Boondocking Prep

If you generally camp under trees don't do a roof mount solar array. Shading even a small number of cells in a solar module takes it out of service. If you generally camp in the open then fine, but be sure the array is kept clear of dirt and debris.

The lowest cost way to have a 200 plus watt solar array is to buy either a residential solar module (about 39x65 inches, 40 lbs, and 280 ish watts) or an industrial module (about 38x77 inches, 50 lbs and 350 ish watts). These are readily available as project leftovers (try Craigslist) for around 50 cents a watt or less. Do not buy the so called "flexible" modules, glass and aluminum frame modules are much more reliable and long lived.

Then, get a 20 amp MPPT charge controller. Look on Amazon and get one thats getting good reviews. Mount that near your batteries. You will also need a couple MC4 connectors and 10 gauge cabling of the length you want to be able to place your solar module in the sun near your camping area, 50 ft is usually good.

Add a 30A fuse at the + battery post and use 10 gauge wire between your batteries and the controller.

Make a couple folding back legs out if some aluminum angle so you can set the module on the ground (in landscape so it won't tip over) and swing the back legs out to adjust the tilt angle so the module is facing the sun. Just swing the legs back in to stow the module.

Re batteries, the most cost effective solution for most folks is two 200-ish amp hour 6V flooded golf cart batteries, case size GC2. The AGM batteries don't provide enough benefit to be worth the additional cost. The very best solution is lithium batteries if you plan on keeping your rpod a long time and/or need more than about 100 amphours capacity (you should not take out more than around 50% capacity of lead acid batteries). But you will need to change out charge control systems (shore power and TV as well as solar) to use those.

Re inverters, be realistic about how big an inverter you get. Energy = power x time, or power = energy/time. You can only store around 1.2 kwh of usable energy in a dual lead acid battery system that fits on an rpod. 12V inverters are only around 80% efficient so that is another loss. So if you have a 1500 watt inverter running a 1500 watt AC load you will only get about 35-40 minutes of operation before your batteries need to be recharged, if there was nothing else at all in the trailer using electrical energy. And it will take a whole sunny day to recharge the battery after running that load for 35 minutes.   

In practice that means leave the hair dryer and electric coffee pot at home when boondocking, forget about running the air conditioner, and don't expect more than some popcorn popping in the micro.

Is it worth it to have a big inverter to pop some popcorn? Up to you but most folks bring along a generator to run the micro and the a/c. And dont forget that big inverters are less efficient than small ones running small loads.

Personally I don't bother with an inverter at all. Everything I need runs on 12V more efficiently (including a dual voltage TV and USB charge ports) and I kick on the Honda 2K if I want to microwave or run the a/c (not at the same time).

Thanks for the advice & recommendations, folks!  I have everything on order to 'up' me Pod to two 20# propane tanks, but have decided to scrap the solar plan.  Male Pattern Baldness negates the need for a hairdryer, and I don't drink coffee...

Dave, I just retired a nearly 11 year old battery.  It was a group size 24 deep cycle Interstate 12v.  Have another one just like it, it will get a birthday cake with 11 candles on it next April.  As for a replacement, last month I purchased a Trojan T-1275 (golf car battery) 12v, 150 Ah, and weighs in at 85 lbs. It is a great upgrade as it was needed the extra tongue weight (usually travel with a full FW tank which is behind the axle on the 177).  The 11% tongue weight needed on the 177 is 320 lbs.  With that on the tongue I can get rid of 3 truck rotors that were taking up valuable storage space in the front stow area - my wife is happy.

You might need a bonding plug between the Genny and the circuit analyser. Many generators are ungrounded which will trip the analyser. Cheap and simple to make or buy if you do.find out you need it.

The a/c compressor has a very high startup surge current, requiring something in the range of 4kw momentarily. Most generators over around 3kw will start it fine. Many of us who prefer a smaller lighter generator have installed a device called an Easy start to allow a 2kw to start the a/c. You should be fine with your generator without it though.

The benefit of higher battery capacity for you would be less frequent generator starts, making it easier to just run the generator once a day at a convenient time for you and your neighbor campers. Of course, that depends on how much youre using your appliances and other devices.
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If you look as the life cycle cost of AGM lead acid batteries vs Li the Li batteries are cheaper now, not counting the changes you need to make in your charging systems. AGMs are not as cost effective for what you get as good old flooded golf cart deep cycle batteries, which is my recommendation if youre not ready to jump into the Li battery world.