Help choosing WDH w/FSC

We have the Equalizer 4 point hitch and had the same problems with nuts and brackets getting loose.  After many attempts, I have finally gotten them so the nuts stay tight and the L brackets don't move.

I use double nylock nuts with thread cement(get the kind that it is not permanent) and double lock washers on each of the 4 bolts that hold the L brackets in place. I had to get new longer hardened bolts to accommodate the extra hardware.  I torqued them to mfg specs and they haven't come loose yet. 

The problem with the L brackets was that they kept getting pushed backward by the spring bars friction. I looked closely and measured carefully to discover that the problem happened because the R Pod frame height was about 1/16" shorter than the space between the upper and lower bolts.  this was enough space for the L bracket to be pushed backward at an angle.    After looking at many options, I used  one half of an exterior door hinge as a shim between the top bolt and the trailer frame.  I had to cut off the hinge pin barrels and grind a little off of the overall thickness in the center where the bolts was located. .  I made it a very  tight fit.  After the bolts were torqued, there is no slop or movement between the top bolt and the L bracket because it is solid with no space.  It hasn't moved since.

I still check them frequently with my torque wrench.

Vann

Originally posted by Pod People We have the Equalizer 4 point hitch and had the same problems with nuts and brackets getting loose.  After many attempts, I have finally gotten them so the nuts stay tight and the L brackets don't move. I use double nylock nuts with thread cement(get the kind that it is not permanent) and double lock washers on each of the 4 bolts that hold the L brackets in place. I had to get new longer hardened bolts to accommodate the extra hardware.  I torqued them to mfg specs and they haven't come loose yet.  The problem with the L brackets was that they kept getting pushed backward by the spring bars friction. I looked closely and measured carefully to discover that the problem happened because the R Pod frame height was about 1/16" shorter than the space between the upper and lower bolts.  this was enough space for the L bracket to be pushed backward at an angle.    After looking at many options, I used  one half of an exterior door hinge as a shim between the top bolt and the trailer frame.  I had to cut off the hinge pin barrels and grind a little off of the overall thickness in the center where the bolts was located. .  I made it a very  tight fit.  After the bolts were torqued, there is no slop or movement between the top bolt and the L bracket because it is solid with no space.  It hasn't moved since. I still check them frequently with my torque wrench. Vann