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Footslogger03
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Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posts: 362
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Topic: Bypass Valve for Adding Antifreeze Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:13pm |
Maybe HRE's different
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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Footslogger03
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Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posts: 362
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Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:34pm |
I re-watched the video we shot during our turnover briefing the day we picked up our 177. The service rep told us we'd need an "L" valve to use for pulling in antifreeze and bypassing the hot water heater. But when I saw this kit from Camco I thought it was a better system.
'Slogger
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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bhamster
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Joined: 19 May 2011
Location: Washington
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Posts: 165
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 12:22am |
Originally posted by Footslogger03
Maybe HRE's different |
We have an HRE 171 and it came with an extra hose that has a quick-disconnect fitting on one side. At first I was looking around for somewhere to plug it in, but there are no additional valves. You just disconnect the intake side of the pump and connect the hose instead. It was a bit intimidating the first time I tried it (I disconnected the wrong side of the pump and ended up blowing bubbles in my antifreeze  ). But after I did it once it was actually pretty simple.
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MTB Pod
Newbie
Joined: 30 Aug 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Posts: 9
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 8:29am |
Our 177 is also a 2012. I have looked everywhere, and have not been able to locate an intake hose. The bypass valves are under the bed, but there is no intake hose off the pump or under the sink that I've found. I was beginning to think it was just ours! Luckily, in Portland, we don't get below freezing long enough to have to worry about doing a full winterization. I just make sure to blow all the water out of the lines, drain the water heater, and pour anti-freeze down the drains to get the low-lying points in the traps. Marila
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Pete & Marila
Sacramento, CA
2012 RPod 177
2001 Ford F-150 Crew Cab
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Footslogger03
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Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posts: 362
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 9:28am |
What like the most about the valve I added is the cap that you just removed and replace with the tube for additng antifreeze. I figure I have to lift the bed to turn the bypass handles by the pump/water heater ...so it's an ideal place for the new valve. A long time ago I added hinges to the large board that sits under the bed so lifting it up now isn't so hard. Plus, I added some "legs" that hold it up at a steep enough angle for me to sit on a stool to do all the work. Lots easier on the back/knees.
'Slogger
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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bhamster
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Joined: 19 May 2011
Location: Washington
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 10:11am |
Originally posted by MTB Pod
there is no intake hose off the pump or under the sink that I've found. |
In our case it was just loose in the "goodie" bag that the dealer gave us. It's just couple feet of white hose with one of these on the end: That fitting fits directly into the intake side of the pump. If your dealer didn't give you one, you could easily make one for a few bucks (or upgrade to slogger's method).
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Footslogger03
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Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 10:43am |
Here's a picture of the "T Valve" assembly installed.
Everything to the left of the blue slide lock came with the kit. There was a black double female ended coupling, the brass valve assembly and the chrome covered brass cap with hose (laying on the floor to the rear of the hot water heater. The round brass cap in the middle of the assembly screws off and you attached the separate cap and hose. Then you turn the 3 white factory handles 90 degrees and do the same to the little lever you see just below/in front of the removable brass cap. Then just stick the loose end of the hose into a jug of antifreeze, open open your faucets and turn on the pump until you see pink stuff coming out.
This assembly stays in place year-round and the only need to access it is to remove the cap/replace it with the cap-hose assembly and turn the valve from the "open" to the "bypass" position.
Not what I would call a "perfect solution", and honestly I believe that Forest River should have just added an assembly like this to the base plumbing near the pump - - but sometimes you just have to play the cards your dealt. It works ...and that's all I care about. I think the entire kit (Camco, ordered off of Amazon) was around $6 or $8. I ordered some other stuff and got free delivery.
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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Footslogger03
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Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posts: 362
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 10:46am |
Originally posted by bhamster
Originally posted by MTB Pod
there is no intake hose off the pump or under the sink that I've found. |
In our case it was just loose in the "goodie" bag that the dealer gave us. It's just couple feet of white hose with one of these on the end: That fitting fits directly into the intake side of the pump. If your dealer didn't give you one, you could easily make one for a few bucks (or upgrade to slogger's method). |
===========================
Never got one of those ...
'Slogger
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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TIDALWAVE
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: MINNESOTA
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Posts: 315
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 11:15am |
Has FR stopped providing an antifreeze 'suction' hose on the pump line? My Pod came with an open ended hose adjacent to the pump with enough length to insert into an antifreeze gallon bottle. Just turn the divertor valve toward the open hose, turn on the pump and open the faucets.
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TIDALWAVE
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Seanl
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Joined: 19 Sep 2011
Location: Fredericton NB
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Posts: 633
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 1:21pm |
It looks like there may be a difference between the eastern and western setup of the Rpod My 2011 came with a setup like this.
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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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