![]() |
|
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <123> |
Author | |
RpodTed ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Jul 2015 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
![]() Posted: 04 Jun 2016 at 9:48am |
I've read thru the link that John sent and will test a couple of the tips in there:
- test the LP pressure (we were at 9,800 feet and low temp was ~30F when it decided to act up) - check wire connections on the limit switch (it sounds like it should re-set itself so not sure I can test it) - run it tonight to see how hot it is getting in the compartment where it sits (not sure how) - verify that it is really hitting the set temp when it turns off If none of this tells me anything, I'll start replacing parts, starting with the thermostat. I'll post what what I find out. |
|
![]() |
|
Appocalexx ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 May 2015 Location: AK Online Status: Offline Posts: 77 |
![]() |
Good thread, I would also start at the thermostat and wonder if the thermostat would be covered under warranty. If its like a standard housing thermostat then it should be fairly easy to get changed out. I would not think they are too expensive either. I would also check the manual for the thermostat there may be something in there for a reset or setting that may need to be changed and possibly more trouble shooting to do.
|
|
![]() |
|
RpodTed ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Jul 2015 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
![]() |
Was able to test the thermostat, it is working fine. Also was able to check the temp in the heater compartment while it was running. 97 degrees with room temp at 72. Did a little more research and found out that the heater is going into "lockout".
Possible issues: - regulator - contaminants in the fuel - leaking vent pipe - bad micro switch LP Fuel and regulator seem like good places to start so will borrow a tank next weekend to check the fuel. Will get some high temp silicon on the vent pipe to be safe (not sure how to test this). Will check the micro switch and all connections when it is opened up to get at the vent pipe. Stay tuned... |
|
![]() |
|
StephenH ![]() podders Helping podders - pHp ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6428 |
![]() |
If the initial problem occurred when the temperature was -30 F, it could be that the tank temperature with use cooled below the -44 F which is the boiling point for liquified propane. The lowered pressure might have initially caused a problem that then persisted.
|
|
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
|
![]() |
|
RpodTed ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Jul 2015 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
![]() |
Oh, I should have typed +30 not ~30 (tilde). ~30 and -30 do look alike.
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
StephenH ![]() podders Helping podders - pHp ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6428 |
![]() |
Oops! My eyes saw - instead of ~.
On our trip out west last winter, we had temperatures in the low 20's a couple of nights. Our heater behaved marvelously. One thing we did do was get a fan and set it at the opening under the bed to move heat from under the bed out into the pod. I think this is possibly one of the worst places this type of ductless heater can be placed. It blows out into that small space and much of the hot air gets pulled right back into the heater. One thing I did was to not put anything under the bed in that space. It is needed for air circulation. The fan helped greatly also. It was one that we picked up at a truck stop (Flying J, I think). It has 8 D cells in the base so it can run on battery power. It also has a 12V cord which, when plugged in, disconnects the batteries so that it runs on 12V power. I put a 12V outlet in next to the AC outlet to power it and other 12V items. Is it possible that the space under the bed trapped enough heat that the heater's limit switch detected an overheating condition? If so, then improving the air circulation may help. |
|
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
|
![]() |
|
johnmaci ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jun 2014 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 202 |
![]() |
I have the same battery fan:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B16VT6/ref=pd_luc_rh_sim_01_04_t_img_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cheap, works great, and two speed
|
|
![]() |
|
RpodTed ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Jul 2015 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
![]() |
Steven, yes I was suspecting that the limit switch was an issue but the cabinet temp seems reasonable at 97 when I was testing the thermostat. I checked the tolerances for the heater/cabinet and there is plenty of room in there. The limit switch was doing it's job when testing but I didn't run it as long so I still need keep it on the list. I'm thinking that you are right though and I'm planning on adding a vent to the cabinet to let some of that hot air out. I also like the fan idea for moving the hot air out from under the bed... I'll be adding this fan. It looks cool, thanks for the link John.
Still want to test the lp fuel... fridge was having a bit of a time starting as well but others I've owned all seemed to act the same way. I did have a lot of oil in my lines for a spare tank that I use for the bbq camping so I want to check that first. Keep the ideas coming. Thanks! |
|
![]() |
|
StephenH ![]() podders Helping podders - pHp ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6428 |
![]() |
This one I purchased is a Road Pro model. I looked and it is available on Amazon also. When I have it running, it is usually on the low setting. That is adequate to circulate the air.
You might also want to check and see how the furnace was mounted. I saw that whoever installed the furnace in my R-Pod did not use the furnace's mounting holes, but instead punched new ones that meant that the furnace was not quite in the location for which it was designed. It also was not quite square with the face. I moved it and used the correct mounting holes while squaring it with the face. It meant that the cover plate also fit better. I don't think you need to make holes in the cabinet. There is an air return, and the gaps around the sides of the faceplate are also cold air returns. It is designed so that cold air is pulled in around the perimeter of the housing to the back of the unit where the fan then blows it through the center heat exchanger part to be pushed out through the grill. The separate square grill face is also a return. It is easy to see if you take the faceplate off. I'll try to get a couple of pictures in the next day or so to illustrate what I have described. |
|
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
|
![]() |
|
RpodTed ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Jul 2015 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
![]() |
Well, I didn't get to test anything. Was busy getting mom out after a fire was headed her direction. All is well, fire is out. It didn't make it to her property. Not sure when I'll get back to the heater problem
![]() |
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <123> |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |