Solar generators

Originally posted by gpokluda Wanted to give you all an update on what I decided. Thanks for all of the information and advice! I decided to forgo the Jackery solar generator and add a portable solar panel kit to the mix. I skipped the solar port on the backend of the R179 and set up a quick disconnect at the battery bank (two batteries and yes, I have an inline fuse ). I also installed a Renogy 1000 watt pure sine inverter along with a fuse and battery disconnect in the storage compartment at the front of the R179. I added two outlets with USBs in the trailer, one by the bed along with the inverter's remote control and one in the kitchen. Everything seems to work as planned. Batteries charged up fine in the weak February sun in New Mexico. The 1000 watt inverter runs our small, 4 cup coffee pot and charges our electrical devices which is all we wanted to do in the first place. Taking it all out in a couple weeks camping in the Southern desert in New Mexico but still taking the generator just in case.  Gino 2017 R179 2016 Frontier SV

Curious how your trip with the new solar setup went?

Sounds like you have it covered!

That's just fine. But it should still get a fuse at the battery end. The "solar ready" connector on the rpod doesn't provide one, so if the kit you get doesn't provide one either you can just get an inline fuse holder from NAPA or online and a 15A fuse and add it.   

The "solar ready" rpods just have wires pulled for a solar connection, no controller, no fuses.

There is no reason at all you have to use them. You can also connect directly to your trailer battery if that is more convenient. In my opinion for a portable system it is. Why suffer from voltage losses (which at 12V can be significant) just to get to the rear of the trailer from the front, if you're going to connect a portable kit anyway?

Either way you connect, starting from the battery, you need an inline fuse at the battery +12v terminal to protect the wire to your controller. Next comes the controller, then the solar module. You will have a +12V and a negative connection to make between each. That's all there is to the electrical connections, very simple.

I would suggest using a minimum of 12 gauge wire and wire run of at least 25 feet so you can move your portable solar module to a nearby sunny spot. A 15 amp fuse would be good back at the battery.

A 100 to 120 watt solar module works well for most people. Get a glass/aluminum frame module, not a so-called flexible module. Pretty much any brand will be fine, you do not need to pay extra for one of the RV name brands. Be sure it has the right voltage for 12V battery charging (max power voltage around 17-18V is what you're looking for).

You can attach some fold up aluminum back legs to the module so you can tilt it up, just a couple pieces of small aluminum angle bolted to the frame and allowed to rotate will work fine.

For controllers, a simple PWM type will work for a basic system. You can mount that to the battery box, inside a front storage area, or to the back of the solar module. Or both. Your choice. The controller should be rated for 15 to 20 amps.

The cable can be hardwired at the solar module end with a connector at the trailer end or vice versa. An inexpensive way to make up a nice flexible cable would be to buy a heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord and cut the connectors off at both ends Dont use the 120Vac connectors for 12V, that creates a safety hazard down the road when someone could inadvertently connect 120V there. The Anderson connectors StephenH suggests are a good choice.

I know the Rpod already has a solar connector. So do I need to get a controller if I decide to the portable solar panel route and hook up to the solar port on the side? Thanks.