring. I believe the smaller cable from the unit should be on the other side of the shunt. You folks are saying that's the charge line from the solar. I noticed it after I hooked it up. I have not yet hooked up 'shore power' in case I'm correct on this.
If I don't hear back (before I head out there), My plan is to swap it over to the battery terminal before I hook into 'shore power'.
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 6:44am |
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 6:41am |
Ended up hooking in the 'shunt' unit. This is test location, final resting spot should be inside Lily.
Ghost draw.

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GlueGuy
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Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 6:46pm |
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule
Originally posted by GlueGuy
Even though that has "DC" in the description, based on the fact that it is using a coil to sens, I think that is an AC-only sensor.
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If it's Iron core it should do DC. Question really is if it's true RMS (which I doubt for the dollar). Really doubt it's Hall.. Way to little money for that.
Now if it's ferrite core.. measurements should be pretty close even if non-RMS and adjusted.
All will be seen over the weekend and answered. No reason for any of you to spend the dollar till I know it works and how well. |
The core doesn't matter. A coil (regardless of core material) can "sense" an expanding/collapsing magnetic field. A DC current won't be changing, so cannot be sensed with a coil. So this would tell you the current on an AC line, but not a DC line. If you want to sense the current in a DC line, you need something like a hall effect sensor. This is what is used in AC/DC clamp-on meters.
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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 4:20pm |
Originally posted by GlueGuy
Even though that has "DC" in the description, based on the fact that it is using a coil to sens, I think that is an AC-only sensor.
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If it's Iron core it should do DC. Question really is if it's true RMS (which I doubt for the dollar). Really doubt it's Hall.. Way to little money for that.
Now if it's ferrite core.. measurements should be pretty close even if non-RMS and adjusted.
All will be seen over the weekend and answered. No reason for any of you to spend the dollar till I know it works and how well.
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Olddawgsrule
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Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 2:40pm |
Well, we're about to find out. Should be here today, but if not by the time I get back tomorrow.
I'm going to test it on my solar setup so I can compare readings against what I already have in place.
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