New 172 Owner

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   Thanks for the info.   
On my rig, the gopower sticker was located on the upper cabinet next to the awning switch.  I looked behind the sticker and I see no obvious wires for connecting to the roof panels.  I then looked behind an access panel next to the bed night stand.  I see two wires that are not connected to anything.  Looks like they might be the wires for the solar controller.  They are wago 221 connectors on the end of the wires.    Does that sound like the right type of connectors to connect the solar controller to.

Also, which model of controller/panels did you go with?

Tom 

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kennedto100 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 17 Sep 2020 Online Status: Offline Posts: 8	Topic: New 172 Owner Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 12:20pm
	Thanks for the info. On my rig, the gopower sticker was located on the upper cabinet next to the awning switch. I looked behind the sticker and I see no obvious wires for connecting to the roof panels. I then looked behind an access panel next to the bed night stand. I see two wires that are not connected to anything. Looks like they might be the wires for the solar controller. They are wago 221 connectors on the end of the wires. Does that sound like the right type of connectors to connect the solar controller to. Also, which model of controller/panels did you go with? Tom

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 1:16pm
	The so-called “flexible” solar modules are not a wise long term investment. Solar cells are rigid crystalline wafers so will eventually fracture when subjected to flexing. Also, the plastic top surface of that type of module is soft so subject to hail damage and scratching. Get a standard glass surface module, in the long run you will be happier. Look at the warranties, glass ones are 20 plus years, “flexible” ones are a few years at most. Also, modules mounted directly to the roof will run hot, reducing solar performance and increasing heatin the trailer. And if a solar cell hot spot develops (which happens when a cell gets a fracture) you can get a burn spot on the module and trailer roof. I was a solar module designer for many years and manufactured both types.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

kennedto100 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 17 Sep 2020 Online Status: Offline Posts: 8	Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 1:20pm
	offgrid Thanks for the info. Are you saying I should not mount any panel to roof, or only mount glass panels to roof? Tom

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 2:45pm
	Good question. Glass modules have aluminum frames so even flush on the roof the top surface will be stood off about 1.5 to 2 inches. That will keep the rpod roof cooler but won't do a lot for the solar module. Creating an air gap between the frame and the roof to allow airflow will, even a half an inch is helpful. Re portable vs RF roof mounts, that is a personal choice. Pros for portables: You can often place them in the sun while you are camped in the shade You can tilt them south or even move them over the course of the day to improve performance No holes ore adhesives on the roof Cons for portables: Something else to set up and take down Storage while on the road Theft concerns If you can't decide you can do both
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

CamFrye Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 09 Jun 2020 Location: Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 6	Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 3:50pm
	I'm not familiar with the 192, but what you;re describing is different than what I had. On my 172, the wiring was located behind the sticker, which, if you enter the camper through the door and immediately turn 90 degrees to the left, you would be looking right at the sticker. The sticker was on the side wall of the overhead cabinet above the sink. On the 192, it looks like that similar location would be on the upper cabinet over the dinette? That cabinet is located directly under the MC-4 connector port mounted on the roof. When I opened the cabinet, there was a partition on the left side (again, right behind the GoPower sticker) that I needed to remove by unscrewing the base trim. Once removed, there was a loop of wiring consisting of one yellow and one brown wire (12 gauge if I remember correctly), and I could follow the wire coming straight out of the underside of the MC-4 port in the roof (Edited to add:), looping in the cabinet and then exiting the cabinet into the roof toward the center of the trailer.Those wires were what I cut and installed the controller to. The partition I removed was a flimsy little partition (something between cardboard and fiberboard). Once I looked at the inside of the cabinet closely, it was clear that it was "hiding" something, and it was not secured very well. There were no connectors. I cut the wire and installed the controller "in line" in those wires. I have a 160 watt semi flexible panel with an MPPT controller and I can't remember if it's a 15 or 20 amp. I got them both from Overland solar. They have a good track record and reputation, and were very helpful. They also offer a 20 year warranty on their solar cells.
	2020 R Pod 172 2019 Subaru Ascent