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Topic Closedwinterizing an Rpod 178 - Event Date: 06 Apr 2021 - 12 Apr 2021

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albikes50 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: winterizing an Rpod 178
    Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 8:37pm
Has anyone tried blowing out all the water lines, water heater, toilet, etc. with compressed air to winterize and Rpod?  
Someone had suggested that, then just adding some RV antifreeze to the sink and toilet trap.  How much pressure can you safely blow through?  Where do you hook up the compressor and can you get by with just a single hookup?  Just trying to avoid putting antifreeze in the water lines and water heater.  Thanks for any help or suggestions with this.  We have a 2017 Rpod 178.  
Al M.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 8:41pm
That's been discussed many times on the forum. Many people winterize that way. There's even a youtube video or two on the subject.

Search for winterizing.
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 8:51pm
We use the blow the lines out method, but make it a practice to drain the water heater from the anode rod hole.  It needs to be inspected anyway and it's an opportunity to clean out all the gunk.  The one thing we didn't count on was that toilet valve doesn't drain well that way.  Though air goes through, it still has enough residual water to freeze and crack the valve.  I found out the hard way.  It is not a bad idea to take off the supply line and pump the pedal a few times to drain it.  
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 6:57am
Before starting this process close your 2 or 3 winterizing valves then drain your HW tank and flush out with a garden hose.  Open your 2 low point drains until dry and re-install.

We have used compressed air to blow out our 177 for 9 years.  Air pressure is set at 80 psi and the air chuck is inserted in the pigtail that is downstream from the 3 way valve (on ours it is located under the sink).  It is the same short hose that is used when using rv antifreeze to winterize the whole system.

BEFORE turning pressure on, open the 3 way valve and OPEN one hot or cold faucet.  Turn pressure on and leave your H or C open until only air comes out, at this point open a 2nd valve to repeat this process and then close the first.  Repeat this process, always leaving one valve open until you get to all of them including your Thetford toilet.  Total process takes just under 2 minutes on a 177 going through each valve 2 times.  When complete remove your air gun from the pigtail and remember to turn your 3 way valve back to the original position otherwise come next spring you are going to wonder why your pump doesn't move water.  Ask me how I know.

When complete a total of 16 oz. rv antifreeze is used for the 2 sink and 1 shower drain as well as a small amount for the top of the toilet to keep the seal moist throughout the winter. 

Just to double check when completed you may want to unscrew your low point drains once again to verify lines are dry (you may have a few drops of water left) and unscrew the plastic bowl that is attached to the water pump for the same reason.  I did this the first couple years but finding only a drop or two left both times, no longer do that step.  Location northern Michigan.

First year did the traditional 2 gallons antifreeze through all lines.  Yes, it worked but was unhappy with the nasty antifreeze taste and went through a few mixtures of white vinegar and lemon juice to rid the lines of the taste.  Since then it has been compressed air only with no negative results.  Good luck.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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albikes50 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 8:49am
jato/Jim
Do you not hook the air hose to the city water supply line with the blow out adapter?  YOu only use the pigtail?  Do air flow through the water pump, or do you need to turn it on?  Also, have you have any trouble with using air to clear out your toilet valve and if so, is there a certain procedure you use to make sure all the water is out of the toilet valve.  Thanks for any advice.
Al
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 6:25pm
Al,

I have only used the city water supply line once in 10 years of ownership of our 177.  That was the first year and that was the only year I used the 'traditional' 2 gallons antifreeze in the whole system.

In that we almost always boondock and always just use the FW tank for drinking, showering, and everything else yes, only use the pigtail for blowing out the lines.  In your case if you have used the city water supply, yes use the blow out adapter to blow that part out as well but the majority of the process will be done via the pigtail. 

While blowing out, leave the pump off, the air pressure will clear pump of water.  If you have doubts, I did the first year doing this, then unscrew the plastic bowl on the end of the pump (there is a screen inside to catch debris) and see how much water is in it.  First year I did this, I counted 2 drops of water that were in the bowl, obviously not enough to freeze and cause any damage.

Toilet, as stated before,  go through all outlets twice.  Toilet is no different from any other outlet,  keep open until all you see/hear is air without any mist - you will be good.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 9:09pm
Jim
Thanks for getting back to me.  
Great info..  Is there some kind of a check valve at the city hookup so when you are using the pump, water isn't pumped out the city outlet plug?  Doesn't that portion of line still get water from the pump even if you never hook on to city water?    Do you have a special fitting for the pigtail to attach to your air hose, or do you just use the air gun nozzle?  Also, do you have a way of draining the hose back from the 3 way valve back to the fresh water holding tank or does that just gravity drains back?  If it would be easier for you to explain over the phone, you are welcome to call me at 515-783-8655.  I am retired, so available most anytime between 9 am and 8 pm Central standard time.  Thanks again.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 7:29am
Will call you this morning.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 8:23am
That would be great.  Thanks.  Al
Al M.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2021 at 8:44am
Jim
I don't know if you got my last text yesterday.  We are going to have to pass on the R-Pod rally as that is the same weekend my daughter is doing her first 1/2 Iron Man here in DM.. Tell Diane thanks for the invite. That really sounded like a lot of fun and I have wanted to camp in Michigan as it looks like there are a lot of nice parks.

Just one other question.  What did you say moving the bi metal switch will do closer to the cooling stack; make the refrig. work better?  

Really enjoyed talking on the phone yesterday.  I can't believe of all the people on the forum I could have reached out to, your the one that likes to bike and was a golf Supt..  What a small world.  Again, thanks for all sharing your expertise.
Al MacRae
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