Brakes not working

I am new owner of a 2017 R-Pod model 178. I am using the CURT Echo smart Bluetooth brake controller for trailer brake usage. I had the Echo system installed by professionals. When I set it all up with the Trailer everything looks like the brakes are working. The brake controller is showing that it is doing what it's suppose to do as far as adjusting the brake intensity, etc. In other words it is showing that it is working as it should, only it's not. When I take it for test run, I am not getting any braking from the trailer ever though my brake controller is telling me that I am. It's like everything is working except the brake shoes are not activating. All lights also work good. Has anyone here had experience with the Echo Bluetooth set-up,...had god or bad luck with it? I have no idea when the last time the brakes were actually used on the trailer. I suppose the brake shoes could be a little frozen up and simply not able to move??? 

I did use one of those controllers so I’ve got a couple of questions for you:

Originally posted by Rpodrrr I did use one of those controllers so I’ve got a couple of questions for you: When placing your emergency flashers on with the vehicle parked do the brake lights on the trailer flash? If they do then listen at the trailer hub and you should hear the brakes pulsing on and off as the lights flash.. Second question: When hooked up to your trailer and slowly pulling forward. Punch the apps red button and hold it on. Do your brakes then drag? Also check the pins on you 7 pin connector ( both male and female sides) clean them up so you have really good connections ( I use a small nail file) and use some electrical connection grease to ensure positive connections.  I found the unit did work well for me but not as good as a hardwired brake system.

Hey sounds like you’re on the right track then and one side is frozen up or wiring connections bad.on my 172 the brake wires come down the drivers side of the trailer and are joined at the wheel then cross over the axel to the passenger side. On a dry day I cleaned up and soldered then wiring to assist with bad connections. Since the drivers side is pulsing,I’m curious if before you pull the hub you get in the vehicle and crank the blue tooth setting up and do a small tug test if the drivers side wheel locks up. If not you should really pull both sides off for inspection. I’m just curious at this point prior to your efforts. Best of luck and it all sounds good news at this point. 

Update,....I pulled both wheel drums. Good thing I did. One side that wasn't working at all had a broken wire, so obviously that was main reason it was not working. I repaired the broken wire, repacked the wheel bearings and put it all back together. The other side was operational but the pads were non existent. Just the metal that the pads used to be attached to.  I just decided to replace the entire back plate, with new everything,...pads, magnet, etc....new. About $160. I'll probably do the same with the other side in a few weeks just so they're both the same. Heading out on my first shake down cruise soon.